FX24D Not running

[winston1]

Most factory installed loaders that are quick disconnect the valve stays on the tractor. Therefore the reason for having disconnects on the 4 loader lines. Different manufacturers have different ways on fastening the valve on the tractor. On my old 2002D it had a Bulldog quick connect loader but was not plumbed for quick disconnect. I removed the valve from the loader frame, fastened it to the loader support and added quick disconnects. Looks like your Koyker is a quick disconnect loader.

 

[mrrooj]

Progress today!

Went to my local hose guy and got caps and the double sided jic connector to mate the two hoses.

Oil/Filter change

Put injectors back in, broke the little return fuel hoses on the injector tops so had to make some new ones.

Was getting dark so rushing to get glow plug wires back on.

Wife was hanging out in the tractor bay and figured she could video so what the heck, lets fire it up.

First try:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Started up! lots of smoke and there was that clanging noise i heard way back when, as soon as it started stuff was hitting my face.

Second try:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos
second try from my perspective:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

def bubbles in the radiator so that means blown head gasket right?

A look at the valves steaming after just those two starts:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

mild victory, i think really it was just a starter issue from the start and it took me a long time to get to this point but **** that was satisfying..


So, whats next?

 

[CoyPatton]

In the last video, the steam/smoke coming around the push rods, for the first few seconds there was steam coming from 3 push rods. What that likely means is that super heated coolant is finding its way into that area of the engine. Your comment was steam around the valves. But the valves are where the springs are located. That is only indirectly from the cylinder at worse.
The second video would not load for me, but bubbles in the radiator support a blown head gasket as does the steam around the push rods.
Next step—head gasket job.
Also plan to take the head to a machine shop to be checked for cracks and if warped.

 

[winston1]

Head gasket minimum, but based on the needed wind up to start and compression test numbers I wouldn't doubt rings are in order.

 

[blackd]

I agree with both Winson1 and Coy's comments. Taking the head off is minimal work at this point. Consider new head bolts when reinstalling.

 

[winston1]

I have done a head job on an FX24D and the head bolts are one time use only. HEAD BOLTS (Each): Yanmar Tractor Parts

 

[mrrooj]

Current Plan:

Remove head and inspect.

couple of questions:
1.) Trying to figure out the correct engine specs, my valve cover shows this: 3TNB84-UAP image: Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos Under valve cover i see: "X3" and "TN82" image: Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos The yanmar thread on motors for the FX24D specifies: that it has a 3TN84U-A link:https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/11226-engine-your-yanmar-15.html#post4024340 I found a this service manual: http://golftechs.us/Manuals/JD220dieselengine.pdf Looks like my engine in the 2nd section of the manual. It specifies: Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos
Compression Pressure
3TN82, 3TNA82, 3TN84 (870 CUT, 955 CUT) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2448 kPa (355 psi)
3TN84 (3014 OEM) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2158 kPa (313 psi)
Maximum Difference Between Cylinders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 490 kPa (71 psi)

Not too far off from my compression tests. Is this service manual the correct one? or close enough?

2.) Oil Pressure Dash Light: so throughout this process of cranking the motor the Oil light was for the most part lit up. A few times i saw it go out after cranking, After changing the oil and getting the starter cleaned up the light has seemed to go out for good. Oil pressure light would presumably be lit on startup after its been sitting right? wondering why my oil light is not lit on startup.

3.) Oil change: changed the oil, when i poured the old oil out of the catch the bottom of the oil had a few small pieces of what looked like thin metal shavings like no larger than 2 millimeter, and thin like gold foil thin. and lots of fine shimmery metal when the last of the oil poured out. It was under direct sunlight and it was literally like fine glittery oil. I know thats not a great sign but thought id mention it.


Exhaust manifold, intake manifold came off with no issues, i did soak the nuts in pbblaster overnight but and they came off easily, seemed almost a little too easy. A pretty cheap impact driver took them off with almost no fight.

 

[winston1]

No doubt 3 is 3 cylinder, T is tractor, but then we get to your NB designation. The manual you attached shows only NA which the manual says NA indicates engine type and NA is diesel. Well, we know yours is diesel but what does that B stand for?? :confused3: I can only wonder since compression changes from the NA's 355 psi to the N's 313 psi if it wouldn't also change with the NB designation. :confused3:

For what it is worth the 276 Yanmar has a 3T84HA engine and the factory manual states compression to be 497 to 569 psi at 300 rpm. My conclusion to what your compression should be is "I don't know".

Your second point about the oil light. Yes, your oil light should come on when you turn the key to the on position and stay on until oil pressure is achieved. Something amiss with yours if that is not happening.

Maybe your shavings in oil was brass fragments?????

 

[CoyPatton]

I agree with Winston1 on your oil light. My 1st guess would be the wire is grounded out somewhere. Could you have bumped it off during the oil change and it is now against metal?

 

[California]

NA in the engine model could be Normally Aspirated. (no turbocharger).

 

[winston1]

NA in the engine model could be Normally Aspirated. (no turbocharger).

Do you have any idea for the NB?

Don't want to start a new thread but been missing clemsonfor, he hasn't posted since May. Unlike him.

 

[mrrooj]

Do you have any idea for the NB?

Don't want to start a new thread but been missing clemsonfor, he hasn't posted since May. Unlike him.

maybe a typo? :laughing:

 

[California]

Do you have any idea for the NB?

No, no idea. 'NA' occurred to me because the compression spec is a little higher than some of those other engines listed. While an engine designed for a turbocharger will sometimes have a lower compression ratio.

 

[mrrooj]

This is whats in the service manual im using:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

 

[winston1]

This is whats in the service manual im using:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Yes, I read that, but that does not explain your plain engine tag with NB on it.

 

[mrrooj]

Yes, I read that, but that does not explain your plain engine tag with NB on it.

Thats true but wanted to point out that NA means Diesel in that manual and not Naturally Aspirated. but who knows, i cant find a lot info on my specific motor.


So i got the head off, everything to me looks as expected except that the middle cylinder (with the lowest compression numbers). When i rotate the crank and watch the pistons move i noticed that the middle piston does not come flush to the deck. It sits maybe a 1/16ish below. The other two piston heads come to the top and maybe even a hair proud. Maybe that explains the lower compression? also what would be the cause for this?

Cleaning the head and block were a lot more difficult than i thought it would be, there was very hard to remove bits on it, I still think it needs more cleaning but the only way i could get it off was with some WD40 and a razor blade. When i scraped against some areas it was like a silver-ish compound , i thought i was scraping the metal at first but it eventually comes off to reveal the cast iron. I see some hairline scratches from me scraping at it, i hope thats not going to be an issue. But overall it looks better than what i was expecting to see from some other forum post/ youtube videos of older tractors. I tried to identify where the head gasket had failed but it wasnt obvious to me.

about to make an order for the gaskets and bolts but a little worried about that middle piston now. should i be?, should i attempt to remove the cam and inspect or piston?

And do you think that i should spend more time cleaning up the surfaces? and what works best for you guys?



piston #1
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

piston #2
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

piston #3
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Head with the gasket on:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Head cleaned up:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Block prior to cleaning:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/KCAULVMTeefTGN6W7

Block cleaned up:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UdGGjKw7JnTA3zT19

 

[CoyPatton]

Thats true but wanted to point out that NA means Diesel in that manual and not Naturally Aspirated. but who knows, i cant find a lot info on my specific motor.


So i got the head off, everything to me looks as expected except that the middle cylinder (with the lowest compression numbers). When i rotate the crank and watch the pistons move i noticed that the middle piston does not come flush to the deck. It sits maybe a 1/16ish below. The other two piston heads come to the top and maybe even a hair proud. Maybe that explains the lower compression? also what would be the cause for this?

Cleaning the head and block were a lot more difficult than i thought it would be, there was very hard to remove bits on it, I still think it needs more cleaning but the only way i could get it off was with some WD40 and a razor blade. When i scraped against some areas it was like a silver-ish compound , i thought i was scraping the metal at first but it eventually comes off to reveal the cast iron. I see some hairline scratches from me scraping at it, i hope thats not going to be an issue. But overall it looks better than what i was expecting to see from some other forum post/ youtube videos of older tractors. I tried to identify where the head gasket had failed but it wasnt obvious to me.

about to make an order for the gaskets and bolts but a little worried about that middle piston now. should i be?, should i attempt to remove the cam and inspect or piston?

And do you think that i should spend more time cleaning up the surfaces? and what works best for you guys?



piston #1
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

piston #2
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

piston #3
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Head with the gasket on:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Head cleaned up:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Block prior to cleaning:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/KCAULVMTeefTGN6W7

Block cleaned up:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UdGGjKw7JnTA3zT19

I think you should be very concerned about that #2 piston not coming to full height! Yes that would indeed affect your compression numbers as the gasses are less compressed. There is something wrong lower in the engine causing this condition.
Some possibilities—failed wrist pin on rod and piston connection; broken and pieces of the rod to crank shaft bearing missing; bend rod; and on.... Any of these conditions could explain your abnormal noise you mentioned.
Bottom line now is to pull the oil pan to see what you find.
Make your parts list, but do not order yet.

 

[winston1]

I agree with Coy, no way I would put the head back on without pulling the pan and having a closer look at #2 at the very minimum.

 

[mrrooj]

well removing the plate on the oil pan was easy enough but there is a drive shaft blocking the oil pan. How do you remove that? if thats out of the way then i think i can drop the entire pan.

not so good looking stuff in the pan:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos
video: Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

 

[winston1]

Don't know whether you got the drive shaft off or not. Pretty sure it is similar the this one. Lot's of pictures if you need them. Clunking in 4WD - what could be wrong? - Yanmar Tractor Support Message Board