Hard starting Stihl 029

[JimRB]

I have a Stihl hedge trimmer that was doing the same thing. I think I had already done the fuel lines. A carb kit with a new diaphragm fixed it like Locoweed said. You could see/feel how dried out and stiff the old diaphragm was when you had a new supple one side by side. Hard to pull can partly be because you have no explosions to help with the pulling. 4 Stihls that all start in 3-4 pulls when they have good diaphragms. Same for the Echo and Huskavarna.

On another note my Mom commented that her 2 cycle Toro was hard to start. I decarboned the muffler and noticed her easy start port was clogged up. I cleaned that up and now she says it is ok. Mom is 84. I don't know how she can pull fast enough to get that mower started.

 

[yomax4]

I've 4 Stihls. 088, 660, 660, 021. When not warmed up all of them take three pulls at full choke and then two pulls at half choke.

I would sure like to take that 088 for a spin. Even the 660. Monster saws for sure.

 

[mjcountrybumpkin]

I have. Husky 268xp and I had a similar starting issue. Seemed like it had plenty of compression , checked it with a gauge and it only had 90 lbs. took of the jug and the ring was marred into the piston.
I worked the ring loose took it out and smoothed everything up. Put it back together with a little oil on cylinder wall. Checked compression and it is now at 165, a little low but it fires first pull every time now.
Engine checklist:
First - compression
Second- spark
Third- fuel


Good luck

 

[ccsial]

With arthritis in my hands, I need a solution or an easier starting saw.

Suggestions?

Thanks

I have the same problem with my hands. I heat with wood so I cut a lot. I'm almost 69 now. I recently got a MS260 with elastostart. That works very nice. It takes out those resistance pulses that really hurt my hand. My 190TCE is extremely easy to pull too. It is geared down a bit. The new saws from Stihl are getting easier to pull. It's fathers day.

 

[RobertN]

In addition to the diaphragm, I would also check the fuel line, and the impulse line.

My Dad had a saw where that easy to see part of the fuel line looked fine. Where you could not see, was mushy and rotting. The impulse line can crack and leak too. No impulse, no diaphragm movement. The impulse line goes to the crankcase; two strokes build pressure in crank case to push gas mixture thru; that pressure pulse is what causes the diaphragm to move, in turn pumping gas.

With the gas that is out nowadays, sometimes it is easiest to just replace them all if you are having a problem...

 

[TomSeller]

Good point, I always give my saws sharp, fast pulls. The other starting options on certain Stihl saws would be good for those with arthritis.

 

[yomax4]

In addition to the diaphragm, I would also check the fuel line, and the impulse line.

My Dad had a saw where that easy to see part of the fuel line looked fine. Where you could not see, was mushy and rotting. The impulse line can crack and leak too. No impulse, no diaphragm movement. The impulse line goes to the crankcase; two strokes build pressure in crank case to push gas mixture thru; that pressure pulse is what causes the diaphragm to move, in turn pumping gas
With the gas that is out nowadays, sometimes it is easiest to just replace them all if you are having a problem...

I have never changed the impulse lines on any of my stihl saws. I'll put them on my list..