Guages Work - Lights Do Not

[KoonHunter51]

10:35 pm here & l have been on this light deal over 4 hours
2003 Farm Pro 2430 All the guages work, battery charges, starts great, but no lights
The fuse box has 10 fuses 5 over 5
5 lower fuses all will light up my tester
Upper 5 fuses have no power
EDIT; Upper 5 fuses are dummy, no wiring connected
Light switches are the older pull type, l think they are good except the 3-way toggle for signal, horn works
I did find the flasher had been cut open/mutilated for some reason ? (See Pic)
Wiring diagram l have is not good, & does not show readable fuse connections
Pictures of Fuse Box, ground point (Under Dash) & heat rail wire
The dummy side of the fuse box must have been for other/add-ons electrical uses
I first thought prior wiring guru had grounded wrong, but green wire goes to tach & it works
Edit; As you can see only one wire (3 contacts, 1 wire) to a glow plug, does rail suffice for contact to other 2 glow plugs ? If needed, I'll remove rail & clean it & hook up wire to 3 instead of one
(Can't get knurled nut off middle glow plug, whole stem is screwing out ?)
Ignition may be my problem, as it looks like a wire has been cut coming from switch
As for the flasher, will any 12v flasher work or is it Chinese/Jinma specific
I have several flashers here & even found a 12/14v toggle (On/Off/On)
The 2 pull switches seem to be fine but I have no idea what sequence does what
Both are 3-way (Off/On/On)
I will start tracing wires tomorrow

David

 

[Affordable]

Jump the light switch wires around the switch to see if its the switch or not, also one of the old pull type switchs has a glass fuse on it ? Did you check that ?

https://affordabletractorsalesco.co...picid=1264&category=ZL-20&sub_category=&scid=

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[KoonHunter51]

Thanks Tommy,
Fuse in switch is not blown. Both pull switches are 3 stage off/on/on
I'm gonna try to find wire going to fuse box to see if it's spliced or if 2 wires go to box.
EDIT; 1 Power wire to fuse box, top fuses are dummy
Bottom of fuse box has power;
Top of fuse box (Lights) is dead EDIT; Not lights, these top 5 fuses are dummy or spares, no wire connected
I have found a couple loose wires under dash & I will trace them down
David

 

[greg_g]

Individual gauges? or cluster gauge?

//greg//

 

[KoonHunter51]

Individual Gauges, Lights are pull-type or toggle
I was thinking about switching the light switches to the newer rocker panel, but ?

 

[Rich Waugh]

If you want/need to replace your switches, I would not recommend going to the rocker type - they are generally not very weatherproof at all. If I was going to upgrade my switches I'd go with good Cole-Hersee marine toggle switches. They definitely cost more but they hold up to the elements ten times better.

 

[s219]

If you want/need to replace your switches, I would not recommend going to the rocker type - they are generally not very weatherproof at all. If I was going to upgrade my switches I'd go with good Cole-Hersee marine toggle switches. They definitely cost more but they hold up to the elements ten times better.

I've had good luck with marine rockers so far. They seem to have a rubber membrane layered between the rocker and the guts.

 

[KoonHunter51]

Thanks about the info on marine switches.
I do nor foresee any night use with the tractor, but I think in NC you have to have lights on farm vehicles if on road.

I did find out the top 5 fuses in the box are just dummies or spares.
There are no wires connected to them
So, I'm starting at the battery & cleaning & tightening all the contacts
Negative cable at battery is in bad condition, I'll replace
David

 

[KoonHunter51]

Rusted Knurl Nut on middle glow plug will not turn, complete stem is screwing out
Check edits on first post
Pictures added
David

 

[greg_g]

Before installing new negative cable, grind down to bare metal where it bolts to the frame. Get a tube of dielectric silicone grease and slather it on the freshly cleaned metal, both sides of the cable lug, then over the top once it's bolted in place. That will stave off rust and corrosion. The grease should skin over in 24 hours, so - given time to cure - there should be no problem with dirt/chaff/etc sticking there.

I don't recognize those two bent things in the first post. Glow plugs should come out like really skinny spark plugs. Take care to ensure little copper crush washer comes out too. You'll get new ones with new GPs, and you don't want a new washer on top of an old one.

//greg//

 

[KoonHunter51]

greg_g; I don't recognize those two bent things in the first post.

That silver thing is the flasher someone mutilated
The knurl finger nut will not come off the GP in middle
A local guy is gonna give me 2 new GP
I see some pics with just 1 wire at GP,

Voltage Regulator works, but it was not mounted, just laying loose
Wires touched engine & some melted occurred
Will replace & fix wires
David

 

[greg_g]

Ok, strange setup. Ordinarily I'd expect either a copper bus bar connecting all three, or those green jumper wires. There's no reason whatsoever for all those jumper ends to be attached to a single point. Anyway, I'd tackle the hex head underneath the black strap with a crows foot wrench. But take the other two GPs out first, then use the crows foot to unscrew the last GP from the head - black bar and all.

//greg//

 

[KoonHunter51]

That bus bar is there, just looks blended in
I did not test the GP, but starting was not a problem
Probably will not replace at this time
Was going to hook wire to each GP, not sure I need to

 

[greg_g]

I would. The black on that bar is paint, which makes a pretty good insulator. I can pretty much guarantee that right now the GPs and not getting full battery voltage. From the front connect one wire between cylinder 1 and cylinder 2, connect another short wire between cylinder 2 and cylinder 3. Connect the long wire coming from the dash to cylinder 3. Daisy chain. Understand though that this method is series wiring. If any one of the green wires breaks, it isolates the GP or GPs on the opposite side. They get no juice. But given that you have the black buss bar lowers the concern level. Bus bar makes it a series-parallel circuit - and that's a good thing.

//greg//

 

[KoonHunter51]

When I first saw the wires, I thought only 1 GP was hooked up, but I found the bus/connect bar
I did get the GP out &, tapped & reinserted the stem, it just screwed in
The green wire has 3 connects, so I just hooked up the wire at each GP
Cleaned all the contacts, some diaelectric grease & all is well
David

 

[greg_g]

you didn't mention the little copper crush washers

//greg//

 

[KoonHunter51]

you didn't mention the little copper crush washers

//greg//

No copper washers
3 steel washers, 2 flat & 1 lock washer
The bus bar is aluminum
David

 

[greg_g]

Ok, that's new. But more importantly, did you get the old washers out before installing the new stuff?

//greg//

 

[KoonHunter51]

I used all new washers on the GP, they just sit on top of a small nut that goes straight to the top of the GP
The middle glow plug was the one that the knurl nut was froze & the little threaded stem screwed out of the GP
I tapped the threads,(Just the little threaded stem, the complete GP came out easy) & put it back in the GP
I have 3 new GP here but the old ones looked so good I did not switch,
& this tractor starts easy, quick, & smooth
David

 

[greg_g]

Ok. But FYI, you can't judge the condition of a GP visually, it's a matter of electrical resistance. As they grow older, the resistance changes. As the resistance changes, the amount of heat they can throw decreases. They can also short out, which doesn't do your electrical system any favors. Not my tractor, and I suspect you may change your mind about this next winter. So as long as you have 3 new ones for an 11 year old tractor - and the weather is nice - I strongly suggest you install them. Just make sure that once the old ones come out, all the washers come out as well.

//greg//