Hard starting Stihl 029

[Pilot]

I use only ethanol free gas, mixed with Stihl oil. Full choke, pull, pull, pull, it's hard to pull, but after a dozen pulls it gets easier, A few more pulls, go to half choke, pull a few more times, it usually then starts & runs fine. No clouds of smoke when it starts. Sometimes I give up, check the plug, it's dry. After running, if I shut it down, it starts right up first pull.

It's been to 3 shops, no solution.

With arthritis in my hands, I need a solution or an easier starting saw.

Suggestions?

Thanks

 

[94BULLITT]

Has the saw been used a lot?

 

[Coyote machine]

I use only ethanol free gas, mixed with Stihl oil. Full choke, pull, pull, pull, it's hard to pull, but after a dozen pulls it gets easier, A few more pulls, go to half choke, pull a few more times, it usually then starts & runs fine. No clouds of smoke when it starts. Sometimes I give up, check the plug, it's dry. After running, if I shut it down, it starts right up first pull.

It's been to 3 shops, no solution.

With arthritis in my hands, I need a solution or an easier starting saw.

Suggestions?

Thanks

You clue is above in your text: red for emphasis~ fuel delivery problem. You seem to have spark- you also need fuel delivery. With both, and good compression saw should start no problem.
Try someone who actually knows how to fix Stihl saws- ask the local tree guys who they use.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

So have they changed the fuel tank filter? What does the air filter look like? Look for a soft fuel line as well or even cracked fuel line.

 

[Locoweed]

I'd put a new diaphragm in it.

 

[94BULLITT]

Did you guys notice he said it is hard to pull?

Sent from my GT-P3113 using TractorByNet

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Yes I saw the hard to pull part he is getting it started though. Hard to pull could be recoil starter gummed up

 

[94BULLITT]

I had a leaf blower one time that was wore out and it was hard to crank or it would lock up when it was running. You had to take the side cover off and turn it backwards to free it up. I think the crank was moving on it and binding. I hope his saw does not have a similar problem. I guess he should take the recoil off and make sure it is free and working properly.

Sent from my GT-P3113 using TractorByNet

 

[yomax4]

If the carb don't pull up gas, Hard to start. It will start after 10 pulls but a new diaphragm will take it back to 3 pulls. I only say this because I just did it. I have an 034 that runs strong and has a ton of snort but started hard,. 8-9 pulls. re-did the diaphragm in the carb and she is a 3 pull unit now. Did it to my 044 the next day..same results.

 

[newbury]

If the carb don't pull up gas, Hard to start. It will start after 10 pulls but a new diaphragm will take it back to 3 pulls. I only say this because I just did it. I have an 034 that runs strong and has a ton of snort but started hard,. 8-9 pulls. re-did the diaphragm in the carb and she is a 3 pull unit now. Did it to my 044 the next day..same results.

I've 4 Stihls. 088, 660, 660, 021. When not warmed up all of them take three pulls at full choke and then two pulls at half choke.

 

[JimRB]

I have a Stihl hedge trimmer that was doing the same thing. I think I had already done the fuel lines. A carb kit with a new diaphragm fixed it like Locoweed said. You could see/feel how dried out and stiff the old diaphragm was when you had a new supple one side by side. Hard to pull can partly be because you have no explosions to help with the pulling. 4 Stihls that all start in 3-4 pulls when they have good diaphragms. Same for the Echo and Huskavarna.

On another note my Mom commented that her 2 cycle Toro was hard to start. I decarboned the muffler and noticed her easy start port was clogged up. I cleaned that up and now she says it is ok. Mom is 84. I don't know how she can pull fast enough to get that mower started.

 

[yomax4]

I've 4 Stihls. 088, 660, 660, 021. When not warmed up all of them take three pulls at full choke and then two pulls at half choke.

I would sure like to take that 088 for a spin. Even the 660. Monster saws for sure.

 

[mjcountrybumpkin]

I have. Husky 268xp and I had a similar starting issue. Seemed like it had plenty of compression , checked it with a gauge and it only had 90 lbs. took of the jug and the ring was marred into the piston.
I worked the ring loose took it out and smoothed everything up. Put it back together with a little oil on cylinder wall. Checked compression and it is now at 165, a little low but it fires first pull every time now.
Engine checklist:
First - compression
Second- spark
Third- fuel


Good luck

 

[ccsial]

With arthritis in my hands, I need a solution or an easier starting saw.

Suggestions?

Thanks

I have the same problem with my hands. I heat with wood so I cut a lot. I'm almost 69 now. I recently got a MS260 with elastostart. That works very nice. It takes out those resistance pulses that really hurt my hand. My 190TCE is extremely easy to pull too. It is geared down a bit. The new saws from Stihl are getting easier to pull. It's fathers day.

 

[RobertN]

In addition to the diaphragm, I would also check the fuel line, and the impulse line.

My Dad had a saw where that easy to see part of the fuel line looked fine. Where you could not see, was mushy and rotting. The impulse line can crack and leak too. No impulse, no diaphragm movement. The impulse line goes to the crankcase; two strokes build pressure in crank case to push gas mixture thru; that pressure pulse is what causes the diaphragm to move, in turn pumping gas.

With the gas that is out nowadays, sometimes it is easiest to just replace them all if you are having a problem...

 

[TomSeller]

Good point, I always give my saws sharp, fast pulls. The other starting options on certain Stihl saws would be good for those with arthritis.

 

[yomax4]

In addition to the diaphragm, I would also check the fuel line, and the impulse line.

My Dad had a saw where that easy to see part of the fuel line looked fine. Where you could not see, was mushy and rotting. The impulse line can crack and leak too. No impulse, no diaphragm movement. The impulse line goes to the crankcase; two strokes build pressure in crank case to push gas mixture thru; that pressure pulse is what causes the diaphragm to move, in turn pumping gas
With the gas that is out nowadays, sometimes it is easiest to just replace them all if you are having a problem...

I have never changed the impulse lines on any of my stihl saws. I'll put them on my list..