Guages Work - Lights Do Not

[KoonHunter51]

greg_g; I don't recognize those two bent things in the first post.

That silver thing is the flasher someone mutilated
The knurl finger nut will not come off the GP in middle
A local guy is gonna give me 2 new GP
I see some pics with just 1 wire at GP,

Voltage Regulator works, but it was not mounted, just laying loose
Wires touched engine & some melted occurred
Will replace & fix wires
David

 

[greg_g]

Ok, strange setup. Ordinarily I'd expect either a copper bus bar connecting all three, or those green jumper wires. There's no reason whatsoever for all those jumper ends to be attached to a single point. Anyway, I'd tackle the hex head underneath the black strap with a crows foot wrench. But take the other two GPs out first, then use the crows foot to unscrew the last GP from the head - black bar and all.

//greg//

 

[KoonHunter51]

That bus bar is there, just looks blended in
I did not test the GP, but starting was not a problem
Probably will not replace at this time
Was going to hook wire to each GP, not sure I need to

 

[greg_g]

I would. The black on that bar is paint, which makes a pretty good insulator. I can pretty much guarantee that right now the GPs and not getting full battery voltage. From the front connect one wire between cylinder 1 and cylinder 2, connect another short wire between cylinder 2 and cylinder 3. Connect the long wire coming from the dash to cylinder 3. Daisy chain. Understand though that this method is series wiring. If any one of the green wires breaks, it isolates the GP or GPs on the opposite side. They get no juice. But given that you have the black buss bar lowers the concern level. Bus bar makes it a series-parallel circuit - and that's a good thing.

//greg//

 

[KoonHunter51]

When I first saw the wires, I thought only 1 GP was hooked up, but I found the bus/connect bar
I did get the GP out &, tapped & reinserted the stem, it just screwed in
The green wire has 3 connects, so I just hooked up the wire at each GP
Cleaned all the contacts, some diaelectric grease & all is well
David

 

[greg_g]

you didn't mention the little copper crush washers

//greg//

 

[KoonHunter51]

you didn't mention the little copper crush washers

//greg//

No copper washers
3 steel washers, 2 flat & 1 lock washer
The bus bar is aluminum
David

 

[greg_g]

Ok, that's new. But more importantly, did you get the old washers out before installing the new stuff?

//greg//

 

[KoonHunter51]

I used all new washers on the GP, they just sit on top of a small nut that goes straight to the top of the GP
The middle glow plug was the one that the knurl nut was froze & the little threaded stem screwed out of the GP
I tapped the threads,(Just the little threaded stem, the complete GP came out easy) & put it back in the GP
I have 3 new GP here but the old ones looked so good I did not switch,
& this tractor starts easy, quick, & smooth
David

 

[greg_g]

Ok. But FYI, you can't judge the condition of a GP visually, it's a matter of electrical resistance. As they grow older, the resistance changes. As the resistance changes, the amount of heat they can throw decreases. They can also short out, which doesn't do your electrical system any favors. Not my tractor, and I suspect you may change your mind about this next winter. So as long as you have 3 new ones for an 11 year old tractor - and the weather is nice - I strongly suggest you install them. Just make sure that once the old ones come out, all the washers come out as well.

//greg//