You might want to check with local firestone store. Especially if you are in an agriculture area. Locally our firestone has new 9.5 x 24's for 305 and they also have service truck which will go out and install tires and/or repair flats. Sounds like maybe a boot and a new tube and you would be back in business. Lot less than a new tire. Good luck.
Tires Flat tire
- Thread starter BurningBushFarm
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deepNdirt
Veteran Member
No not really, they are what they are, tractor tires don't necessarily get larger when they're inflated, I mean unless were to over inflate them, you can see by the old picture how much more room between the tire and the fender, I have 25 lbs air in the 9.5, and had about 20 lbs. in the ones I took off due to them being so badly cracked, Otherwise would have ran about 25 in them as well,
clemsonfor
Super Member
You realize that these tires per the book (Yanmar service manual i have) are suppose to be run with 14lbs of air in them right? Not saying that im right on the tire issue, i beleive you, im just saying that due to your cracks, you might not be albe to see them at correct PSI.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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i agree.. I usually run rears int he 12 psi range.. depending on the tire.. and fronts more like 26 psi.. 
deepNdirt
Veteran Member
Clemsonfor,
No I didn't know the correct air pressure should only be 14 lbs/-psi, I've always run what look to be normal for the tires dry rotted condition, if the tire pressure were too low the sidewall cracks would open and if had too much air in them the tread cracks would start to open, so right around 20 lbs provides an intermediate pressure for both conditions of the tire, ( on a side note It's too bad one has to inflate these tires to almost 50 psi in order to get the bead to seat, because what started out to appear to be a good none rotted tire now has some places in it that are in fact cracked,:irked: I think having run inner tubes must make the tire more difficult to seat, because the tube is pushing against the tire rather then only air pressure alone, The inner tube has to reach a certain inflation ( 50 psi ) causing the tire to over inflate to seat, even after using soap to help, and this isn't in just one try, it took 3 attempts,after it finally seated I then lower it back down to 22-25 psi,.... Though! now that I know the specs I'll try to run even less air pressure,
This might be the difference on the owners manual recommendation of air pressure of a tubless tire,
can anyone weigh in on this to clarify explainane the correct method to inflate a tractor tire?
No I didn't know the correct air pressure should only be 14 lbs/-psi, I've always run what look to be normal for the tires dry rotted condition, if the tire pressure were too low the sidewall cracks would open and if had too much air in them the tread cracks would start to open, so right around 20 lbs provides an intermediate pressure for both conditions of the tire, ( on a side note
It's too bad one has to inflate these tires to almost 50 psi in order to get the bead to seat, because what started out to appear to be a good none rotted tire now has some places in it that are in fact cracked,:irked: I think having run inner tubes must make the tire more difficult to seat, because the tube is pushing against the tire rather then only air pressure alone, The inner tube has to reach a certain inflation ( 50 psi ) causing the tire to over inflate to seat, even after using soap to help, and this isn't in just one try, it took 3 attempts,after it finally seated I then lower it back down to 22-25 psi,.... Though! now that I know the specs I'll try to run even less air pressure, This might be the difference on the owners manual recommendation of air pressure of a tubless tire,
can anyone weigh in on this to clarify explainane the correct method to inflate a tractor tire?
clemsonfor
Super Member
my tires which are the same as your new ones not sure what they needed to seat, just got them but i paid $10 to have tubes installed. anyway im running 15lbs in rear and they dont squat empty and just ever so when the 700lb finish mower is lifted. i think i could even take 3lbs out to even pull better in dirt. after all u want to use al the lug not just the middle of them.
deepNdirt
Veteran Member
After some quick research I found this bit of info, Looks like I went about it all wrong, this procedure was leaving the tire on the tractor,
.............................................................................................................................................................
. Seating the Bead
Lower tractor until the rim is centered in the tire. This is very important to seat beads properly. Make sure tire beads and rim flanges are aligned. Using a remote control inflating gauge (Item No. HI405 ) with extended hose and clip on air chuck, slowly inflate tire making sure tire beads and rim flanges are aligning properly. Continue to inflate tire to seat beads. DO NOT inflate beyond 35 p.s.i. or manufacturer's recommendations when seating beads.
After beads are completely seated, remove valve core and deflate tube completely. When all air is out of tube, re-inflate to manufacturer's specifications. Always stand off to the side when inflating; DO NOT stand directly in front of tire bead/sidewall area
.............................................................................................................................................................
. Seating the Bead
Lower tractor until the rim is centered in the tire. This is very important to seat beads properly. Make sure tire beads and rim flanges are aligned. Using a remote control inflating gauge (Item No. HI405 ) with extended hose and clip on air chuck, slowly inflate tire making sure tire beads and rim flanges are aligning properly. Continue to inflate tire to seat beads. DO NOT inflate beyond 35 p.s.i. or manufacturer's recommendations when seating beads.
After beads are completely seated, remove valve core and deflate tube completely. When all air is out of tube, re-inflate to manufacturer's specifications. Always stand off to the side when inflating; DO NOT stand directly in front of tire bead/sidewall area
deepNdirt
Veteran Member
Interesting! when looking at the chart air pressure per size tires it shows more air in the smaller tire and decreases as the tire sizes get larger, and usually larger tires mean larger tractors means heavier tractors, or are these the specs if were to run these size tires on your 2002d? incidentally I've just got back from lowering the air pressure to 17 lbs/psi and it seems to be fine at this pressure, although I think anything less when lifting heavy implement would squash the tires down,
As I mentioned in the near future I have plans to load the tires, Doesn't this effect the air pressure as well, what would be a correct pressure with liquid?
clemsonfor
Super Member
Its backwards logic when you deal with tires. Tiny bike tires run at 50-70 psi and tractor tires run less than 20psi. There is more air and to hold it up. THats just how it is. You put 50psi in your bike tire and 35 in your truck tire?
But Deep like i said i have 9.5x24 tires, on my yanmar 2000. I will run my disk harrow that is ballasted around 500lbs or more is my guess and i run a 6ft BUSH HOG brand finish mower that i think weight 695#s if i remember right and they barely start to squat the side casing of my tires. I transport the FM over at least 1 mile of pavement from one property to the other and will only notice a tiny bit of deflection when i pick it up.
As far as water you run the same pressures, i guess the even though the air space is smaller cause of the mass or the tire area you still can run the same?
I filled my tires with winshield washer fluid and am running like i said 15psi, no problem with squat.