Oil & Fuel Fuel dribbling at injector on Yanmar 3110D - bad injector pump? (video)

[normde2001]

You should be starting at full throttle then backing off after starting at all times.

 

[drunderw]

You should be starting at full throttle then backing off after starting at all times.

Good to know, thanks for that info. The guy I purchased mine from told me to pull it back just until you hear the click and start it. I'd been starting it that way and without the compression release.

 

[California]

Yanmar's manuals say start at full throttle and pull back (US Yanmars) as soon as it catches, then 1500 rpm warmup. I don't like to hear it run that hard in the first instant while the oil is still cold. 1/3 throttle has always been sufficient, and makes less smoke.

And be sure to spin it up with compression released, then let go of the compression release lever after a moment so that the inertia of the spinning flywheel assists the starter motor in cranking through the first couple of strokes.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Norm is correct..

 

[clemsonfor]

That's strange. Do you use any two stroke oil or like power service or sea foam in your fuel? Anything for extra lubrication since we have USLD?

 

[drunderw]

That's strange. Do you use any two stroke oil or like power service or sea foam in your fuel? Anything for extra lubrication since we have USLD?

I haven't ever added anything to it other than a bottle of diesel cleaner additive which I did the first time it shut down in April. I've since drained that tank, so pure diesel in it right now.

 

[clemsonfor]

I would keep some two stroke oil in the fuel for lubrication, since the tractor was designed around fuel that is a bit different than todays ULSD fuels we have today.

 

[drunderw]

Time for an update. I sent the pump and injectors off to thepumpguysc who I am very thankful for taking a look at and for his guidance. The injectors looked ok but the pump had worn parts and in the end he suggested I try it after cleaning or may be better off getting a new one from Hoye. I went ahead an purchased a new one from Hoye since those parts were worn and I'd seen low levels of fuel coming out of the lines. I'd also gotten a recommendation to replace it from a farmer at the ag club that I attend. It arrives today. I've also gotten all new fuel lines (aside from the metal ones), new fuel filter, new air filter, and drained the tank and flushed it. I'm going to begin the process of putting things back together to see how things go.

Question
Based on my shop manual it would appear all I need to do is put the same number of shims in place as I had with the old pump (2). I purchased new shims from Hoye as well and will verify they are the same thickness as the ones I remove but I expect that to be the case. I just want to verify, is that all that is needed as far as timing on the new pump?

 

[HoyeTractor]

Based on my shop manual it would appear all I need to do is put the same number of shims in place as I had with the old pump (2). I purchased new shims from Hoye as well and will verify they are the same thickness as the ones I remove but I expect that to be the case. I just want to verify, is that all that is needed as far as timing on the new pump?

Using the same shims will get you in the ballpark. To get it really dialed in you will need to follow Yanmar's timing procedure. If you shoot me an email I will reply back with a scan of that procedure from the service manual. We also appreciate your business!

 

[thepumpguysc]

The injectors were ok after cleaning.. BUT the pump was worn out.. the pump from Hoye was very reasonable & easier to just replace than rebuild.
Dam near the same price w/ less the wait, for shipping of parts..
IF it saves the customer $.. I'm all for it.. I let folks know of available lower cost pumps VS rebuilds, ALL THE TIME.. I'm here TO HELP.. not buy a new truck or send the kids thru college.. AND.. my house is paid for.. lol

Timing> just swap over the shims from the old pump.. but seeing you bought new shims.. follow Aarons advice..