Ford 1720 coolant piece broke in block

[swarley814]

Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? I have a 1990 ford 1720 that had a coolant hose leak down by the drain, tried to take the hose off the replace it and the nipple it attaches to broke. I tried removing the whole piece that threads into the block and that also snapped off. I had a breaker bar on it when it snapped so I got some good torque on it and the threads didn’t break loose. That makes me think using an easy out probably won’t work. Any other ideas or am I SOL?View attachment IMG_7838.jpeg

 

[Sportsman762]

I would clean up the area and dry it off. Then i would try squirting penetrating oil on the threads (WD40 is not penetrating oil) and keep it wet for a week or so. Then I would try an ez out and see if I could get it out. Don't snap off the ez out!!!

If that fails, I would use a die grinder or dremel and see about grinding the metal down, until I could just see the threads in two areas on opposite sides. DO NOT damage the threads. Put a rag in first to keep metal out of the engine. Then I would take the ez out and put it in, making sure the teeth of the EZ out were not on my ground down areas. In theory the ground down areas will flex allowing the ez out to unthread the broke piece.

If that fails I would grind two more areas down. Making sure to put a rag in first to keep the metal out of the engine. Then i would use a cold chisel and try to spin the broken piece out.

If that fails I would then use the cold chisel to beat the pieces in collapsing the broken part. Once you get one piece broke out, the rest will most likely fall out with a tap.

There are other ways to handle this, however this would be my approach. Take your time and don't damage the threads. Also don't use a breaker bar on the ez out, your changes of breaking it off are too high.

 

[swarley814]

Thank you, just ordered an ez out set that has one large enough for that size. Hoping I can break it free.

 

[swarley814]

Also, is this piece only meant for draining coolant out of the block? The tractor is getting pretty rough anyway so worst case scenario would i be able to just plug that hole if i can't get the old plug out? Obviously i would no longer be able to drain the coolant out of the block but would that be the only difference?

 

[pmsmechanic]

Alternately you could drill the hole out to the right size for a pipe tap and thread the hole. Either plug it with a brass pipe plug or pipe threaded valve. If only using it for draining the block a brass plug would be good enough.

 

[TMGT]

I wouldn't recommend a tapered extractor, they have a tendency to damage castings from the pressure they exert.

Look for a splined style for pipe, they are specific to size.

If that doesn't work, the die grinder mentioned earlier, very carfully with a carbide burr or even a stone, cut into the fitting as deep as possible without getting into the threads in 2-3 places, then collapse the peices.
It's a not easy and has the risk of damaging the bung, but sometimes it's the only choice.

 

[thclimer]

That thing can cause a lot of problems:

Ford 1920 antifreeze leak at block fitting

 

[swarley814]

Thanks for the replies, I tried the ez out this morning and got a good bite on it but it still didn't want to break free. I put some pretty good pressure on it but think i might break the ez out if i try any harder. Ill let it soak in pb blaster for a few more days and try again, if that doesn't work then i will break out the dremel and see what i can do.

 

[2515R Dude]

Drill it and tap for a pipe thread.

 

[Williy]

Perhaps if you drill it out and leave enough medal so a easy out
could get a grip after soaking with penatrating oil??

willy

 

[etpm]

Thanks for the replies, I tried the ez out this morning and got a good bite on it but it still didn't want to break free. I put some pretty good pressure on it but think i might break the ez out if i try any harder. Ill let it soak in pb blaster for a few more days and try again, if that doesn't work then i will break out the dremel and see what i can do.

You could also just use a file to file through the wall of the pipe until threads start to show. There is a tool made for removing pipe nipples that most good hardware stores sell. This tool has splines and a splined wheel that has a hole drilled off center. When inserted into a pipe and turned the wheel cams outward and grabs the inside of the pipe. Cutting a groove in the pipe wall and then using some penetrating oil along with the tool could just do the trick. Just let the penetrating oil soak in for a while.
Eric

 

[pmsmechanic]

Drill it and tap for a pipe thread.

I thought this too but it's the threads between the fitting and the block that are causing issues. So to properly fix this the fitting needs to be removed from the block.

 

[pmsmechanic]

You could also just use a file to file through the wall of the pipe until threads start to show. There is a tool made for removing pipe nipples that most good hardware stores sell. This tool has splines and a splined wheel that has a hole drilled off center. When inserted into a pipe and turned the wheel cams outward and grabs the inside of the pipe. Cutting a groove in the pipe wall and then using some penetrating oil along with the tool could just do the trick. Just let the penetrating oil soak in for a while.
Eric

I've used a similar idea only cutting with a hacksaw blade. Just wrap a rag around the blade to protect you hands and start making a slot in the fitting. Once you have reached the threads quit cutting and use a punch and hammer to slightly collapse the fitting. You might have to cut two slots but once the threads are loosened up the fitting will easily come out.

 

[etpm]

I've used a similar idea only cutting with a hacksaw blade. Just wrap a rag around the blade to protect you hands and start making a slot in the fitting. Once you have reached the threads quit cutting and use a punch and hammer to slightly collapse the fitting. You might have to cut two slots but once the threads are loosened up the fitting will easily come out.

I like the hacksaw idea. Because the pipe is probably rusted in place, and because rust expands which makes things tight, slightly collapsing with a punch is a good idea. The broken pipe doesn't need to be saved, it just needs removal.
Eric

 

[Sportsman762]

Thanks for the replies, I tried the ez out this morning and got a good bite on it but it still didn't want to break free.

Slow down and try to get some penetrating oil in the threads. It has been a day, and that is not enough time for the darned oil to soak in. Another term for penetrating oil is creeping oil.

I would clean up the area and dry it off. Then i would try squirting penetrating oil on the threads (WD40 is not penetrating oil) and keep it wet for a week or so.

The process is slow, speed is what got you into this situation, patience will get you out. To reiterate: put penetrating oil on the threads and keep it wet for a week or so.

 

[dicktill]

Slow down and try to get some penetrating oil in the threads. It has been a day, and that is not enough time for the darned oil to soak in. Another term for penetrating oil is creeping oil.

The process is slow, speed is what got you into this situation, patience will get you out. To reiterate: put penetrating oil on the threads and keep it wet for a week or so.

Good advice from @ Sportsman762!

Also, I have noticed in one or more of the attached links to other threads, that this fitting might be/is British (BSPP or BSPT?). Best to not replace it with an American NPT fitting: they have different thread angles.

 

[dieselscout80]

Once I got mine out on my TC45DA I used this to replace that valve. It threaded right in it also works great and it’s easy to drain my antifreeze.


EZ-201(NPT 3/4-14) EZ Oil Drain... Amazon.com

 

[swarley814]

I was able to get the old piece out of there. Ended up drilling it out and running a 3/4 bsp tap to clean up the threads. Unfortunately I am getting deployed overseas on friday so I didn't have the luxury of time to let the penetrating oil soak and get the tractor going before i leave. @Sportsman762 Just waiting on the replacement part to show up so i can get it back together and going. Thanks