FX24D Not running

[mrrooj]

I guess that plate is my only access to the underside of the engine. what looks like where the oil pan should be is bolted to frame, i would have to remove the loader belly piece, the front axle brace to even be able to undo the bolts to the underside of the motor. According to the service manual that small plate sized opening is the "pan" im guessing i need to remove the block from the frame, not sure where to begin with that. looks like some bolts from the frame go into the side of the block, i dont know how it connects to the flywheel, or if the flywheel stays with the motor. hydraulic pump and hoses need to be situated. fuel and injector pump.. hmm.. any suggestions on how to work on the connecting rod bearings on this tractor?

The drive shaft is still in the way along with oil uptake, maybe i can figure out a way to remove the uptake to inspect the bearings? the oil plate is maybe 6"x9" so not much in terms of elbow room.

service manual oil pan removal:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

obstructions:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

bolts holding the bottom of the motor to the frame:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

 

[CoyPatton]

Most tractors, not sure about an FX yanmar, the motor block is attached to the transmission making them a single unit. To remove the block from the transmission is call splitting the tractor in half.
This is a serious under taking. The separated ‘halves’ must both be supported where split.
This is why I say pull the oil pan. Again I do not know the FX, but this is usually doable on most tractors, but can be very involved—worse on subcompacts and compacts such as the FX.

 

[winston1]

I don't know anything for certain but I would think the small plate should give you enough access if you remove the drive shaft. Your oil strainer is held by two bolts.

 

[mrrooj]

Got the drive shaft off, retrieved all of the ball bearings :laughing:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Reassess how much room i had to work with it out of the way. not nearly enough.

So planning on splitting the tractor and then figuring out how im going to remove the engine block from the frame.

So far ive..

removed the dashboard, fuel tank, firewall, starter (again), disconnected: power steering lines, all the rest of the hydraulic lines that are between the front and the back, and steering wheel link.

I removed/slacked the 8ish bolts on the flywheel and then realized that my loader belly piece is holding the front and rear of the tractor together.

I think thats the last bit holding the two sides together. Going to figure out a safe way to support the two sides safely and roll them apart.

after its split it looks like there are 8 frame bolts on each side of the block holding it to the frames sides. Plan is to get a hoist to support the block, undo those 16 bolts and lower the frame to ground and then put the engine on a stand so i can flip it over and take the belly off and inspect the connecting rods.

Cleaned up and ready to split:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

 

[redman135]

mrrooj, WEDGE the front axle(both sides) to prevent the engine from flopping to one side when you get everything else disconnected

 

[redman135]

Engine sump: is a load carrying part, ie HEAVY.

 

[mrrooj]

mrrooj, WEDGE the front axle(both sides) to prevent the engine from flopping to one side when you get everything else disconnected

Got it, thanks!

 

[mrrooj]

Tractor split.
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Now I need to figure out a way to support the motor while removing the side frame bolts. Guessing a hoist would be a good idea.

 

[CoyPatton]

Tractor split.
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Now I need to figure out a way to support the motor while removing the side frame bolts. Guessing a hoist would be a good idea.

Chain hoist or if you have an adjustable height engine stand or can adjust the height of the motor/front frame are your best bets in my opinion.

 

[mrrooj]

Chain hoist or if you have an adjustable height engine stand or can adjust the height of the motor/front frame are your best bets in my opinion.

Good idea, got an engine stand from harbor freight, thinking I can jack up the engine and get it mount up. Pulled off the clutch and flywheel. But it looks like I need to remove this plate in order to remove the oil sump. Bolts are out but not sure how it's still held on. I'll keep at it when I have more light tomorrow.

Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Also misunderstood the difference between inches pounds vs foot pounds, ended up with the larger torque wrench.

Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

 

[winston1]

Looks like dowel pins in red circles. If so, they are probably holding some.

 

[blackd]

Now, that's a torque wrench!

 

[CoyPatton]

Looks like dowel pins in red circles. If so, they are probably holding some.

 

[CoyPatton]

Also misunderstood the difference between inches pounds vs foot pounds, ended up with the larger torque wrench.

Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos[/QUOTE]

Not sure this will help or not! But as a conversion factor.
12 inch pounds equals 1 foot pound. Just like basic inches to feet.

Generally speaking inch pounds are used at the lower torque ranges where accuracy is more critical or where larger torque wrenches do not go low enough.
For instance my 1/2” lowest setting is 20 ft lbs, where as my 1/4” highest setting is 180 in lbs. that leaves a bit of a gap, but has not presented an issue yet. I have yet to replace an older 3/8” that I no longer trust.

 

[YanmarFever]

If I were doing this I would paint all the black pieces with rustoleum gloss black before reassembly.

 

[mrrooj]

If I were doing this I would paint all the black pieces with rustoleum gloss black before reassembly.

That sounds like a good idea.


So I got the right sized bolts to mount up to the stand. I had to put the flywheel housing plate back on because the bolt holes in the block are too close together for the arms to reach on the stand. I did leave off the bolts towards the bottom that connect to the lower oil sump. Still trying to figure out how to get the engine high enough to mount to the stand. I did figure out that a little bit of weight on the front end and it was easy to rest the weight of the front half on the arms of the loader supports. Im able to get the mount connected with the front end faced down, trying to think if there is a way to lower it down onto the stand wheels without breaking something. Anyhow hoping to figure that out by tomorrow and finally have the motor out.

Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

 

[mrrooj]

Finally an Update!

Got the engine onto the stand, and removed the oil sump:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

pistons out:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

the rest of the photos:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

what else should i check?

is the crankshaft salvageable?

what about the badly scratched rod cap #2

My first instinct would be to replace all the bearings and the rings and slap it back together, but will the scratches on the crank and rod cap be an issue? can they smoothed out without causing other issues?

 

[winston1]

Finally an Update!

Got the engine onto the stand, and removed the oil sump:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

pistons out:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

the rest of the photos:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

what else should i check?

is the crankshaft salvageable?

what about the badly scratched rod cap #2

My first instinct would be to replace all the bearings and the rings and slap it back together, but will the scratches on the crank and rod cap be an issue? can they smoothed out without causing other issues?

Based on what I see in your pictures the crankshaft will have to be turned or replaced. Hoye shows .020" and .030" undersized inserts. I expect the middle rod would also need replacing. Not sure what you will find with the main bearings when you remove the crankshaft. Best I can remember without reading back through this whole thread the oil pump was never mentioned. You sure need to take a close look at it. Can you feel any looseness in the piston pin bushings?

 

[mrrooj]

I found a shop that works on crankshafts, they are taking a look at the photos. I will check for wear on the main bearings and piston pin bushings.. Im not sure what to look for on the oil pump. (any help here?)

also where do you see the undersized inserts at hoye? oh would it be this:
Rod brg., .2 (.5 mm): Yanmar Tractor Parts

EDIT: never mind i do see the undersized bearings listed with the regular ones now.

Thanks

 

[winston1]

I found a shop that works on crankshafts, they are taking a look at the photos. I will check for wear on the main bearings and piston pin bushings.. Im not sure what to look for on the oil pump. (any help here?)

also where do you see the undersized inserts at hoye? oh would it be this:
Rod brg., .2 (.5 mm): Yanmar Tractor Parts

EDIT: never mind i do see the undersized bearings listed with the regular ones now.

Thanks

Never laid eyes on the oil pump and yours is behind the front gear cover. Something happened to cause your rod bearing failure. No or low oil pressure would be one main cause. It would be bad to put it back together without oil pressure. Probably nothing wrong with it but are you willing to chance it?

What do your cam lobes look like? Are they good and smooth?