Frozen loader valve

[burk1953]

My loader valve on my B7510 freezes. If I let the tractor warm up for 20-30 thirty minutes ( it depends on the ambient temp. ) It will start working slowly at first until it warms up. I've changed the oil and it looks good. Is there an additive to use? Replace the loader valve? I've talked to my dealer and he said he's never heard of it happening.

 

[wdchyd]

Water in the valve bonnet cover......cover needs to come off to clean and lubricate

The cover is on the backside of the valve spool

Common problem

 

[J_J]

Although you have changed the oil, was it the right fluid for your climate?

Hyd fluid does not normally freeze, so it must have some moisture in it or like wdchyd said, there is moisture in the cans on the bottom of the valve where the centering springs and float assembly are located.

You can accelerate the temp by hold the loader valve or 3pt lever in relief for maybe 10 min. Then feel the valve and see if things are warming up.

Do a crackle test and see if any moisture is present.

 

[vtsnowedin]

A heat lamp held close to it for a while if you have power that can reach will get you going or a tea kettle full of boiling water drizzled over the ends of the spools (so it doesn't rundown into the mechanism) if your too far from the plug. Like they^ said it's most likely moisture that has got past the weather boot and is gumming up the works. If you had water in the Hydo oil itself it would be milky white from being emulsified as it goes through the pump. (Been there done that.)

 

[burk1953]

The hydraulic oil is good. I will take the valve apart and clean it up. How do I keep water out of the valve once I get it cleaned up? Should I clean the valve on a regular basis? The tractor is garage kept and rarely run in the rain. The only heavy water that it gets is from washing. This has been my only real problem since it has been new. I know when I put the mower deck up for the winter I pressure wash it up good grease it and let it run a little to get the water out of the spindles. This could be another set getting it ready for the winter. Thanks for the help

 

[vtsnowedin]

I suspect the pressure washer is the culprit. Slip a garbage bag over the valve when you wash or just take care to leave it be.

 

[Dan W]

I suspect the pressure washer is the culprit. Slip a garbage bag over the valve when you wash or just take care to leave it be.

Burk, I have the same issue with my loader valve on the B7800, have to leave it warm up for about 15 minutes. The loader will move fine up & down but the bucket won't curl, frozen solid. I didn't consider water getting in, but this sounds very likely.
JJ, would you tell me what a crackle test is, never heard of this test... Thanks

Dan

 

[J_J]

A crackle test is where you heat up some hyd fluid on a piece of tinfoil and listen and watch for the hiss of water and watching the bubbles form. If it is good fluid, it will char if the heat is left on it.

Apply heat from the bottom.

You could probably use a spoon and a lighter or small torch.

If you have water in the fluid, you will hear it crackle, hiss, or pop.

Most of the cans on the bottom of the valve has a small hole in it to drain any moisture, It should be pointed down.

 

[Dan W]

Very good JJ thanks for this, I'll run this test tomorrow morning.
We're expecting-28C overnight, with the wind chill tomorrow, might get to-35C....
I won't ask how nice the weather is in Jacksonville
Dan

 

[Industrial Toys]

I don't know the machine, but I have the same problems on several machines. Major PITA! Problem is the cables not the valve itself.

 

[RFB]

" Problem is the cables..."

IT, How did you diagnose the issue?

 

[easygo]

My loader valve has been doing the same for four years and I put a heat lamp near by for 15-20 minutes. Can anyone post a picture what part needs to be cleaned and lubed? I don't know what part is a the valve bonnet cover. Thanks

 

[burk1953]

This doesn't have cables thankfully. I will take the valve off tomorrow and see what I find and also check the oil as JJ suggested. The oil was new this summer and the oil I removed looked good but I don't want to do this again. They are saying below 0 on Tuesday. I will make this part of the fall maintenance but it doesn't have a problem when it's warm LOL. And I have a good hydraulic shop close by if I mess up.

The older I get the more I think about moving south.

 

[J_J]

My loader valve has been doing the same for four years and I put a heat lamp near by for 15-20 minutes. Can anyone post a picture what part needs to be cleaned and lubed? I don't know what part is a the valve bonnet cover. Thanks

On the bottom of the valve there are two small covers that protect the ends of the spool and contain the float and spool centering assembly. Usually have two screws each holding them on..

2 SPOOL COMPACT 10 GPM JOYSTICK CONTROL VALVE

There are two silver can/covers on the bottom of the valve.

 

[easygo]

Thanks for the help JJ. I went to take a picture of my loader valve as it looks quite different from the one you posted. Are these the parts that I need to take out and clean/lube? Also. If I take these parts off, are there a bunch of small parts that will be lunched into outer space by a spring or it will be simple (I hope I picked the appropriate color for the arrows) It is unfortunate that I know nothing about this. Thanks for the help.

?

 

[J_J]

It would be best if you had a manual for that valve so if anything did spring out, you could re-install.

There are springs and little steel balls inside the cans.

If you break it sown, have a bowl under the valve to catch any parts that may spring or fall out.

Inspect it, clean if needed, and lube everything.

 

[art]

You do not need to remove the valve!!!! On the bottom of the valves are two covers that protect the valve from weather and they tend to get moisture build up in them from the changing seasons. When removing the covers which normally is with allen wrenches sometimes the balls and spring get out of place and you might loose them while taking them apart! We put grease in them to the point of being about 1/3 full. Filling this cavity has been the best solution we have found. We tried small holes in the bottom but it does not work as well as the grease.

An other problem with the joysticks and the remote cables is that between the hot and cold of the cab the cables will get condensation in them and freeze as well! When this happens if the cables are not rusty we again dismantle and coat with grease before installation. When the valve bodies are located below the lowest part of the cable some issues with the cables go away with their ability to drain. Newer tractors are coming thru with the valves mounted lower so the problem with the cables has not been as prevalent.

 

[burk1953]

easygo's valve looks like mine. On the ends of the valve (the hex pieces on the bottom) there is not an allen cap screw or cap that I can find. JJ do you know where I can get a parts sheet or manual on the valve?