Gear Driven Hydraulic Scarifier System on Boxblade

BobReeves · Apr 19, 2006

Just ran across this thread, WOW.....

Was trying to come up with a way to do this on my BB a couple months ago using levers and cams. Gave up as a hopeless geometry nightmare.. Why the heck didn't I think gears, brilliant idea and execution.

wushaw · Apr 19, 2006

That is a work of art /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

wushaw · Apr 19, 2006

( Mad man. Mad man. The 7018 welds are actually pretty good, must be new or newly dried rod. I can only get welds that pretty with 6013. Maybe I need some practice.

I have a field fab question. I need to create the large, 1" or so diameter holes in barstock of 1/2" thickness plain mild steel to eliminate the side pin of the 3ph hitch and convert my hog to a captured hitch pin style. What do you recommend for drilling 1" holes in mild steel aside from a bench drill? I have a half inch drill and am considering either a big honkin drillbit or a hole saw or? I am pretty cheap and need to drill the holes on the implement.

Good to see you involved the boy. He could be a dentist with all that tooth cleaning he did. )

You could build up the flat stock to how you want it to fit then mark the hole and drill it using a drill press with a hole saw.
Then put in place on the BB with 1" pin through both holes then clamp/hold material in place and tack weld while keeping pin lined up and loose then finish weld it up.

This method worked for me building a disk harrow that I'm still draggin out.

3RRL · Apr 19, 2006

( Just ran across this thread, WOW.....

Was trying to come up with a way to do this on my BB a couple months ago using levers and cams. Gave up as a hopeless geometry nightmare.. Why the heck didn't I think gears, brilliant idea and execution. )

Hi Bob,
Actually it was your thread that got me thinking to do this. That's where I got the idea from. That's also where I saw the pivot kind. After some time, I figured a gear driven mechanism was the only way to go to incorporate it inside my existing boxblade. This is your thread
Want to know something funny? I had a partner in business for 11 years. He was a great man and an inspiration until he died in 1989. Want to know his name?

3RRL · Apr 19, 2006

Wushaw,
That's a good idea, kinda what I did to line up the lift pins and guide pins on this job. Only diference is my lift pins have shoulders on them next to the thread. The boxblade did not have the captured pins at that time. So when I welded the capturing plates on I made only enough room for Pat's E-Z Hitch to fit inbetween, not realizing that now I can never get those lift pins out without cutting them in half! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Geez, you get to thinking about the hard stuff and screw up the easy stuff! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

scott_vt · Apr 20, 2006

Mornin Rob,
Very good point about the welding, pulling things off center, definitely wont argue that point /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Just a super job, any toolmaker would be proud of !!!

I was thinking, if you did have a slight amount of misalignment between the blocks and the pins that you could have used some fine lapping compound to wear those blocks in. Unfortunately you still need to move them up and down by hand /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Very impressive project, and thanks for sharing your fine workmanship !

scotty

Bluecheck546 · Apr 20, 2006

Only thing I can say, YOU ARE THE MAN! Being toolmaker by trade I appreciate good concept design and a workmanship as well. It's pleasure to look at it, and even more fun is to operate I'm sure.

TwinWillows · Apr 20, 2006

That's got to be some of the nicest work I've ever seen!

3RRL · Apr 20, 2006

Scott, Gary Bluecheck and Twinwillows and everybody who was kind enough to comment on this thread...
WOW, getting compliments is always great, but getting them from other toolmakers is especially rewarding because if you guys are lke me, it's easy to be critical....thank you! (I know there's more than one way to skin a cat... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

Scott,...I cheated in the lapping process. I gave up with the compound and ended up getting a 60 grit flapper emory cloth wheel Ø1" and shoved it in there and buzzed the heck out of those holes. The only problem with that is if there is too much clearance, and the lift block cocks while being raised or lowered, it locks up. So this is what I did to reduce that problem and it worked out. First, I left the fit a little on the tight side. I was able to move the entire scarifier assembly up and down with the manual handle so I knew the 2 ton hydraulic cylinder would still move the assembly.(another reason I chose the HD 6 pitch teeth) In this way I knew I was still locating on all 4 guide pins. I also installed grease lines with Zerk fittings and an interior woodruff cut to lubricate the guide pin holes.

Then in placing the location of the lifting rack, I put the pitch diameter centerline smack on center of the lift bars. This meant I also had to locate the gear centerline to keep that relationship. The gears are held in position by the bars which I welded to the boxblade. I could not gaurantee those bars that hold the gear assembly would be bang on after welding. That's why I cut slots in the side plates so I could slide the gears to match the centerline of the rack. The key was to have the lifting force in the center of the riser bars so they would not bind up and it worked out. Here's a picture of the relationship. The blue rectangle represents the riser bar from an end view.

Corm · Apr 27, 2006

Let me join the rest of the folks by saying Wow, real nice work! You've definitely raised the standard with this project!! Thanks for all the time you spent sharing it with us.

Corm

3RRL · May 1, 2006

Hi everyone,
I wanted to thank you all for the compliments on my recent projects.

I also wanted to update you and let you know that they work great. You can't believe how fun it is to change the position of the rippers while driving. I finished that pad I was grading for my battery storage building and could cut down the high spots while driving over. Then raise then up so as not to cut too deep where I didn't need to. The added weight to the boxblade and the re-inforcement to the scarifiers showed up when I hit hard decomposed granite. I was able to cut through it and level it out with ease.

I know it was a lot of work, but it turned out too good to be true! I'm not a spring chicken anymore so anytime I can remain in the seat, less jumping on and off the tractor, the more I like it. Mostly, I was so happy that it worked so neat. This one was truly gratifying.
Thanks,

3RRL · May 15, 2006

Well, I uploaded a video of the boxblade working all the functions. It's pretty neat to watch the mechanics and hydraulics. It's about 40 seconds long or so and 12MB so it might take a bit to download. Hope you can view it.
Hydraulic Boxblade Video

3RRL · May 15, 2006

Well, I uploaded a video of the boxblade working all the functions. It's pretty neat to watch the mechanics and hydraulics. It's about 40 seconds long or so and 12MB so it might take a bit to download. Hope you can view it.
Hydraulic Boxblade Video

Highbeam · May 15, 2006

They rise and fall more quickly than I thought. I was thinking of your system this weekend as I was removing each spring clip, pin, then raising the shank, then insert pin, and then spring clip. It would sure be nice. I also spent a good bit of time adjusting my manual top link. TnT would sure be nice.

Highbeam · May 15, 2006

They rise and fall more quickly than I thought. I was thinking of your system this weekend as I was removing each spring clip, pin, then raising the shank, then insert pin, and then spring clip. It would sure be nice. I also spent a good bit of time adjusting my manual top link. TnT would sure be nice.

scott_vt · May 15, 2006

Hi Rob,
Nice video /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif You really get the feel of how much weight your hangin out there when you drop that thing down with the three point /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Did you sacrifice any adjustment on the scarifiers with the new setup or do you still have the same amount of up and down movement? Obviously you have a finer adjustment with more control, just wondering if you sacrificed any on the up and down?

scott_vt · May 15, 2006

Hi Rob,
Nice video /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif You really get the feel of how much weight your hangin out there when you drop that thing down with the three point /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Did you sacrifice any adjustment on the scarifiers with the new setup or do you still have the same amount of up and down movement? Obviously you have a finer adjustment with more control, just wondering if you sacrificed any on the up and down?

3RRL · May 15, 2006

TNT is a must Joe. Often after you've set the manual top link and start draggin' it, you've got to jump down to set it "a little better" not sure in which direction...so you end up adjusting it several times before getting the actual results you were looking for. The TNT sure makes THAT easy...just drag for a while and move it back and forth until it's perfect.

In conjuction, the Hydraulic rippers are really nice too. Well worth the effert for me...life is good /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

3RRL · May 15, 2006

TNT is a must Joe. Often after you've set the manual top link and start draggin' it, you've got to jump down to set it "a little better" not sure in which direction...so you end up adjusting it several times before getting the actual results you were looking for. The TNT sure makes THAT easy...just drag for a while and move it back and forth until it's perfect.

In conjuction, the Hydraulic rippers are really nice too. Well worth the effert for me...life is good /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

3RRL · May 15, 2006

Hi Scott,
I chose 4" of travel, figuring that would be plenty of dig depth when the boxblade is level. When tilted forward all the way, it looks more like 6" to 8"? (Not sure exactly.)
I could have used a longer stroke for the system but figured this would be good...and it is. I don't think the tractor would pull much more when they (all 7) are burried all the way in hard ground. The shanks I bought at Agri-Supply are now in the middle top hole, so I could set them one or two holes down more, but as it turned out, I don't need to. That means I can now by the shorter ones for $10 ea. if I need to replace these.