food plot and soil improvement.

[vtsnowedin]

I want to plant some food plots and do it in a way that improves the soil biology so that the same ground might serve as a food production plot in the future if some of the doomerish predictions come to pass. At any rate having the ground more capable for production then it is today is a good goal. The first ground I am considering is a top of the ridge plot that has been pasture and then corn and has now laid fallow for twenty years with some areas grown up to black berries and emergent tree species as high as thirty feet.
I'm thinking of clearing any brush and trees (using my tractor) then plowing under the sod then picking the rocks. (always plenty of them) then planting a green manure crop of legumes like red clover and oats then plowing that under and after the proper wait time planting a mix of soy beans tillage turnips , radishes and winter cereal rye to get a good mixed stand regardless of what the weather gives me after planting.
This plot will be available for wildlife such a white tailed deer does and fawns but will have to be guarded in November through December by licensed riflemen to insure that no horned buck steals the does feed.

 

[dave1949]

It probably needs lime. Check the soil pH.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I forgot to mention that. I'll check it for sure. Back when we did corn the soil tests called for six tons per acre and I applied quite a bit. That is probably why the poplar trees that have sprung up on the bottom of the slope have done so well. .

 

[dave1949]

I like the plan.

Once the snow is gone and things dry up, I'm looking forward to getting back to work on my field reclaiming project. Trees and stumps are gone, still have 2-3 acres of rocks to pick. I planted some northern pasture mix (timothy, orchard grass, some clover) in a small finished area last fall to what happens. I'd sure like to see some green this spring. :laughing:

 

[vtsnowedin]

I like the plan.

Once the snow is gone and things dry up, I'm looking forward to getting back to work on my field reclaiming project. Trees and stumps are gone, still have 2-3 acres of rocks to pick. I planted some northern pasture mix (timothy, orchard grass, some clover) in a small finished area last fall to what happens. I'd sure like to see some green this spring. :laughing:

I suggest we should have dueling pictures of our results.

 

[dave1949]

How do you apply your lime?

A hay farmer near me suggested chicken litter with lime added to it. Not sure how I would spread that either.

 

[dave1949]

I suggest we should have dueling pictures of our results.

Good idea. I have a thread about it here in Projects: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/printthread.php?t=287487&pp=10

Funny thing is when I search for it, it finds it in Lawn World ???

I think I'm starting at a disadvantage soil-wise. My field was probably never better than thin pasture.

 

[vtsnowedin]

How do you apply your lime?

A hay farmer near me suggested chicken litter with lime added to it. Not sure how I would spread that either.

Well that is a long story.
The next to last time they came and knew everything!!. I told them OK but stay out of the NE corner. They didn't listen!! Big AG truck with half a load of lime on it buried up past the hubs. Local old guy Yankee self taught mechanic with a home built two transmissions in line wrecker twitched him out for $50.
He is dead and gone now. If it happens today I'm on my own.
After that I just had them worm it out in a pile at the top of the road and bailed a bucket onto each spreader load.
This time I will have to buy it in bags , break them into the tractor bucket and broadcast them with a shovel.

 

[EddieWalker]

You really need to contact your Ag Extension and get some soil sample sacks and send them in for analysis. In my area, the soil tends to be acidic and require anywhere from half a ton of lime per acre, to 2 tons per acre. You will put on the form what you plan to grow, and they will tell you what to mix of fertilizer to use and how much.

In my case, it takes several months for the results to show. I amend my soil this time of the year to get a good food plot in the fall.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Good idea. I have a thread about it here in Projects: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/printthread.php?t=287487&pp=10

Funny thing is when I search for it, it finds it in Lawn World ???

I think I'm starting at a disadvantage soil-wise. My field was probably never better than thin pasture.

Oh no you are not.!! Over most of my land you can take a straight crow bar and apply a half dozen strokes into the same hole and reach bedrock.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Good idea. I have a thread about it here in Projects: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/printthread.php?t=287487&pp=10

Funny thing is when I search for it, it finds it in Lawn World ???

I think I'm starting at a disadvantage soil-wise. My field was probably never better than thin pasture.

Oh no you are not.!! Over most of my land you can take a straight crow bar and apply a half dozen strokes into the same hole and reach bedrock.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Lets start with pictures of the ground you choose to work on from both the east and west. The before pictures.
I'll post mine as soon as the snow is gone.

 

[dave1949]

Oh no you are not.!! Over most of my land you can take a straight crow bar and apply a half dozen strokes into the same hole and reach bedrock.

I can beat that. In some parts of my field, you can sweep the dust off and be standing on ledge.

Eddie is right, it takes time for lime to leach into the soil and do its thing. With too acidic soil, the fertilizer goes to waste because the roots cannot take it up as well. I've found that just spreading lime and no fertilizer will green up the grass around my apple trees.

I think I have two options. Buy a 3pt pto driven spreader and put pelletized lime in it, or maybe buy bulk powdered lime from the Farmer's Union store and shovel. The spreader would be less work, but pelletized bagged lime is more expensive. But, I can use the spreader for seeding and fertilizer too.

These come in different bin capacities.
Fertilizer Spreader, Fertilizer Spreaders, Seed Spreader | Agri Supply, 34140

 

[dave1949]

I have some pics.

This is a nasty area.



The foreground wasn't cleaned up yet, where I'm standing is very ledgey. Back against the trees to the right is pretty much cleaned up. That is one of the better stretches of ground in the field.

 

[vtsnowedin]

You really need to contact your Ag Extension and get some soil sample sacks and send them in for analysis. In my area, the soil tends to be acidic and require anywhere from half a ton of lime per acre, to 2 tons per acre. You will put on the form what you plan to grow, and they will tell you what to mix of fertilizer to use and how much.

In my case, it takes several months for the results to show. I amend my soil this time of the year to get a good food plot in the fall.

You must realize that there is about two planets difference between Texas and Vermont. But the Gobments the same and we have taken advantage of any real service they have offered over the years,

 

[ESBkevin]

Look into Biochar if the plan is long term. Results tend not to be in the first season or two but then seem to much better and longer lasting according to current research. As usual more fibre and humus in the soil encourages microbes and worms, which in turn aids the roots to take up the nutrients. Your green manure idea makes a lot of sense provided you chop it before it seeds. Something like comfry is long lasting as a green manure and goes deep to retrieve nutrients, maybe a strip at the side and spread the foliage once cut.

 

[AaronS]

The key to soil health is what lives in it, the organisms and micro-organisms. The key to keeping the organisms healthy and happy is minimal to no tillage/plowing. Check the QDMA forums and search for threads by user "crimson n camo" titled "Testing in Progress".

 

[flusher]

How deep is your topsoil? If it's 8" or less, I'd use an offset disc (two axles in a V-configuration) instead of a moldboard plow for primary tillage and a tandem disc (4 axles in an X-configuration) with a drag harrow attached for secondary tillage. Apply the fertilizer before doing the secondary tillage. You can find used pull-type discs at reasonable prices.

Get your soil tested before paying big bucks for fertilizers. Remove the guesswork.

Good luck.

 

[vtsnowedin]

You really need to contact your Ag Extension and get some soil sample sacks and send them in for analysis. In my area, the soil tends to be acidic and require anywhere from half a ton of lime per acre, to 2 tons per acre. You will put on the form what you plan to grow, and they will tell you what to mix of fertilizer to use and how much.

In my case, it takes several months for the results to show. I amend my soil this time of the year to get a good food plot in the fall.

We have a soil test kit around here somewhere but without even testing it I know it will call for more lime then I am willing to pay for this year. the point of the green manure crop is to reduce or eliminate the need of commercial fertilizer. I will test it to know where I'm starting at and again later to check progress.
Times like this I miss that manure pile out behind the barn. But at the time I didn't appreciate it much as I was building it one shovel full at a time.

 

[vtsnowedin]

The key to soil health is what lives in it, the organisms and micro-organisms. The key to keeping the organisms healthy and happy is minimal to no tillage/plowing. Check the QDMA forums and search for threads by user "crimson n camo" titled "Testing in Progress".

That is the debate point. To till or Not to till that is the question. The notill organic farmers use a lot of hand labor and the commercial no till farmers use a lot of chemicals. Some are now using cover crops with less chemicals with good results. I don't see rolling in a green manure crop as harmful tillage but purist would disagree.