Green Horn

[Z-Michigan]

It sounds like you're adding the tow vehicle GVWR to the trailer GVWR to get 26,000. My understanding is that instead you look only at the rated GCWR for the tow vehicle. So if the tow vehicle has a 15,000 GVWR and a 25,000 GCWR, you would still be legal pulling a trailer with a GVWR of 15,000. Might be worth searching the towing forums as I'm sure this topic has been addressed before.

 

[Appygirl]

Hi there,
I took a look and I believe my trailer's weight is 15210, manual read it can be 15400 the GCWR is 22,000. So I believe I'm okay, close but okay.
I'm no speed demon especially with live cargo. One thing I read bit to late was that your not suppose to tow with a new truck for 500 miles. Ooops!
At least that's what the manual said. Anyways, what's done is done.

 

[Spiveyman]

It sounds like you're adding the tow vehicle GVWR to the trailer GVWR to get 26,000. My understanding is that instead you look only at the rated GCWR for the tow vehicle. So if the tow vehicle has a 15,000 GVWR and a 25,000 GCWR, you would still be legal pulling a trailer with a GVWR of 15,000. Might be worth searching the towing forums as I'm sure this topic has been addressed before.

If you'll check out this thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/construction-equipment/105204-can-i-legally-tow-20-a.html
They do a pretty thorough job of covering it, and in this thread they are combining the truck and trailer capacity to get the 26K. I can't really defend that since they aren't my posts, but there seems to be consensus. Either way though I think Appygirl is safe there.

 

[Spiveyman]

Hi there,
I took a look and I believe my trailer's weight is 15210, manual read it can be 15400 the GCWR is 22,000. So I believe I'm okay, close but okay.
I'm no speed demon especially with live cargo. One thing I read bit to late was that your not suppose to tow with a new truck for 500 miles. Ooops!
At least that's what the manual said. Anyways, what's done is done.

It's also a good idea to change the oil a couple of times in that first 500 miles. The engine is wearing in and you'll get more metal shavaings and such in your oil while that is happening.

It's probably not a big deal though. I doubt you'll kill your truck. It's not like you hauled stuff all over the place in OD or anything. I did that on my first truck many years ago. A $1800 transmission helped me remember to always disconnect the OD when I tow!!!

 

[civesnedfield]

Our hay is about 95% alfalfa. First cutting is ok for horses, richer cuttings not a great idea if you don't have Kentucky Derby winners in your barn (and we don't). That's why we planted a field of grass hay this year, but unfortunately it won't be producing til next year. Now I just need to find someone to buy 10-15 round bales of 3rd cutting alfalfa. Anyone know a tiny scale dairy farm south of Lansing?

Back on point... when transporting round bales, I have the bottom of the bale not more than 12" above ground level, and often lower. You need to keep bales as low as possible for stability. I haven't yet used a 3pt spear (though I own one - just haven't used it yet!) but I expect it will lift maybe 1 to 2' off the ground at most. I think a 3ph can safely lift whatever it's rated for without straining the tractor, though some front end weight may be needed - if you have a FEL that will usually be enough counterbalance weight.



Since it sounds like you have a good hay supplier - have you found out what he has to offer? If it's going to be hard to buy the round bales you want anyway, then problem solved! I would still get something big enough to move rounds on the 3ph (like in case you need hay in March and only rounds are for sale), but that's not as big as needed to move them on FEL.

Z if you already have a 3 PT spear why are you messing around with counterwieghts and such. Put the spear on the back and get a bale on the thing now you have your counterwieght. Now drive foward and stick the FEL spear into a bale. I use this same method when loading bales in the field. As far as height when transporting keep the FEL as low as possible. The 3PH I run up to the top. If you are doing a lot of bale moving I would adjust the tire widths as far out as you can go. This will add a lot of stability to the machime. With a 5105 you should be able to handle one on the front and one on the back without a problem. Heck there's times when I use a bale on the back for a counterwieght when nothing eles is handy.

 

[Z-Michigan]

Z if you already have a 3 PT spear why are you messing around with counterwieghts and such. Put the spear on the back and get a bale on the thing now you have your counterwieght.

Thanks. I know this method. I just haven't used it yet because:
1) When first cutting was baled, we didn't have rear spear yet. It came in exactly one day after I had moved all of first cutting with FEL. I used my disc as a counterweight and from a weight perspective it was fine (of course it was huge and clumsy size-wise).
2) Second cutting was pretty sparse due to drought (only 10 rounds total!) and I had a different implement on the 3pt that I didn't feel like removing to put a spear on and then replacing in an hour or two.

Third cutting is looking better since we finally got some rain so I will probably have reason to use both spears when it's baled. Next year when second hayfield is producing I will hopefully be getting 30+ rounds in first cutting and 20+ later cuttings so I'll definitely be happy to have two spears. No, the 5105 doesn't strain at all moving this much weight, though it does work best moving it slowly.

 

[civesnedfield]

Thanks. I know this method. I just haven't used it yet because:
1) When first cutting was baled, we didn't have rear spear yet. It came in exactly one day after I had moved all of first cutting with FEL. I used my disc as a counterweight and from a weight perspective it was fine (of course it was huge and clumsy size-wise).
2) Second cutting was pretty sparse due to drought (only 10 rounds total!) and I had a different implement on the 3pt that I didn't feel like removing to put a spear on and then replacing in an hour or two.

Third cutting is looking better since we finally got some rain so I will probably have reason to use both spears when it's baled. Next year when second hayfield is producing I will hopefully be getting 30+ rounds in first cutting and 20+ later cuttings so I'll definitely be happy to have two spears. No, the 5105 doesn't strain at all moving this much weight, though it does work best moving it slowly.

Yea I didn't think it would have any problems. We are just starting second crop this week. I have a buddy that owns a dairy farm. The bales we are doing are baled green and wrapped, so they weigh a bit more that dry bales. First crop we got about 275 bales and we are hoping for at least 150 second crop.

 

[Appygirl]

Hi GUys,
At this point I am thinking to give up on the round bales and buy some more hay feeders to throw the extra hay out in the winter. So in saying that, I found a used Kubota L3130 hst, ag tires loaded, loader, and 130 hours. It was used by on older gentleman that is moving back to the city. I can get it for 16000 and can be delivered. I would like to believe the dealer is being up front about everything. I was thinking of paying 150 dollar to have them go over it in detail before buying it out right. The dealer said it was really clean and was well taken care of; I still need to go see it. I don't think there is any warranty involved either.
I did get a pricing for the L3240 which replaced the 3130 from what I've been told for 19,300 w/ag tires filled, LA 724 and warranty.
So I could save 3 grand and get attachments, and extra hay feeders. Oh I guess I would be saving more then that, because I would technically be buying it from a private owner and no tax so maybe add another 1000 to the savings to make it 4K.
Also it may be rumor I don't know for sure, but would the hst on the 3240 be improved over the 3130? I"m a little hung up on the warranty thing too.

Ah, decisions, decisions!!

 

[Spiveyman]

Appygirl,
Howdy and welcome back. I'm really not that familiar with the orange machines, so sorry that I can't help you out there, however I think you are really on the right track. Dave Ramsey would be proud of you! So are you buying this from a dealer who's selling it on consignment or something? It would be better if you could work with the older gentleman directly, but that's probably not the case. 130 hours isn't even broken in yet!

Lastly, y'all have to pay tax on a tractor used for ag purposes up there?!?!? Surely not! In KY you don't pay taxes on anything used for ag. Good luck with it, I'm sure you are anxious. I'm supposed to be getting my tractor back tomorrow with a new FEL and box blade!!! Gonna have fun playing in the dirt tomorrow. hee hee

 

[Z-Michigan]

Welcome back too! Been wondering what your shopping is up to.

The used L3130 is a very reasonable choice, but the price sounds a little high. There may be new ones left over that you could pick up for $18k or less, brand new with warranty, same loader, tires, etc. If you can get it to $15k or less it starts sounding like a deal. As of a month or two ago Williams Farm Equipment in Charlotte had a number of Lxx30's on the lot waiting to be sold, including one or two L3130's. They've been stickered at something like $18,900 since last winter, and I have to think that if they're still on the lot they would be VERY interested in selling them. Williams is a pretty big operation and I would imagine they could deliver up to you. I didn't buy my tractor there but I did shop them and I have bought an implement there - they've been quite good to deal with.

The HST on the Lxx40 series is improved, but the HST on the Lxx30 series works just fine. The most significant difference, IMHO, is the pedal design. There are a number of technical "upgrades" on the 40's but, again IMHO, they are neato features rather than really necessary or useful.

Of course I like warranties and new stuff and it's easy to spend other people's money.

Michigan tax law is pretty clear - ag, forestry and plant nursery use is exempt from sales tax, anything else is taxable. My understanding is that you are actively breeding horses for profit. That is an agricultural use and you should be able to legitimately claim the sales tax exemption. Of course this advice is worth what you paid for it. Do note that there is no tax exemption for used equipment, so whether you pay sales tax or not depends on your ag exemption, if it's appropriate, and not which tractor you buy.

 

[Appygirl]

Thank you, I was gone trail riding for 8 days, camped in 4 places as we headed east. It was fantastic!! Almost made it to Lake Huron but ran out of time.

Z that is good to know about the tax exempt and will check into Williams.

I got a phone call from a dealer that I had visited while I was gone. HUbby answered it, the guy identified himself and asked if he knew anything about me shopping for a tractor . Too funny! Hubby said I do know about it and she is still shopping, but right now she is on a trail ride. No secrets here!

 

[Appygirl]

HI there, a couple of questions folks.

1. In comparing the MF1540 and Kubota L3940 I found a slight difference in the wheel base of 5 inches, Kubota being wider. Is that enough difference to be significant in stability?

2. The pto on the Kubota has a greater flow of 9.8 compared to 9.1 for implements. Again, is the difference enough to make a difference in performance?

Thanks

 

[Z-Michigan]

Wheelbase is the length between the two axles, not width. I consider 5" pretty significant. It will make for a noticeably smoother ride.

The greater flow is hydraulic flow, yes? That's a moderate difference - not a whole lot. Important question is, do you have any plans for external hydraulic powered implements, like a power rake? If not, this doesn't matter. If you do, you may want more hydraulic flow than either one offers.

 

[Spiveyman]

Z-Michigan, I'm impressed that you can tell the difference between 5" inches of wheel base. Maybe my farm's too bumpy or something, or maybe it's because I go everywhere in 3-hi , but that wouldn't make a huge difference to me. It's not a passenger car, but then again I prefer a truck with stiffer springs. I'm weird that way.

I agree about the hydraulic flow. What implements are you considering that require it? Back hoe? If you know what you want to run that will help size the flow you need.

 

[Appygirl]

Thanks Z and Spiveyman. No plans for a back hoe. I will hope to remove old rotted stumps using the bucket. Getting close to purchase time and I can't wait to get out and get the paddocks and small pastures cleaned up!!

 

[canoetrpr]

Appygirl:

I think that either of those machines are good choices. I would strongly bias the choice to the one that feels better, has better dealer support etc.

Kubota's reliability and resale value is generally fantastic in CUTs not sure how this compares to the 15xx series Masseys.

 

[Spiveyman]

Howdy, no plans for a back hoe huh? Well.... whatever you do, don't read this thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/93187-best-way-remove-tree.html? hee hee

As a true TBN'er I have taken an oath to help my fellow TBN patriots spend their money as efficiently and completely as possible on all things tractor related!

Just kidding around with you. I read that thing and now have the most aweful urge for a back-hoe. (Thanks Eddie! )

So, taking out stumps with a FEL... you gonna' have a tooth bar for that thing? You'll need one. Most folks around here would probably tell you that a FEL isn't made for that kind of work, but at the very least you'll need a tooth bar.

 

[Appygirl]

Yeah you're funny! The stumps are not flat on the ground. I have a 2 track that goes to the back of my property and the stumps are on the left side kinda up on a burm(sp?), so I'll be just a tad under it. They are pretty rotted, I'll probably be able just to push them around.
Dam its cold and raining~burrr...54 degrees right now. When I do purchase tractor I'll be checking the weather site to make sure I'll be able to have fun for at least a few days.

 

[Spiveyman]

Hopefully that will work for you, but I am serious about the tooth bar. It makes a huge difference.

It's freezing here too today, barely got up to 80°.



I have a BIL in Michigan, everytime I fret the cold I can email him. He'll talk about riding his snowmobile to work and I feel all better.

 

[Z-Michigan]

I drove from Mackinaw City home today with stops in Harbor Springs, Petoskey and Traverse City. Freakish weather today. We stopped at the top of Arcadia Bluffs and the wind was like 30-40mph. Wow. Not to mention all the intense downpours.

Both are fine tractors. I guess I would lean toward the Kubota, if you've eliminated all options but the Kubota and MF, but either one should be fine. If the MF was a lot cheaper, I might get it instead.