GC 2300 wont start

[ray66v]

Hi everyone. I am having a similar problem but with a ~ 2015 GC1710 .

Really good grounds.
Ignition switch appears to be perfect working order zero corrosion.
All fuses appear to be okay.
Strong battery working alternator.

Key won't engage starter solenoid.
Glow plug lights are on almost permanently.
Returning the key to 'off' position get a buzzing from glow plug relay.
Four way flashers on and I get a sick clicking and buzzing from relay that operates the flashers.

I can jump the starter from the current battery it starts up fine runs nearly flawless. A bit erratic but settles down and purs throughout the rpm range. I've had it running for 30min.
Key will not cut off the engine.

I'm lost! Any suggestions out there? Appreciate the thought. Here's a YouTube link of the machine. Thanks

I'm to new to embed links. I can message you the video link perhaps?

Since you have multiple issues, and all of them have the ignition switch in common, it seems very likely that it has failed.

If you can't find anything else wrong, you may have to try replacing it.

 

[tomstaplez]

Thanks for the reply. I also am leaning towards the ignition switch however...,
if I bypass the ignition switch, (hot wire from the connections behind the switch) I can get the tractor to roll over and start, but the glow plug light remains on and the weird buzzing sound still is heard from the glow plug relay. So confused.

 

[tomstaplez]

I just tried a brand new ignition switch, 68$ Canadian. That did not work.

 

[ray66v]

Bad timing too with the holiday weekend here, everyone is busy.

A bad ground, or a short, can cause a lot of confusing issues like this, as circuits back feed.

If no one else has an idea, it's probably going to be a time consuming search, checking each wire with the schematic.

I feel for you, having recently spent 5 hours finding an electrical issue on my riding mower.

Just for the heck of it, did you try it after unplugging the glow plug relay?

 

[tomstaplez]

Yep, everything acts the same but without the buzzing of course.

 

[coldsteelva]

I'm currently experiencing this issue with a 2016 GC1720 @400 hours. Initial symptom was it died while running. Fuse 8 was popped, which kills fuel pump and starter. Replaced the fuse and she fired up. Within 30 minutes, dead again and fuse popped again. Now she won't crank at all, but the fuel pump runs and glow plugs are ok.

I have replaced that 10 amp fuse (still intact) - checked the Neutral Safety and discovered it was routed poorly and had worn through 1 of 4 wires (repaired it and corrected routing). Checked the PTO clutch safety and verified that it functions correctly. Turn the key to on and engine stop solenoid retracts (loud click), fuel pump runs (rattle under floorboard for tomstaplez), but the starter will no longer engage.

It is 96 in the garage so I had to bail out of my troubleshooting efforts. I guess I'll be pulling the ignition switch.

 

[ray66v]

I'm currently experiencing this issue with a 2016 GC1720 @400 hours. Initial symptom was it died while running. Fuse 8 was popped, which kills fuel pump and starter. Replaced the fuse and she fired up. Within 30 minutes, dead again and fuse popped again. Now she won't crank at all, but the fuel pump runs and glow plugs are ok.

I have replaced that 10 amp fuse (still intact) - checked the Neutral Safety and discovered it was routed poorly and had worn through 1 of 4 wires (repaired it and corrected routing). Checked the PTO clutch safety and verified that it functions correctly. Turn the key to on and engine stop solenoid retracts (loud click), fuel pump runs (rattle under floorboard for tomstaplez), but the starter will no longer engage.

It is 96 in the garage so I had to bail out of my troubleshooting efforts. I guess I'll be pulling the ignition switch.

I assume you reset all levers to verify it isn't a safety switch?

It's pretty easy to bump a lever, and not notice it isn't centered.

 

[coldsteelva]

I assume you reset all levers to verify it isn't a safety switch?

It's pretty easy to bump a lever, and not notice it isn't centered.

I did, but I also disconnected and tested the PTO clutch safety and seat safety.

 

[Fragger]

okay there's a limit switch on your three point that I had issues with it's on the right side reach down there and make sure that you're the neutral position if it's not in the neutral position your tractor will not crank up

 

[Fragger]

check all of your limit switches don't start replacing Parts did you find out which one is bad

 

[Fragger]

Sorry ray just read your responses !! Not trying to steal your thunder

 

[ray66v]

Sorry ray just read your responses !! Not trying to steal your thunder

No problem.

We have all posted first, and read too late.

Someone who has 1700 series electrical knowledge, would be great here.

 

[coldsteelva]

We will all gladly accept and try any plausible ideas. Over 100 in the garage so not much time to mess with it - I'm hoping by the weekend to know if my ignition switch is toast or the starter. I will check the PTO lever too.

 

[ray66v]

We will all gladly accept and try any plausible ideas. Over 100 in the garage so not much time to mess with it - I'm hoping by the weekend to know if my ignition switch is toast or the starter. I will check the PTO lever too.

Starter failures are extremely rare. I think there has only been one.

I would not replace the starter. (they are big money), without finding someone who can test it.

If you need one, it probably can be rebuilt for a fraction of the cost of new.

 

[JWR]

This issue has been going round and round on 4 or 5 different threads for years. The true/main problem was very well nailed and described in a thread 3 or 4 months ago (which I'm too lazy to chase.) There MAY be several other causes but I'm going to be pushy here and tell you exactly what the problem is in 99% of the BX series cases with the same symptoms as the OP described. "Clicks but won't turn over."

THE problem is that a full 12v is not getting to the solenoid.

That can be diagnosed many ways as to WHY but that is the core, basic, understanding you need to solve the problem. It is not ground, it is not a bad starter, it is not any of a dozen other theories. Other threads have described solutions. Tapping on the starter, any kind of movement to slightly rotate the starter and jar the solenoid,etc. The BEST seems to be placing a relay connected direct to the 12v source and triggered by the same signal that SHOULD drive the solenoid. Running a direct 12v to the relay bypasses all the various voltage drops at safety interconnects and all that. Those numerous voltage drops and marginal connections are the root cause. Deere is rumored to sell a kit for this purpose. etc , etc.

Just yesterday I had this exact issue with my BX2200. I've been too lazy to go do a wiring job by putting in a relay. This only happens maybe once out of every 15 times you try to start it anyway. Pain, but only so big a pain. I have found that a 10A battery charger hooked across the battery terminals will cause it to start OK every time. No need to "charge" the battery per se, just provide a temporary slightly higher voltage at the 12v source which the charger guarantees.

 

[ray66v]

This issue has been going round and round on 4 or 5 different threads for years. The true/main problem was very well nailed and described in a thread 3 or 4 months ago (which I'm too lazy to chase.) There MAY be several other causes but I'm going to be pushy here and tell you exactly what the problem is in 99% of the BX series cases with the same symptoms as the OP described. "Clicks but won't turn over."

THE problem is that a full 12v is not getting to the solenoid.

That can be diagnosed many ways as to WHY but that is the core, basic, understanding you need to solve the problem. It is not ground, it is not a bad starter, it is not any of a dozen other theories. Other threads have described solutions. Tapping on the starter, any kind of movement to slightly rotate the starter and jar the solenoid,etc. The BEST seems to be placing a relay connected direct to the 12v source and triggered by the same signal that SHOULD drive the solenoid. Running a direct 12v to the relay bypasses all the various voltage drops at safety interconnects and all that. Those numerous voltage drops and marginal connections are the root cause. Deere is rumored to sell a kit for this purpose. etc , etc.

Just yesterday I had this exact issue with my BX2200. I've been too lazy to go do a wiring job by putting in a relay. This only happens maybe once out of every 15 times you try to start it anyway. Pain, but only so big a pain. I have found that a 10A battery charger hooked across the battery terminals will cause it to start OK every time. No need to "charge" the battery per se, just provide a temporary slightly higher voltage at the 12v source which the charger guarantees.

We haven't seen this happen on a GC, but it's certainly easy enough to test.

Let us know, guys.

 

[tomstaplez]

Hi, my problem was a small ground wire was removed from the frame.

It was located underneath the floor panels, about where your left foot would rest. Wire pulled out of the eye bolt. But was resting nearby. It shoots out of the wire harness that heads to all the electrical stuff on the rear of the tractor.

 

[ray66v]

Hi, my problem was a small ground wire was removed from the frame.

It was located underneath the floor panels, about where your left foot would rest. Wire pulled out of the eye bolt. But was resting nearby. It shoots out of the wire harness that heads to all the electrical stuff on the rear of the tractor.

Thanks for the update.

 

[coldsteelva]

Here's my final update. I removed the left floor panel, removed and wire brushed the battery/chassis ground (some light corrosion) - replaced the bolt/ground after a light coating of dielectric grease. There is no protection from water splashing up underneath where it can then sit. Once I buttoned that all up - STILL NO START.

Frustrated as could be due to the mid-90s weather (day 15 in a row at that point) and nearly ready to give up in defeat...I took a breath and decided to re-check the neutral safety (originally identified as having been routed poorly and chafed). Closer inspection identified that it had actually been routed and wedged UNDER the fuel tank instead of through the void behind the tank sump under the seat. I pulled/tugged/yanked the cable out from under the fuel tank, in order to reach the connector. I accessed the connector, disconnected the switch, and jumpered the pins - EUREKA!

She fired right up. I let her run for a few minutes while I sheepishly accepted success. For the time being I left the safety jumpered (I'm the only one that operates this tractor) so I could get my 4 acres mowed yesterday and today. I brought the switch inside and stripped off the outer jacket. Only the original chafing was evident and testing with my multimeter revealed that it still produces continuity in only the neutral position so when it gets a little cooler I will re-wrap and replace the switch.

It is highly possible that the white plastic fork (actuated by the range selector) is slightly out of it's original position. In the end, I thank you all for the suggestions. Accessing the chassis ground may have allowed me to correct and head off a future issue.

 

[irvingj]

Yay! Glad you finally got it! (And thanks for letting us know what you found!!)