Gear Driven Hydraulic Scarifier System on Boxblade

[BobReeves]

Just ran across this thread, WOW.....

Was trying to come up with a way to do this on my BB a couple months ago using levers and cams. Gave up as a hopeless geometry nightmare.. Why the heck didn't I think gears, brilliant idea and execution.

 

[wushaw]

That is a work of art /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[wushaw]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Mad man. Mad man. The 7018 welds are actually pretty good, must be new or newly dried rod. I can only get welds that pretty with 6013. Maybe I need some practice.

I have a field fab question. I need to create the large, 1" or so diameter holes in barstock of 1/2" thickness plain mild steel to eliminate the side pin of the 3ph hitch and convert my hog to a captured hitch pin style. What do you recommend for drilling 1" holes in mild steel aside from a bench drill? I have a half inch drill and am considering either a big honkin drillbit or a hole saw or? I am pretty cheap and need to drill the holes on the implement.

Good to see you involved the boy. He could be a dentist with all that tooth cleaning he did. )</font>

You could build up the flat stock to how you want it to fit then mark the hole and drill it using a drill press with a hole saw.
Then put in place on the BB with 1" pin through both holes then clamp/hold material in place and tack weld while keeping pin lined up and loose then finish weld it up.

This method worked for me building a disk harrow that I'm still draggin out.

 

[3RRL]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Just ran across this thread, WOW.....

Was trying to come up with a way to do this on my BB a couple months ago using levers and cams. Gave up as a hopeless geometry nightmare.. Why the heck didn't I think gears, brilliant idea and execution. )</font>

Hi Bob,
Actually it was your thread that got me thinking to do this. That's where I got the idea from. That's also where I saw the pivot kind. After some time, I figured a gear driven mechanism was the only way to go to incorporate it inside my existing boxblade. This is your thread
Want to know something funny? I had a partner in business for 11 years. He was a great man and an inspiration until he died in 1989. Want to know his name?

 

[3RRL]

Wushaw,
That's a good idea, kinda what I did to line up the lift pins and guide pins on this job. Only diference is my lift pins have shoulders on them next to the thread. The boxblade did not have the captured pins at that time. So when I welded the capturing plates on I made only enough room for Pat's E-Z Hitch to fit inbetween, not realizing that now I can never get those lift pins out without cutting them in half! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Geez, you get to thinking about the hard stuff and screw up the easy stuff! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[scott_vt]

Mornin Rob,
Very good point about the welding, pulling things off center, definitely wont argue that point /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Just a super job, any toolmaker would be proud of !!!

I was thinking, if you did have a slight amount of misalignment between the blocks and the pins that you could have used some fine lapping compound to wear those blocks in. Unfortunately you still need to move them up and down by hand /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Very impressive project, and thanks for sharing your fine workmanship !

scotty

 

[Bluecheck546]

Only thing I can say, YOU ARE THE MAN! Being toolmaker by trade I appreciate good concept design and a workmanship as well. It's pleasure to look at it, and even more fun is to operate I'm sure.

 

[TwinWillows]

That's got to be some of the nicest work I've ever seen!

 

[3RRL]

Scott, Gary Bluecheck and Twinwillows and everybody who was kind enough to comment on this thread...
WOW, getting compliments is always great, but getting them from other toolmakers is especially rewarding because if you guys are lke me, it's easy to be critical....thank you! (I know there's more than one way to skin a cat... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

Scott,...I cheated in the lapping process. I gave up with the compound and ended up getting a 60 grit flapper emory cloth wheel Ø1" and shoved it in there and buzzed the heck out of those holes. The only problem with that is if there is too much clearance, and the lift block cocks while being raised or lowered, it locks up. So this is what I did to reduce that problem and it worked out. First, I left the fit a little on the tight side. I was able to move the entire scarifier assembly up and down with the manual handle so I knew the 2 ton hydraulic cylinder would still move the assembly.(another reason I chose the HD 6 pitch teeth) In this way I knew I was still locating on all 4 guide pins. I also installed grease lines with Zerk fittings and an interior woodruff cut to lubricate the guide pin holes.

Then in placing the location of the lifting rack, I put the pitch diameter centerline smack on center of the lift bars. This meant I also had to locate the gear centerline to keep that relationship. The gears are held in position by the bars which I welded to the boxblade. I could not gaurantee those bars that hold the gear assembly would be bang on after welding. That's why I cut slots in the side plates so I could slide the gears to match the centerline of the rack. The key was to have the lifting force in the center of the riser bars so they would not bind up and it worked out. Here's a picture of the relationship. The blue rectangle represents the riser bar from an end view.

 

[Corm]

Let me join the rest of the folks by saying Wow, real nice work! You've definitely raised the standard with this project!! Thanks for all the time you spent sharing it with us.

Corm