Oil & Fuel Fluid Film

[GreatWhitehunter]

I use fluid film quite a bit as well mostly for undercoating my vehicles for the winter. It does work well. One thing about it is that when you use the sprayer attachment they have you have to run it at about 80 psi it order to get the siphon strong enough to suck that stuff up.

Works great as an overall lubricant but for a penetrating oil for breaking loose rusted bolts I haven't anything better than PB blaster.

PB Blaster is a joke compared to Kroil. Seek some out and you'll see the truth. I'm an FF fan also but I dislike how dirt sticks to it and it doesn't last long enough to be an good underbody spray. But if you have time to reapply frequently it's cost effective.

Matt

 

[k0ua]

Yep, Kroil over PB blaster any day. Kroil is expensive, but one can of Kroil will last you a long time.

 

[The Fred]

The active ingredient is ..... LANOLIN! Yup, sheep grease. It is terrific for dried out, cracked skin! It does "dry out", but VERY slowly, and once the liquid solvent/carrier in it evaporates, dust and dirt stick to it very little. That's why it is ideal for PTO splines. Or anywhere else you want a "dry" lubricant. The lanolin is semi-solid at room temp, which is why it requires a lot of can shaking to work right.

For the rubber door seals, etc. on your vehicle, better to use "Sil-Glyde" silicone grease from NAPA. You can get a big tube (like 8oz) that is a lifetime supply for <$10.

3 pages and nobody mentioned the stuff smells like goat urine.:sheep::goat:

 

[fatboycowen]

I hate the fluid film smell. It smells like BO.

I'm not certain, but i think the fluid film damaged the factory undercoating on the frame rails of my pickup. I used it for 2 or 3 winters in a row, and now that it's gone, so is almost all of the undercoating stuff. It seems to peel off after being coated with fluid film.

 

[jimmysisson]

Also I noticed after rolling around on a creeper under my 08 Silverado with a couple spray cans, in an open shed, I had a decent headache for an hour or two. YMMV
Jim

 

[super55]

Thanks for the tip on the Kroil. I had never even heard of the stuff before.

Just out of curiosity which one are you guys using? I went to look it up on Amazon and I see silikroil, aerokroil, non-aerosol and aerosol. Thinking about purchasing some but want to make sure I get the right stuff since it's so pricey.

 

[k0ua]

Thanks for the tip on the Kroil. I had never even heard of the stuff before.

Just out of curiosity which one are you guys using? I went to look it up on Amazon and I see silikroil, aerokroil, non-aerosol and aerosol. Thinking about purchasing some but want to make sure I get the right stuff since it's so pricey.

This is what I use..

Amazon.com: Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil, 8 oz. liquid (KROIL): Automotive

 

[Oldpath05]

I was going to have FF sprayed on my Jeep couple years ago by a garage, they gave me a price of around $150.00, and said it has to be re-coated every year. EVERY YEAR, no thank you. I called another place and they spray on some black stuff from Napa, he said it's better then FF for rust proving vehicles and charge me $140.00, he said it will last live of the Jeep. Not sure about that, but it took 24hr for that petroleum smell to go away, it was so strong right out of the garage that my wife couldn't drive it.

 

[Oldpath05]

This is what I use..

Amazon.com: Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil, 8 oz. liquid (KROIL): Automotive

I clicked on that Kroil link and it shows a can that doesn't spray, how does one sprat with just a can can can?

 

[k0ua]

I clicked on that Kroil link and it shows a can that doesn't spray, how does one sprat with just a can can can?

No, spray.. just a can. with a plastic spout that is stuck down in the can when you get it.. Just a few drops on a bolt/nut and it creeps into the joint and lossens it up. Anything corroded. I still have my original can from years ago. It takes very little to work.

 

[the old grind]

Kroil stinks to high heaven (naphthalene and turps, I suppose) but IMO tops blaster, given soak-time and re-applied as needed. (evaporates quickly) Expect some to 'creep' out of the bottom seam of every other can. (been through ten or so 8oz and few still fit to decant to from the gallon I've yet to tap, a ~$50 bargain back in '06 ) Also, expect to splash a lot when squirting on hard to get at things. A bit of small tubing can extend reach while tipping the can for just enough flow. Don't cut the tip any shorter than you have to (it really comes out of there) With just the red tip left off I can smell the can from an arm's length away or more.

Since using Fluid Film I seem to have lost track of most of my aerosol cans that aren't paint. Everywhere you've heard of using it the stuff really does work and lasts longer than 'you name it'. Grease in a can gobs on. FF wicks in, and is called "self-healing" because of its thixotropic property that softens when disturbed/moved. Best, easiest to apply rust barrier I've ever used on outdoor stuff, bar none, and as said the can & straw is plenty to work with. (btw, wipe/buff paint/chrome for a wet-look shine)

 

[Baby Grand]

A can of AeroKroil is my reserve choice for freeing up stubborn threaded fasteners, if PB doesn't work. Almost all used up, now, after 10 years. Thanks, James KØUA, for posting the link to the can-o-Kroil. I didn't know it came that way and that gives me some more options for getting the stuff where I want it to go.

FluidFilm is a really great product and I'm finding new uses for it all the time. Last weekend I used it on the mast of my garage drill press. The drill press lives in an unheated garage where condensation is always a problem and the mast had started rust pretty badly. I laid the press over, removed as much rust as I could with a wire brush, then a sheet of 320 corundum paper & finished the job with a good slathering of FF. Works better than it did when it was new!
-Jim

 

[JRobyn]

Also awesome on your cast iron tablesaw deck

 

[k0ua]

Also awesome on your cast iron tablesaw deck

Yes, it is.. :thumbsup:

 

[jimmysisson]

Does the FF get picked up on the next few boards you rip? The wood might reject a layer of finish over traces of lanolin?
Jim

 

[newbury]

LOVE Fluid Film

 

[sixdogs]

Does the FF get picked up on the next few boards you rip? The wood might reject a layer of finish over traces of lanolin?
Jim

Yes, it does. I try to remove with steel wool and solvents and then wax with paste wax. It could screw up a nice board.

Secondly, I think FF could interfere with a spray paint job. It's common knowledge that spray silicone can screw up a paint job so I'll guess there is some risk with FF. Anyone know?

 

[k0ua]

Does the FF get picked up on the next few boards you rip? The wood might reject a layer of finish over traces of lanolin?
Jim

Don't leave enough on to come off on the wood. You just want the pores in the cast iron sealed. Rub it with a dry paper towel.

 

[JohnMacca]

Is this stuff the same as Fluid Film?

MX4 LANOX Lanolin Lubricant - Inox Lubricants

I have used it for a few years, and the lanolin base makes it stick and lubricate much better.

I hadn't heard of Fluid Film before reading about it on TBN. I have just searched on eBay and the one Aussie seller wants $25 - $30 per spray can.

(The "Lanox" spray costs around $12 -$13 a can).

 

[CalG]

I thought Australia had sheep enough to just grab one and rub it across anything you don't want rusted.

'guess I was wrong. ;-)