dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
Time to get started, I ain't getting any younger.
Sketchup can handle the plans...
Sketchup can handle the plans...
Garage project
- Thread starter dieselsmoke1
- Start date
- Views: 20873
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
GATC35
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2004
- Messages
- 333
- Tractor
- New Holland TC-45D
Looks good! keep the pics coming...... I did something similar 2 years ago. The only thing I would do different is the ceiling and garage door heights. I built 10 ft. ceilings with 8 ft. high doors, wish I would have built 12 ft. high ceilings with 10 ft. doors. Neither of my tractors will fit in my garage with the ROPS up and canopies on. They are normally stored in a pole barn so being in the weather is not an issue, but when they require maintenance it sure would be nice to be in the garage with heat/air conditioning, good lighting, and compressed air.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I agree with Mark that a larger door opening would come in handy if you wanted to park your tractor inside. My door is 10x10, and it works our real nice.
I also noticed that you have a 2ft 10in opening for your door. I wasn't sure if that was the rough in opening, or the finished door size, but either way, I would seriously reconsider this and install a 3ft door. My doors are right next to each other, just like yours, and even with a 3ft door, I sometimes wish for a larger opening. If it gets really bad, I just open the big door, but for just carrying stuff in and out, I'd much rather just leave the big door closed.
Eddie
I also noticed that you have a 2ft 10in opening for your door. I wasn't sure if that was the rough in opening, or the finished door size, but either way, I would seriously reconsider this and install a 3ft door. My doors are right next to each other, just like yours, and even with a 3ft door, I sometimes wish for a larger opening. If it gets really bad, I just open the big door, but for just carrying stuff in and out, I'd much rather just leave the big door closed.
Eddie
whitedogone
Gold Member
The 1'-4" wall section at the entry door doesn't meet code (2006 IRC) unless a portal framing method or other method is used. Sign up here.....it's free and download the tech notes on wall bracing.
Learn How To Enforce Wall Bracing Code Effectively :: APA Wall Bracing :: APA - The Engineered Wood Association
Learn How To Enforce Wall Bracing Code Effectively :: APA Wall Bracing :: APA - The Engineered Wood Association
whitedogone
Gold Member
Take a look here for " APA Narrow wall bracing method"
http://www.coastalcontractor.net/pdf/2006/0607/0607wall.pdf
Understand Code Bracing Requirements :: APA Wall Bracing :: APA - The Engineered Wood Association
Understanding Wall Bracing Solutions: Continuous Wood Structural Panel Sheathing
Understanding Wall Bracing Solutions: Alternate Braced Wall Panel
Understanding Wall Bracing Solutions: New Alternate Braced Wall Panel
http://www.coastalcontractor.net/pdf/2006/0607/0607wall.pdf
Understand Code Bracing Requirements :: APA Wall Bracing :: APA - The Engineered Wood Association
Understanding Wall Bracing Solutions: Continuous Wood Structural Panel Sheathing
Understanding Wall Bracing Solutions: Alternate Braced Wall Panel
Understanding Wall Bracing Solutions: New Alternate Braced Wall Panel
dodge man
Super Star Member
Very nice looking plan. Mine is 28 deep by 30 wide, which is just a little larger than yours. Three things I wish I had done different is make it bigger, the depth is fine but I wish it was one gargage bay wider. I also wish I had gone with 10 foot high cielings and at least one oversized garage door, I have single garage doors instead of one big one. I also wish I had gone with the tall trusses like you are doing for storage above.
Yours will be pretty solid, mine is just a slab on grade with a rat wall around the edge, where yours will have footing. Building code may require this where you are at.
Good luck and enjoy the process.
Yours will be pretty solid, mine is just a slab on grade with a rat wall around the edge, where yours will have footing. Building code may require this where you are at.
Good luck and enjoy the process.
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
You are correct whitdogone, but I've heard sometimes there's a little flexibility applied to this at least in our neck of the woods. I was told by phone my plans were approved before starting to dig Friday but I'll pick them up this afternoon and see what's marked up.
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
I'm OK on door height. My little piece goes in my existing garage with room to spare and I don't need anything larger.
You're right about the 2'8" door, Eddie. The real story is that it's free and I'd have to buy a 3'0".
You're right about the 2'8" door, Eddie. The real story is that it's free and I'd have to buy a 3'0".
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
Well it's not marked up but that probably isn't going to stop an inspector from turning it down. I didn't want to push the door so far from the corner but 4 more inches ain't gonna matter i suppose.
whitedogone
Gold Member
Use the portal framing just to be safe. Here are some details:
http://ohiobuildingcodeconsultants.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/portalwallbracingdetail.pdf
It's not really that hard to do. Just follow ALL the specs exactly.
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
Very informative link, whitedogone. In your opinion can I push the door header up to the bottom of the plate and frame the door opening below and be in compliance?
whitedogone
Gold Member
Yes you can infill below for the door framing. If I was doing it, I would just extend both ends of that header extending it over to the oh door king post and put it under the top plate. The one thing that I see in the field that kind of messes guys up is the placement of the 2 required bolts in the narrow wall. It will serve you well to lay the studs in that location on a story board so that you wont end up under a stud and you have room to get the plate washers on. Also, if I was reviewing your plan, I would have called out your bolt O.C. (96") ??? And would have asked for the engineering on the OH door header material. Make sure to slope floor to OH door or install drains.
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
Thanks whitedogone. 96" was my error and was corrected to 72" on my approved plans per our wind zone's requirements. I submitted engineering statements on both LVL's so that's all good. I'e got a 2" fall from back to front of the garage pad and a 6" rise on it's 8' apron. My plans were marked for "lug footings" under both ends of the OH door LVL, no specs, so I increased the foundation footprint to 36" square under each side. Also increased to 36" sq under each end of the center LVL as well. Batter boards are up and one side dug after work today. Progress.....
I picked up a Dewalt laser level yesterday (Lowes $90) and am very impressed with it's performance. It's advertised at <.0625" in 20' and according to my builders level it's within tolerance. The beam is easily visable 30' in bright sunlight. I laid a plank diagonally across the batter boards on on end and shot down the length of the trench. Made it easy to step off the backhoe and check the depth at any time, a good trick if you're working alone.
I picked up a Dewalt laser level yesterday (Lowes $90) and am very impressed with it's performance. It's advertised at <.0625" in 20' and according to my builders level it's within tolerance. The beam is easily visable 30' in bright sunlight. I laid a plank diagonally across the batter boards on on end and shot down the length of the trench. Made it easy to step off the backhoe and check the depth at any time, a good trick if you're working alone.
whitedogone
Gold Member
Sounds like a brick outhouse! Did you see this thread?
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/152236-idea-keep-rain-fron-getting-2.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/152236-idea-keep-rain-fron-getting-2.html
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
No i didn't. That's pretty nifty.
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
What I have seen in the past is the plates and nuts cinch the 2 x 8 only and are counterbored into the bottom on the shoe. Would you expect this method to pass in today's world?
whitedogone
Gold Member
Not sure what you mean. There are a # hold downs that met code. I am unaware if anything other than standard embeded J bolts would work in the area of the portal framing. That's because that is an enginneered system so you would have to follow it excactly. When in dought it's always best to call YOUR inspector and ask. Believe it or not most of them are nice guys.
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
BTW whitedogone, I caught a break this week with my foundation inspection. We have two building inspectors in our part of the county, one a twenty something that's known to be "a challenge" and the other a semi retired builder with 30 yrs experience. Luck of the draw I got the old man. Happy Days. He laid out the whole inspection cycle with milestones in a way I understood and can follow in 10 minutes.
