Oil & Fuel Ford 1920 fuel filter mysterious spring

[kirkawilson]

Hmm...you do have a strange problem. Another thought is that the power to your fuel solenoid shutoff is fed from your ingition switch through a fuse block to the to the solenoid. You might wiggle your ignition switch when it starts acting up and see if the terminal points in the switch are bad. Also, you might pull the fusesto check and reseat them to make sure they are tight.
Another thing I have done is used a jump box to apply 12V to the fuel solenoid connections to keep the solenoid valve open. I just 'bungeed' my jump box to the front end loader frame to hold it in place and connected the jump cables to the solenoid terminals. If this fixes your problem, then you have an electrical issue somewhere in the power feed to your solenoid.

 

[Danica]

Hmm...you do have a strange problem. Another thought is that the power to your fuel solenoid shutoff is fed from your ingition switch through a fuse block to the to the solenoid. You might wiggle your ignition switch when it starts acting up and see if the terminal points in the switch are bad. Also, you might pull the fusesto check and reseat them to make sure they are tight.
Another thing I have done is used a jump box to apply 12V to the fuel solenoid connections to keep the solenoid valve open. I just 'bungeed' my jump box to the front end loader frame to hold it in place and connected the jump cables to the solenoid terminals. If this fixes your problem, then you have an electrical issue somewhere in the power feed to your solenoid.

Replaced solenoid and checked voltage to it as the die down process began. I totally think that it is possible that this fuel starvation issue could be linked to erratic voltage to the solenoid but why would it always start happening when the temp gauge reaches a certain point (right in the middle). When I put voltmeter on solenoid as engine slowly dies down (more like it is trying to maintain say 1,500 rpm but just loses it and I can watch the needle jump back and forth until it can’t maintain 1,300 then lower and lower…

Checked terminal points and reseated all fuses too, btw. This one really has me in a quandary. The saga goes on in a more recent thread that has generated 10pp of ideas. The best one now sounds like replacing the 22 year old fuel lines would be prudent…

 

[JC-jetro]

Replaced solenoid and checked voltage to it as the die down process began. I totally think that it is possible that this fuel starvation issue could be linked to erratic voltage to the solenoid but why would it always start happening when the temp gauge reaches a certain point (right in the middle). When I put voltmeter on solenoid as engine slowly dies down (more like it is trying to maintain say 1,500 rpm but just loses it and I can watch the needle jump back and forth until it can’t maintain 1,300 then lower and lower…

Checked terminal points and reseated all fuses too, btw. This one really has me in a quandary. The saga goes on in a more recent thread that has generated 10pp of ideas. The best one now sounds like replacing the 22 year old fuel lines would be prudent…

Now try to get wire directly from the battery to solenoid, remove the old connector to solenoid. This is basically bypassing the solenoid and manually keep it open. obviously you cannot kill the tractor by switch but can verify it is the circuit interruption rather than the solenoid.

 

[Danica]

Now try to get wire directly from the battery to solenoid, remove the old connector to solenoid. This is basically bypassing the solenoid and manually keep it open. obviously you cannot kill the tractor by switch but can verify it is the circuit interruption rather than the solenoid.

I will try this. Nothing else has worked and new fuel hoses don’t arrive for a few days.

 

[JC-jetro]

I will try this. Nothing else has worked and new fuel hoses don’t arrive for a few days.

Just have to keep at it, eventually you will crack the code. Fooling the solenoid to keep it open can be effective to eliminate intermittent electrical signal.

 

[Danica]

Just have to keep at it, eventually you will crack the code. Fooling the solenoid to keep it open can be effective to eliminate intermittent electrical signal.

Yeah new solenoid and four hoses later have same issue. Since it *seems* temp related I’m going to flush the radiator as that prob hasn’t been done in 10 years if ever.

 

[Danica]

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[stevem5215]

My Ford 1900 would run about 10minutes and then die. I'd leave it sit for 5 minutes and then crank and crank and crank and it'd start and run again for another 10 and die again. I found on mine that there was blockage (bees actually) in the fuel inlet blocking the fuel coming in. I found it by taking the line off the bottom of the tank and turning the fuel on and it basically dribbled out. After cleaning the tank of the junk in the bottom with a siphoning hose and then using a paint filter and dumping the fuel back in filtered that the tractor was fine afterwards and fuel POURED out of the bottom of the tank. Not a problem after that. Bugs in the tank literally!

 

[Danica]

My Ford 1900 would run about 10minutes and then die. I'd leave it sit for 5 minutes and then crank and crank and crank and it'd start and run again for another 10 and die again. I found on mine that there was blockage (bees actually) in the fuel inlet blocking the fuel coming in. I found it by taking the line off the bottom of the tank and turning the fuel on and it basically dribbled out. After cleaning the tank of the junk in the bottom with a siphoning hose and then using a paint filter and dumping the fuel back in filtered that the tractor was fine afterwards and fuel POURED out of the bottom of the tank. Not a problem after that. Bugs in the tank literally!

Yep, same thing just happened to a frien about two weeks ago but in this case he (foolishly) left the cap off a 5 gal fuel container for a couple weeks in the shed. Wasps made a pretty big nest then died. He then unknowingly poured this ‘bee soup’ in his tank. Got 20 min of running before no go.

In my case, while the engine slowly loses RPMs the fuel still comes gushing out of tank if I disconnect hose to filter bowl.

 

[Danica]

Just have to keep at it, eventually you will crack the code. Fooling the solenoid to keep it open can be effective to eliminate intermittent electrical signal.

Yes I have def checked fuel flow on both sides of filter housing while it did this and no problem. I am nearly positive this pre-1999 shibauru engine does not have a lift pump.

I have a diesel mechanic coming over for $40/hr Friday so will se what he has to say. I did replace the solenoid but totally understand that I could remove the elect connection going to the key switch and direct connected to the POSITIVE (??) terminal of battery. Sorry, electrical stuff quickly becomes overwhelming for me. Nonetheless, this will be first time I’d 20 years with two tractors that I needed to bring in a ‘consultant’

Someone else had suggested this and I’d swear they said pos batt term to solenoid would force it in the open position. I just never tried it but now it is more clear that an electrical (harness) issue could be leading to the fuel starvation symptoms.