Buying Advice GC1700 for landscaping/yard work

[jeff9366]

RE: Box Blade ~ I was a little worried about lack of power for pulling things like that. I haven't really seen any good explanatory videos on YouTube; most of the time it's just a guy pulling one around and I'm not really sure what's happening. Do you just kind of drag it around the yard? Do I have to remove the sod first? I was thinking of using the front loader to scrape up the sod, and then maybe a box blade to do the actual leveling.

The large rear wheels on tractors provide great mechanical advantage for PULLING. In addition, tractors are geared down for PULLING, in lieu of over-the-road speed.

Everyone's conditions are specific so it is difficult to generalize. That said, you generally want bare dirt or 'scalped' turf when starting with a Box Blade and a light tractor. A heavy tractor pulling a heavy Box Blade can cut through turf. A Box Blade takes a while to learn how to use well. It is an intermediate skill implement.

The cutting ability of a Box Blade is mostly related to its weight; specifically weight per foot of width. Effective cutting begins at 100 pounds per foot of width; 125 pounds per foot is better. Adjusting the Three Point Hitch 'Top Link' also effects cutting, but to a lesser degree. "Just right" soil moisture can make a big difference in marginal conditions.

You probably will not find using the bucket to remove sod satisfactory.

 

[jeff9366]

You have expressed both desire and doubt for a $5,000 Backhoe.

Exactly what tasks do you contemplate for this attachment?

TBN surveys indicate that average annual use for residential tractors is eighty hours, with mowing being the primary task.

On a tractor the primary focus is on the Three Point Hitch and its Power Take Off (3-Pt/PTO). Secondary focus is on the Front End Loader (FEL). Trailing tertiary focus in on the rear/center drawbar.



MOWER LINK: finish mower vs mid mount mower - Google Search

 

[jeff9366]

Thanks for the information! My lawn is tree/stump free, so no problems there. It's just overgrown with tall weeds, and the terrain is very uneven. My riding lawnmover gets stuck all the time because there are steep bumps and ruts. For example, when they ran power underground to the house, they dug out a trench all the way to the road. When they filled it back in, either they didn't bother grading it, or it sunk in. Along this large ditch, there's a long mound that also goes to the road. Same idea where they ran power/pipes to the well, there's just a big ditch from the house to it.

Besides that, the yard is just very uneven in general. The old riding mower was constantly hitting the dirt with the mower blade because of this, or getting stuck when I come up to a steep mound.

This is Box Blade or Rear/Angle Blade work for sure.

LINK: Google Box Blade vs Rear Blade

 

[srpape]

You have expressed both desire and doubt for a $5,000 Backhoe.

Exactly what tasks do you contemplate for this attachment?

TBN surveys indicate that average annual use for residential tractors is eighty hours, with mowing being the primary task.

On a tractor the primary focus is on the Three Point Hitch and its Power Take Off (3-Pt/PTO). Secondary focus is on the Front End Loader (FEL). Trailing tertiary focus in on the rear/center drawbar.



MOWER LINK: finish mower vs mid mount mower - Google Search

I have a long drainage ditch that goes the entire length of my yard, and it hasn't been maintained. When I bought the property a year ago, the yard was flooding because it had essentially collapsed or filled with debris/weeds. I dug parts of it out by hand to get the water moving, but it really wasn't wide enough. So definitely that.

I'm also planning to put in some trees and a fence. I figured I could use the backhoe to do this, even though I could get a post hole digger instead.

Also considering a small pond in the future, but that's low priority. Just a small one for koi or something.

I've got a lot of landscaping tasks planned, and I assume it'd be useful, but I developed some sticker shock after seeing the price jump up by ~33% for it.

 

[srpape]

You probably not find using the bucket to remove sod satisfactory.

Would it help to get a tooth bar?

 

[jeff9366]

RE: Backhoe ~ I have a long drainage ditch that goes the entire length of my yard, and it hasn't been maintained. When I bought the property a year ago, the yard was flooding because it had essentially collapsed or filled with debris/weeds. I dug parts of it out by hand to get the water moving, but it really wasn't wide enough.

I'm also planning to put in some trees and a fence. I figured I could use the backhoe to do this, even though I could get a post hole digger instead. ~~ Photo 1, Photo 2.

I've got a lot of landscaping tasks planned, anda small pond in the future.

You can clear that ditch with a $300 Middle Buster. Break the debris with Middle Buster, scoop out with FEL. To plant a few trees you can loosen the ground in an 'X' pattern with a Middle Buster, then hand spade loose spoil. If you buy a heavier tractor with a heavier bucket, a Bucket Spade is at least as good as a Backhoe for planting trees. Stab, lift, go.

VIDEO: tractor middle buster - YouTube

An alternative for the same ditch clearing task is a Ratchet Rake bucket attachment. See Photos #3-#5. Pull out the debris with the rake, operating the tractor in reverse. Simultaneously, grade ditch banks. RATCHET RAKE IS WORTHLESS FOR DIGGING.

VIDEO: ratchet rake brush clearing - YouTube
You can buy a RR from the T-B-N store, button at top of this page.

Note: Multiple attachments stored on one, mobile, platform dolly. Photo #6.

With a Piranha Tooth Bar you can dig that pond. There are numerous tooth bars out there. The Piranha brand is highly regarded by light tractor users for excavation tasks. Ratchet Rake is superior for grading.

FEL will be your primary landscaping tool.

LINK: BXpanded Piranha Tooth Bar

Forget the Backhoe. Apply $5,000 toward a heavier tractor.

 

[srpape]

You can clear that ditch with a $300 Middle Buster. Break the debris with Middle Buster, scoop out with FEL. To plant a few trees you can loosen the ground in an 'X' pattern with a Middle Buster, then hand spade loose spoil. If you buy a heavier tractor with a heavier bucket, a Bucket Spade is at least as good as a Backhoe for planting tree. Stab, lift, go.

VIDEO: tractor middle buster - YouTube

An alternative for the same ditch clearing task is a Ratchet Rake bucket attachment. Ratchet Rake is also good for light grading. WORTHLESS FOR DIGGING. See Photos 3-5.

VIDEO: ratchet rake brush clearing - YouTube
You can buy a RR from the T-B-N store, button at top of this page.

Note: Multiple attachments stored on one, mobile, platform dolly. Photo #6.

With a Piranha Tooth Bar you can dig that pond. There are numerous tooth bars out there. The Piranha brand is highly regarded by light tractor users for excavation tasks. Ratchet Rake is superior for grading.

FEL will be your primary landscaping tool.

LINK: BXpanded Piranha Tooth Bar

Forget the Backhoe. Apply $5,000 toward a heavier tractor.

Wow, thanks for all that. I wasn't familiar with middle busters.

 

[jeff9366]

The universe of T-B-N contributors knows EVERYTHING.

 

[TheMan419]

For me the biggest thing (and I am still quite a newbie) was looking at several different colors of tractor. They all make something in the size you are looking at. I'd also consider the dealer network near you. My nearest MF dealer is 30 miles away. I have Kuboda, JD and NH within 10 miles. So easier to get to for parts and service.

I have a few things the backhoe would probably be nice for, but could not justify the cost. I'll rent one or hire out if those projects come to fruition.

 

[DMW]

The GC will do everything you want, just takes a while. The cost of the backhoe is almost equivalent to a box blade, rear snowblower and tiller combined. Box blade will not work well in a lot of sod. Tilling the sod off the top helps a lot. Trying to scrape the sod off with the loader is time consuming, and the sod clumps never grade well with the box blade. Contour the ditches into swales, much easier to mow, and less likely to get stuck.
Landscaping is a long term project, You'll never get it perfect quickly. I prefer to grade in spring and fall when the grass seed germinates quickly. If you find a spot where the mower scalps the lawn, re-contour it.
Scrape up some dirt to use as fill, it comes in handy.
Start a small garden right away, just keep expanding it every year.
What type of tires? I would get turfs if I had to choose again.

Dennis

 

[jenkinsph]

The GC will do everything you want, just takes a while. The cost of the backhoe is almost equivalent to a box blade, rear snowblower and tiller combined. Box blade will not work well in a lot of sod. Tilling the sod off the top helps a lot. Trying to scrape the sod off with the loader is time consuming, and the sod clumps never grade well with the box blade. Contour the ditches into swales, much easier to mow, and less likely to get stuck.
Landscaping is a long term project, You'll never get it perfect quickly. I prefer to grade in spring and fall when the grass seed germinates quickly. If you find a spot where the mower scalps the lawn, re-contour it.
Scrape up some dirt to use as fill, it comes in handy.
Start a small garden right away, just keep expanding it every year.
What type of tires? I would get turfs if I had to choose again.

Dennis

You bring up some good points imo about landscaping. It does take a little time to make improvements to a lawn but it is worth the effort. Having the correct implements makes it much easier. I would much prefer to have a tiller, box blade and snow blower (if needed) than a small backhoe attachment.

 

[srpape]

The GC will do everything you want, just takes a while. The cost of the backhoe is almost equivalent to a box blade, rear snowblower and tiller combined. Box blade will not work well in a lot of sod. Tilling the sod off the top helps a lot. Trying to scrape the sod off with the loader is time consuming, and the sod clumps never grade well with the box blade. Contour the ditches into swales, much easier to mow, and less likely to get stuck.
Landscaping is a long term project, You'll never get it perfect quickly. I prefer to grade in spring and fall when the grass seed germinates quickly. If you find a spot where the mower scalps the lawn, re-contour it.
Scrape up some dirt to use as fill, it comes in handy.
Start a small garden right away, just keep expanding it every year.
What type of tires? I would get turfs if I had to choose again.

Dennis

They all come with the industrial R4s from the dealer here, unless I made a special request.

Someone else had mentioned getting a tooth bar to scrape up the sod. Other people have said not to use a tiller, as it'll bury the sod and cause fungus or something. Others say to use a disc harrow. My dealer says a box blade itself will be fine. I feel like I see a lot of conflicting information about what to do... so I'll probably start with the loader and box blade and see how it goes. I'll likely end up purchasing some extra implements as I learn what I'm up against, probably a tiller next since I want to make a garden anyway.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[jeff9366]

A Disc Harrow is one form of soil mixing TILLER. A PTO powered roto-tiller is a second form of soil mixing TILLER.

A GC1700 cannot pull a Disc Harrow heavy enough to mix soil. If you decide you need a TILLER, purchase a PTO powered roto-tiller. Roto-tillers are preferred for garden applications.


LINK: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/308251-disc-harrow-selection-18-45-a.html?highlight=

 

[AxleHub]

They all come with the industrial R4s from the dealer here, unless I made a special request.

Someone else had mentioned getting a tooth bar to scrape up the sod. Other people have said not to use a tiller, as it'll bury the sod and cause fungus or something. Others say to use a disc harrow. My dealer says a box blade itself will be fine. I feel like I see a lot of conflicting information about what to do... so I'll probably start with the loader and box blade and see how it goes. I'll likely end up purchasing some extra implements as I learn what I'm up against, probably a tiller next since I want to make a garden anyway.

Thanks for the advice!

Greetings srpape,

As you can see . . Tbn posters are both helpful but also quite opinionated lol.

A GC1700 series is a good fit for much of your plans it would appear. I know I'm glad I chose the GC1715 because a little added horsepower, a little more hydrauluc flow and a preferred seat were a good value choice for my needs.

Also Ive been quite surprised at how very well my turf tires have done in snow and ice. I really never believed I could go on the yard in winter and especially on my back slope with 7 ir 8 inches of snow on the ground. It really comes in handy if you are plowing sidewalks if you can come at them straight by going on the lawn to get a straight shot.

My unit came with Titan turfs (per my list of needs). Recently I've become aware that there are numerous turf thread patterns . . while I thought there was only 1. There are both more aggressive turf tires and more blah or mild turf tire patterns (that probably would not have worked well for me).

You are fortunate that its 1 year later regarding tbn and GC1700 series. In April and May of 2015 there was not nearly the same amount of information and activity on the GC1700s as there is today. A year ago much of the info came from prior model gc owners or from Kubota forum input. It seems ownership of GC1700s has increased greatly as have the dealer network really expanded greatly. And of course the GC1700s got the added benefit of a 5 year warranty vs. The prior warranty of prior gc models.

Good luck to you

 

[srpape]

A Disc Harrow is one form of soil mixing TILLER. A PTO powered roto-tiller is a second form of soil mixing TILLER.

A GC1700 cannot pull a Disc Harrow heavy enough to mix soil. If you decide you need a TILLER, purchase a PTO powered roto-tiller. Roto-tillers are preferred for garden applications.


LINK: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/308251-disc-harrow-selection-18-45-a.html?highlight=

Thanks, but is that what I'd want to remove the sod? Would it be a good idea to lightly till and then try to scoop it out with the FEL?

 

[jeff9366]

Are you interested in saving the sod for re-use?

If not, mow the grass as short as possible then try the Box Blade when the soil is moist. If it works, it works.

If you get a Box Blade with rippers, they will tear up the grass but probably will not be necessary if you acquire a Box Blade with at least 100 pounds per foot of width. Rippers are mostly used to get to the bottom of road pot holes and feathering in the pot hole to the road surface, before filling in.

Ratchet Rake, described in Post #26, will tear out the sod easily but sod will be destroyed in the process. Ratchet Rake can pull debris out of your clogged ditch and grade the ditch banks too.

 

[jenkinsph]

Other people have said not to use a tiller, as it'll bury the sod and cause fungus or something.

Never heard of this. You might check with your local agriculture office, county agent or similar to get good advice. If fungus is a problem you can usually add the proper amendments to correct the soil imbalance.

 

[nikerret]

I have a BX25D and would not be hesitant to tackle the tasks you list. The beauty of a GC17xx/BX/1-Series is it is small. When you get done with the one time or once every few years projects, you're looking at mowing and landscaping. The smaller machines will do that better while offering big machine capabilities, for the more rare tasks.

I can drive my BX around a my wet yard, with the FEL on and within a day, or two, the tracks are gone. By day three, there is no evidence I was there.

As was stated, acreage mowing will take up most of the hours, on your machine. Get the one that will do that best, and cheapest.

 

[plowhog]

I bought a GC1710 about six months ago and I am extremely pleased with it. I have similar needs as yours and the tractor has already done some very good work. I have used the loader for all kinds of jobs and the backhoe has torn out a lot of old vegetation (junipers.) I just purchased a box scraper for the same reason as you need one, but I haven't put it into use yet.

 

[jeff9366]

Thanks, but is that what I'd want to remove the sod? Would it be a good idea to lightly till and then try to scoop it out with the FEL?

Make a reasoned decisions about your tractor-loader and Box Blade. Put in some hours with the tractor-loader and Box Blade. Then consider what your next equipment purchase should be.

Respondents have different conditions from you. Respondents experience will vary from yours.

In Florida, I am always trying to increase the organic content of my sand based soil.