FT 60 stopped running. Need help troubleshooting

[thepumpguysc]

Sounds like a plan..
I too turned down a job for this weekend, just to darn hot..
Some folks get confused by "loosen the lines AT the injectors & work/pump the HPrimer"..
They think fuel should come out of the lines while they pump the hp.. not so.. the HP is just to make sure fuel is in the pumping chamber & it takes the engine/pump TURNING {crank the engine} inorder to get the fuel to come out of the lines at the injectors..{just to clarify}

 

[thepumpguysc]

When refilling the pump w/ OIL.. remember, your filling/adding oil to THE GOVERNOR.. the oil has to pass thru a set of bearing inorder to fill/lube THE PUMP camshaft & front bearing.. IT TAKES AWHILE for the oil to squeeze past the rear bearing & enter the PUMP..
so don't get impatient.. The "full" plug on the governor might show full, but the PUMP may still be dry, need oil..
Add 1/2 qt or more & have a smoke..lol.. Give it time to seep into the PUMP chamber..
The pump body has a "vent" on the back side, as you already know, so adding MORE THAN NEEDED will just come out the vent..
Let us know how it worked out for ya.. & I'm usually around, if you need anymore info.. TPG

 

[weathda]

The pump in your picture shows a #2 overflow that is not on my pump, I think. I think for my tractors the level port is a little behind and to the right of the primer pump.

I wasn't sure. My Farmtrac has the rotary pump. I'm glad pumpguy is around. He definitely knows his stuff and can explain it much better than the manuals.

How do you like the Kubota 2501?

I like it. It's been incredibly dependable compact tractor. In fact, I put 4 hours on it today clipping some pasture. It was bought new in 1984 and has been in the family ever since. This bushhog is the same vintage and was bought new with the tractor. I did some welding and reinforcing on it and gave it some lip stick. Neither one of them know when to stop. LOL

 

[thepumpguysc]

Weathda> would you post a pic of your inj. pump??
Some of them have a "cold start" devise on them that IMPLODE the inj. pump if not maintained properly..
I just wanna keep you going for many years to come..

 

[weathda]

I do. Are you talking about the cold start advance located behind the hand-primer pump? All I know about is it activates during cold starts for about 10 minutes. The slightest load on the engine makes it sound like the valves are about break out of the engine. I typically unplug the electrical clip in the summer time because I don't figure I need the advance.

I've not been able to tell a difference when starting when using it and not. Please do tell what else about maintaining it. I just soon not use the advance at all.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Yes that's it.. All you have to do is change the fuel filters REGULARLY..
I wouldn't rely on "the book" time & hrs.. Change them at least 2x a year.. regardless of hours used.
The filters get clogged & it starts to suck air & the advance piston starts to hammer & the pump implodes..
& is VERY expensive to repair or replace.

 

[weathda]

Alright, good to know.. Ever since I found trash in the tank (from previous owner), stopped up filter screen and dirty filters, I've been changing them fairly often. It hasn't given any trouble in a couple of years. It actually been a pretty good tractor overall.

 

[Suburban600]

Fuel spurting at #3 (rear injector) but not #1 or #2. I cranked several times. Manual says there could be air in line (I'll try again tomorrow). The manual also says the plunger spring may be broken or the plunger is seized or badly damaged.

 

[Clint S]

This is good to know as I have the that pump. I am going to unplug mine for the summer too.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Just take off the side cover, behind the hand primer.. to access the springs & plunger.
That way you can SEE what its doing..
The screw is METRIC.. probably a 10mm or an Allan screw, 4 or 5mm.
If the plunger is stuck up.. its possible to "knock" it down.. just use finesse.