Firewood processor build thread

[kiotiken]

You are starting to make me wonder if the pump is actually metric? Maybe 32mm with 10mm key?

No kidding, that's what I was thinking. When I measured with my calipers, I got 8 mm for the key. I called the hydraulic store and tried to get an answer on the size of the shaft and key, but they stuck to the 1.25" shaft and 5/16" key. That's not what I was measuring, but my calipers might not be the best ones you can buy. Still...

 

[woodchipper]

I just spent the last 30 minutes calling every machine shop around me and they all say they can't do it. I can switch out the key with a combination key for $30 which also seems really pricey for a key. My only problem there is I haven't been able to remove the existing key from the motor. The hydraulic shop I bought if from assures me it's not pressed in, but for the life of me, I can't get it free.

A blow on the end of the key with a center punch and a ball peen hammer will dislodge your key.

For your sprockets, bearings, keys, pulleys, belts, drive chains, and so on; have you tried GBS on Kent St, or Wajax on Belfast, or Industrial Solutions (off Industrial Av.), or Motion Canada off Merivale in the West end? Pulleys and sprockets are usually available with different ID holes, as well as different key ways, with same hole diameter.

 

[mikefromnh]

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[kiotiken]

A blow on the end of the key with a center punch and a ball peen hammer will dislodge your key.

For your sprockets, bearings, keys, pulleys, belts, drive chains, and so on; have you tried GBS on Kent St, or Wajax on Belfast, or Industrial Solutions (off Industrial Av.), or Motion Canada off Merivale in the West end? Pulleys and sprockets are usually available with different ID holes, as well as different key ways, with same hole diameter.

Thanks for the tip. Yes I did call Industrial Solutions, it's just so hard to go with these specialty shops, they're 2-4 times more expensive than Princess Auto or online stores. Sometimes it's hard to know if it's worth it or not. I'm all set now, I'm just short 5 shaft collars to hold idlers in place, Ottawa Fasteners is out of stock and I cleaned out Princess Auto.

 

[kiotiken]

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I've been slacking for sure! Last week started with the stomach flu and I could only summon enough will power to go out one night and didn't accomplish much. Another busy weekend this weekend, was going to spend the full day, morning to night, Saturday to finish, but didn't get out there at all until last night. This project has fallen WAY down the priority list for several reasons, mostly, I just ran out of time till the spring.

I went out last night and the processor is now finished... kind of. I still have to paint it tonight, quickly, just to cover as much metal as possible, I'll come back to it in the summer when the weather is on my side. I'm also dropping the wood chute and the extension for the upper wood trough until April. I'll be removing the processor from the garage Wednesday or Thursday, depending on how the paint dries and how difficult it is to install the chain. I have a chain break for a bike, but this chain (#50) is obviously too big, any idea how you break it? I have two lengths of chain, each with a quick link.

Last night I finished welding everything. I also added some 1/4" angle where I cut the back of the frame off the processor and lowered it. I did this for several reasons, to keep water out of the frame, to prevent wood from catching and ripping the frame but mostly to add strength.

Before:

After:


Next, I added a piece of tube to be able to attach the wood chute once I get around to building it. I'm using my old garden tractor dump trailer bed. It's 34" wide so it will fit across the entire back of the processor. I'm going to add a movable diverter flap and divide it up the centre so that I'll be able to direct wood so I can fill 2 bags before having to stop, remove the bag and set up a new one.

 

[mikehaugen]

Grind 2 rivets flush, then put in vise in a way the you are not clamping on the opposite leaf and pound it out with a pin punch.

 

[BukitCase]

"A blow on the end of the key with a center punch and a ball peen hammer will dislodge your key"

I strongly dis-agree with this - a center punch is pointed, and doing that will UPSET the metal and cause it to get EVEN TIGHTER. Ask any good carpenter how they "adjust" a framing square if it's off - if the angle is LESS than 90* you use a CENTER PUNCH at the inside of the angle and check it (against a known good one, or use 3-4-5 triangle) - the center punch will SPREAD the angle a little bit each time.

If the angle is TOO wide, same process but center punching at the OUTER corner.

I've had the best luck getting a stuck key out by setting the motor on a bench with keyway UP, (shaft horizontal) and using a good penetrant a few times (let sit between applications), then using a SMALL hammer and a PIN punch (FLAT end) that's as close to the same size as the key, and a few fast taps.

Once the key is out scrape the surfaces to get rid of whatever gunk caused the tight fit, if you feel any burrs a fine file (after cleaning with carb cleaner or similar to get rid of any oil so the file can work) should smooth them out.

Good luck... Steve

Mike posted while I was typing - same thought... Steve

Edit - my bad, Mike used the CORRECT term (pin punch) - I had always heard the two terms (drift and pin) used interchangeably. Got curious and learned something :ashamed: - corrected... Steve

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

"A blow on the end of the key with a center punch and a ball peen hammer will dislodge your key"

I strongly dis-agree with this - a center punch is pointed, and doing that will UPSET the metal and cause it to get EVEN TIGHTER. Ask any good carpenter how they "adjust" a framing square if it's off - if the angle is LESS than 90* you use a CENTER PUNCH at the inside of the angle and check it (against a known good one, or use 3-4-5 triangle) - the center punch will SPREAD the angle a little bit each time.

If the angle is TOO wide, same process but center punching at the OUTER corner.

I've had the best luck getting a stuck key out by setting the motor on a bench with keyway UP, (shaft horizontal) and using a good penetrant a few times (let sit between applications), then using a SMALL hammer and a PIN punch (FLAT end) that's as close to the same size as the key, and a few fast taps.

Once the key is out scrape the surfaces to get rid of whatever gunk caused the tight fit, if you feel any burrs a fine file (after cleaning with carb cleaner or similar to get rid of any oil so the file can work) should smooth them out.

Good luck... Steve

Mike posted while I was typing - same thought... Steve

Edit - my bad, Mike used the CORRECT term (pin punch) - I had always heard the two terms (drift and pin) used interchangeably. Got curious and learned something :ashamed: - corrected... Steve

I'm with you Bukit, unless you set the center punch at the joint between the key and shaft and use it like a wedge to separate them---but you risk damage to the shaft in the process.

You are absolutely right on adjusting a framing square, works like a charm but there is a better way to check for square. Using a flat surface with a straight edge, use the square to mark a line across the surface. Flip the square over so the blade is now pointing the other way, line up with your mark at the edge of the surface and check the square against the line you just drew before you flipped it over. Any out-of-square will compounded twice and easier to see. Both easier and more accurate.

I had the same thought as both you and Mike on the chain but you guys were several hours ahead of me :thumbsup:

 

[kiotiken]

Thanks for the info on the chain, I'll let you know how it goes tonight. Last night was all about paint again. I decided to use a small sponge roller and brush with the blue DevGuard paint instead of trying to mask everything so I could spray it. That paint is supposed to be rolled/brushed on anyway. It was a good choice since a thick skin had dried on top of the remaining paint and I ended up with small chunks in the paint, there's no way it would have sprayed. I was able to do a much better job with a roller than I expected and I'm satisfied it will protect it till I can get back to it this summer.

Doesn't look much different, but it's all blue now.


I primed the rollers.


I then sprayed them black. Yes, they are black in this picture, just bad light with LED flood lights. With so much blue, I wanted to use something to break it up. The rollers, hoses, cylinders, valve bodies, tank and parts of the engine are all black, so it helps to reduce the blueness factor. I tried to hit them with the wire wheel, but their shape made it pretty difficult to do much. I don't expect paint to stick that well to them, but it should give them some protection.


Tonight I re-assemble it all including the chain. Hopefully I can get it out of the garage on Wednesday, otherwise I won't have time till the weekend. Either way, this weekend I'll make a video of it running (hopefully ) and I'll even take video of the first attempt at processing a log :thumbsup:

 

[woodchipper]

Grey primer looks very good! Hopefully you have your keeway issue resolved by now... Wether you have used a center punch or a drift punch... I have used both successfully in the past. Princess Auto is not allways the cheepest price wise, but for quality stuff, your chances are best at afformentioned bearing shops.
Ken, we are all excited to see your endeavours starting to pay off! We are all eyes for it, and ears, if you show us a video!!
Best of luck in the coming days.