Gooseneck, 5th Wheel, or Bumper pull?

[InlineDieselFan]

I had my trailer from before I bought the tractor, so I have used what I have. A 18' #12,000lb bumper pull type trailer. If I were to by a new trailer today it would be without a doubt a gooseneck.

With all of that said, if you are rarely towing the tractor, and will be getting the wood chips and going to the dump and such, a bumper pull may be the way to go.

Cheaper purchase price of the trailer.
Drop hitch and ball under $50.00.
Gooseneck set-up?? What about $1,000, input anybody?

You won't be able to put all of the implements and tractor on either trailer and go down the road. You would need a 36' gooseneck that our Toyota just will not do.

When I bought the 12k trailer it was only a bit more than the 10k trailer, so I would look at that route, but you are in Taxachussetts, so there may be a magic number that hurts you badly tax and license wise.

steve

 

[firemanpat2910]

Goose neck is not expensive (on the truck end) any more. There are several different types of hidden or removeable units to free up the truck bed. I have a bumper pull 3 axle 20' and my buddy has a 24 or 28' goose. There is not that much difference in backing ability. I will never have a 3 axle again. when backing with a heavy load you can see the tread coming off the 3rd tires. I have considered taking the wheels off that axle several times. I dont now if legal wise or tax wise 2 vs 3 axles makes a difference (mainly because neither of my trailers have tags) but it would be worth checking into before buying a new trailer. This are just my opinions and you experience will vary. Edited to add If you go with goose I highly recomend having a trailer plug installed in the truck bed. Trailer brakes arent worth a flip when the plug gets pulled out.

 

[MrJimi]

I want a 14,000 pound bumper pull 22 foot trailer. And this thread has me wondering lots!
I want a Dodge dually with a Cummins diesel and like I said, I am reading this thread real good.. and I am still wondering.
I am not crazy on paying for a 14,000 pound trailer and having to get a commercial driver's license that everyone here is talking about.. I have a license that Say's I can use over 26,000 pounds. Where does this-trailer is rated for 14,000 pounds come in? I am still under this 26,000 pound thing.
I have asked a few professionals and I get the same answer, I have been to Florida DOT and they were out to lunch ( for real ? )
And, yes, I have read all these postings about ya need a CDL to pull a ( over 10,000 pounds) trailer..
The over 10,000 trailer will weigh around 3,000 pounds empty. I should be able to pull this EMPTY with my 4 cylinder S-10 with no problems.
I hope this is "food for thought" for some of ya
And by the way, I would love the GN thing but it wont work with my stepvan.
Jim

 

[mlauk]

It's been 3 years, but the numbers I remember for a gooseneck were about $350 for a B&W gooseneck hitch and I think around $100 for a brake controller. The truck came with a RV plug on the back and wire harness for the brake controller so that might cost another $30. I installed it myself.

Jim, most states require a CDL when the GCWR of the truck and trailer are over 26,000 lbs.

 

[MrJimi]

But mlauk , I'm talking under 26,000 pounds for the both?
I will see what the other replies bring and I think I should start another thread asking this question. I do not want to hi-jack another person's thread at all
Thanks for the reply
Jim

 

[mlauk]

Jim, unless your state has a special rule, you don't need a CDL with a 14000lb trailer. The GVW rating for my Dodge 3/4 ton is 9000 lbs to give you an idea what the truck end is.

 

[George2615]

I bought my gooseneck hitch plate at the local TSC store for a little over a hundred bucks. It comes with the 2 5/16" ball welded on. Just need to drill holes through the bed for J-bolts to attach the plate to the truck frame. Brake controller was under a hundred at Walmart or most any auto parts. A class 5 frame mount hitch runs about the same and just bolts to the truck frame. A 5th wheel hitch of course is much more.

 

[Robbie Hegwood]

Great input on the trailer issues. Saw an interesting statement question about CDL/26,000 issue.Here n Georgia the DOT/tag office seems to follow the truck route of the truck itself not being over 25,999 lbs. and or air brakes. If this were not the case all these RV's driving diesel pushers would need CDL{which they should have driving something that big and heavy]but they do not. My personal situation, tag office issued my F-350 crew cab long bed 4x4 a tag that says 26000 on it but was told I do not need a CDL {doen't hurt that I have one its just we need concrete info on this issue. Also here in Georgia DOT has cracked down on trailer gvw and what people are pulling on them. Saftey issue around here. Last thing I'm testing this point daily pulling A 28' Triple axle goose w/RC100,mulching head,bucket,harley rake for a total trailer weight of 19040lbs confirmed at my works scales. keeping trailer brakes tight!!! good thread

 

[CATMAN]

My 2 cents. Whatever you choose, get the biggest axles you can get for that trailer lenght. Bigger axles come with bigger bearings and usually bigger or wider brake shoes. Think of this as your foundation of your house. I will always remember how may people I drive by on the interstate with axle/bearing problems and/or they also have overloaded their small trailers to the point where failure was going to happen sooner or later. I have build two trailers and used heavy axles but lighter leaf springs, because I knew I just wanted the sercurity of the added strenght. It is inexpensive at this time. I kinda think you are leaning this way anyways, so don't let a few hundred bucks cause you to make a sorry decision. One other item thing some people consider, if they have a 3/4 ton tow truck with 235/85R16 tires with 8 bolt rims, then they have looked at 6000 or 7000 lb axles(each) that use that same 8 bolt pattern just for the spare tire issue. (very small point; but I thought I would mention it.)

 

[MX5000]

Charlesaf3, It says your on Marthas Vinyard. Do you live there full time? The reason I mention it is, can you get a reg. plate for the tractor and drive it to where your going? MV isn't exactly the size of Texas. It's a little island. I know MA. is a little **** retentive (I grew up in Easton, MA), but not sure if you can put a plate on your tractor. In NH I got a construction plate for $25.00 or so and drive it on the road once in a while between job sites. There's also that whole insurance thing too (trailering or just driving your tractor there), just food for thought...

Howard
I do tow the tractor with a 2006 Ford F-350 with 6.0 turbo diesel on a bumper pull 25' trailer. I wish I bought the goose neck trailer instead.

 

[justanotherjoe]

Catman had a money saving point about having the trailer wheels and tires compatible with the tow vehicle. Compatible does not mean you have to use all the same tires, just that the rims and tire size are interchangable in a pinch.

 

[rback33]

Catman had a money saving point about having the trailer wheels and tires compatible with the tow vehicle. Compatible does not mean you have to use all the same tires, just that the rims and tire size are interchangable in a pinch.

Robbie,
The cut off for CDL is 26,000 lbs.. meaning 26,001 or more requires a CDL. Anything 10,001 or more is a commercial vehicle (if u are a business) and requires you have DOT registration, driver files, the whole shebang. The difference is you do not have to have CDL, DOT drug test, or mess with fuel taxes. DOT physical log book, everything else applies. But again, as long as you are NOT a business you are OK. Edited to add that the 26,001 or 10,001 mean GCWR... u put a trailer on the back and you are now a commercial vehicle if it is a company vehicle.

 

[Robbie Hegwood]

I hear ya. But here's the gray area. In Ga. they use those rules only for the truck. When I aquired my CDL the instuctor said the real deciding factor was air brakes and under 25999 lbs for the truck [1995]. Not combined weight. He said most trucks anywhere close to 26000 lbs had air brakes and you knew you had to have CDL. The Coke truck I drove was rated at 25999 lbs and had beefed up hyd. brakes to dodge the CDL issues. That's what we drove until they could scedule us to get CDL's. I also believe its become more of an issue these days because they didn't have 1 ton trucks rated at 18'000 lbs pull ratings that they have now. Side note Ford's web site says a 2008 F-450 that now comes with a regular bed like F-350 rated to pull are you ready...24,000 lbs. That's scary and unbelievable. To much truck is always a good thing, just making conversation. Good input though. Robbie

 

[mopacman]

A 20ft trailer is eazier to back up than a smaller trailer. You have to get your load centered on a bumper pull. A GN trailer is always heaver and you have too take wide corners. If I am traveling I use the lightest trailer that will handle the load to get better fuel milage.

 

[DavesTractor]

Jim, unless your state has a special rule, you don't need a CDL with a 14000lb trailer. The GVW rating for my Dodge 3/4 ton is 9000 lbs to give you an idea what the truck end is.

California is special. If you pull a trailer rated at over 10,000# gvwr you need a CDL. If over 40' in length, you need a MCP and a CA number. Some farm use, livestock trailers and RV exceptions apply.

BTW, and this is really special, if your pickup, like my 2006 Dodge dually (with factory pickup bed), is rated at over 11,500 gvwr, you are no longer a "pickup" in California. Technically you must go through the scales, etc. We pull a 20K gooseneck with our Dodge and have a CDL, MCP, CA number, EPN, terminal inspections, etc. This has been beat to death on other threads, but it appears California is much more strict on these rules.

Back to the subject at hand. The Toyota is a fine machine. If loaded reasonably with the proper hitch, it should have no problem pulling the B series Kubota. Now if you want to haul 4 of them at once, you'll need the Cummins, Powerstroke, or Duramax rig

I was in the Dominican Republic recently and saw quite a few medium duty older Toyota trucks. Probably 26,000 gvwr or so. Toyota knows how to make a real truck, we just don't see their commercial stuff here.

 

[BBB]

Let's not beat a dead horse to death. Remember this, If your "load" trailer and tractor outweight your vehicle, you can't hardly stop it. Even if you have brakes on the trailer, if it gets away from you you won't be able to get it back. Make sure you have enough vehicle to handle whatever you tow . Get a bigger truck if needed.

 

[uhftx]

BBB,

Not to start an argument what you say is correct except for the bigger truck comment.

The truck vs trailer weight is inversely proportional and very common with any 18wheeler. As well as my f350 dually and my 11000lb 5th wheel camper.

What you are saying is correct that if there is a brake failure on either of the units there is a definite problem and a momentary panic will prevail. Until the driver regains his composure and takes corrective measures.....

Safe travels

 

[rjkobbeman]

Something that I didn't see brought up regarding the gooseneck is weight over the truck's rear axle. With a gooseneck, the trailer's axles are farther rear of center than a conventional trailer. This adds more tongue weight.

I think a gooseneck is better than a conventional, but you do need to consider all issues.

I am also in the "the little Toyota is not safe to pull 10k lbs" camp.

I have lived through pulling too much trailer and jack-knifing it on the highway. Something people always forget is, just because you truck can pull it, doesn't mean it can "handle" it and stop it.

Anyway, back to the truck specs. You need to get get all of the specs:

GVWR -- this is the gross weight that the truck can/should carry. Include the tongue weight of the trailer in addition to the weight of the truck/passengers/cargo.
GCWR -- this is the combined weight of the truck and trailer and cargo. Include EVERYTHING.
GAWR -- this is the weight rating of your axle. Include everthing over your rear axle -- including the tongue weight of the trailer/cargo and the truck's weight over the axle... including cargo in the bed.

Ideally, you should not exceed ANY of those. It is not hard to overload one of those while not going over the other(s).

 

[medicshawn]

Congratulations you replied to a thread 4 years old.

 

[Duffster]

Congratulations you replied to a thread 4 years old.

That's OK it's still an interesting subject.