Firewood processor build thread

[Scooby074]

Since pics dont load worth a crap on my phone, I can only see one of your latest bunch and that is of the new mounting plate on the side of the saw.

Am I missing something or are the nuts only on a couple threads? Is so, I think you are asking for trouble with them backing off

Good eyes.

Originally on my build I did something similar, I put a piece of 1/8 plate behind the stock nuts. It was sub-optimal.. Only holding by a couple threads.

Then I reworked it by making my own mounts from metric nuts and coupling bolts. Much better because I had full thread engagement with the bar nuts and also had much better connection to my mount because I could use larger, full bolts.

That said, Im likely scrapping the bar nut mount method next year and reworking it into something that doesnt put load on the bar studs. There is a lot of flex there and those studs, while tuff, wernt designed to deal with the vibration and forces involved in hanging the saw off there.

I likely will just sacrifice a bar to attach to the processor via the mount or maybe use the actual handle on the saw.. Something other than hanging the saw from the studs, if they break or strip out, Im looking at splitting the case to repair.

 

[kiotiken]

Since pics dont load worth a crap on my phone, I can only see one of your latest bunch and that is of the new mounting plate on the side of the saw.

Am I missing something or are the nuts only on a couple threads? Is so, I think you are asking for trouble with them backing off

If you have an Android phone, go to settings then go to Apps. Scroll down to Tractorbynet and click on that. I like to click on Force Stop first, but you don't have to, then click Clear Data. You'll get a warning, click OK. When you launch TractorByNet again, you'll have to log in again, but pictures will work. If you have an iPhone, place it face down on your desk, go to the nearest electronics store and by an Android phone of your choosing :laughing:

The nuts are on more than just a couple treads. Ideally, I'd get a turn or two more out of them, but I think they'll be fine. Everything I'm doing is a guess. Time will tell if the processor self destructs, if the saw flies apart (hopefully not maiming me in the process) or the log simply slides back and forth on my sled and I can't cut it. That's what this threads all about. I haven't come across (free) plans for processors and every one seems to be unique. I took ideas from all those I watched on YouTube and added in my own, but non of those videos showed how they were built.

 

[kiotiken]

So I stood in the garage pondering for a long time last night. I designed a hydraulic scissor clamp, measured the cylinder I have for it, tried to piece it together with the steel I have left and decided I was best to leave it for now. I also designed a frame that would have 12" spikes dangling from it. As the log pushed through it, the spikes would simply drag along the log, but when the log sled retracted, they would dig in, preventing if from retracting with the sled. I designed one to work from the top and another to work from the sides and be spring loaded.

In the end, I went back to the basic idea I had in mind from the beginning. I roughed it in and will be cleaning it up and making it stronger. I think it will work but if it's not enough for large logs, I'll go back to the scissor clamp. If I had the steel I needed, I would have gone that way to start.

Angle iron sharpened to a knife edge and welded to the arm. It should slide over the log when it's extending and dig in to stop the log when it's retracting.

 

[muddstopper]

Its a wait and see, but I dont think your log holder is going to work. for one thing, it is only supported on one end so its subject to twist and flex. You might could add a stop to the other side of the slide for the arm to rest against to make it more rigid so it doesnt flex back as the slide is retracted.

 

[aczlan]

You will have to see how it works, but I suspect that it wont grab well enough and it will flex a bunch.
I might weld 2-3 pieces of 1/4" or 5/16" round stock with the ends ground to a point onto each of those pieces of angle. That way the points will dig into the bark/wood.
A stop on the other side such as muddstopper suggested might be a good idea as well.

Aaron Z

 

[kiotiken]

I appreciate all input, but as I say, this is roughed in and will be made much stronger. It already gets supported by the processors frame, although not far from it's attachment point. That support will be extended with a small steel piece to provide that support higher up and resist the force of the log being retracted, but I do like your idea of adding a piece on the other side as well, I'll have to see if it's possible. I only get maybe two hours a night to work on this and my first hour was spent figuring out what I wanted to build, what I came up with was a rough mock up by trial and error, I didn't even bother with a tape measure! Just like the rest of the processor, bracing will follow on this part as well. In the end, you may end up being 100% right and it'll twist like a pretzel, my bet is I'm not physically strong enough to put that much pressure on it so it bends, at least not when it's done. Scissor clamps are still a distinct possibility and one reasons I bought a 3 spool valve to control the splitter head when I obviously only needed one.

 

[kiotiken]

You will have to see how it works, but I suspect that it wont grab well enough and it will flex a bunch.
I might weld 2-3 pieces of 1/4" or 5/16" round stock with the ends ground to a point onto each of those pieces of angle. That way the points will dig into the bark/wood.
A stop on the other side such as muddstopper suggested might be a good idea as well.

Aaron Z

Not a bad idea, I'll keep it in case it doesn't grab enough. If you go way back to post #3 by Jason, he posted a video of a processor that uses the same principle as mine. The holder doesn't seem to be much at all but enough to stop the log from retracting. The angle I added to the arm is at a very aggressive angle and very sharp. I hope it's enough on it's own.

 

[muddstopper]

I think the angle will work for holding the log alright. My doubts are in the strength of the design. You didnt say, but is the arm going to be held in place using hydraulics, or simply left to allow the log to slide thru. With even a little downforce, spring, hydraulic, more weight, etc, the angle should bite into the log and hold it in place, but it should also be taken into consideration that as the slide is retracted, the force against the angle and the light duty arm, will/might increase due to the friction of the log as the slide retracts backward. The tighter the angle grips the log, the more friction that would be created and the tighter the holding forces. To much friction and to tight a hold could twist the arm sideways, which is the reason I suggest some sort of hold on the opposite side of the arm.

 

[kiotiken]

I think the angle will work for holding the log alright. My doubts are in the strength of the design. You didnt say, but is the arm going to be held in place using hydraulics, or simply left to allow the log to slide thru. With even a little downforce, spring, hydraulic, more weight, etc, the angle should bite into the log and hold it in place, but it should also be taken into consideration that as the slide is retracted, the force against the angle and the light duty arm, will/might increase due to the friction of the log as the slide retracts backward. The tighter the angle grips the log, the more friction that would be created and the tighter the holding forces. To much friction and to tight a hold could twist the arm sideways, which is the reason I suggest some sort of hold on the opposite side of the arm.

The arm is a manual design. If you look at the picture you'll see a handle that extends out the bottom (it's hard to see in the picture). I really like your idea of a support on the other side and I'm going to try and incorporate it. My only problem with that is the logs have to be able to roll into the trough from the rack. I'm attaching the rack so that the logs will drop into the trough already in position to be cut so that means I can't have anything sticking up higher than the top of the trough. If your idea simply isn't possible, I'm going to re-enforce it to hopefully be strong enough. My bet is I'll be changing this to a scissor clamp within a year, but I want to try this first. There will be no tears if it doesn't work.

 

[muddstopper]

I dont see the issue with your logs and log trough. The arm is probably log enough that the stop can be below the trough. Basicly, I think all you need is something to keep the arm from twisting backward as the slide is retracted. Just weld on a stop at the bottom of the trough,extending just to the top of the trough, and let the arm drop in front of it.

 

[kiotiken]

Picked up the splitter head last night, my guess is 200# +. I'm glad I farmed the part out, I could never have got an edge like they did, I also know it's going to hold. My Kioti's going to be put to the test once the cutting head's installed 10' in front of the pivot points and I have to lift it out of the garage. Really not sure how much the processor weighs, but it's not light.

 

[muddstopper]

A 4way and 6way on the same wedge. Interesting in see how that works out on different size rounds.

 

[lutt]

Picked up the splitter head last night, my guess is 200# +. I'm glad I farmed the part out, I could never have got an edge like they did, I also know it's going to hold. My Kioti's going to be put to the test once the cutting head's installed 10' in front of the pivot points and I have to lift it out of the garage. Really not sure how much the processor weighs, but it's not light. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/build-yourself/399573-firewood-processor-build-thread-img_20141120_171628-1-jpg"/>

NICE I'm thinking ur gonna be alright! Rome wasn't built in a day. Figure their is gonna be kinks to work out m, there always are. Glad ur back! LUTT

 

[kiotiken]

A 4way and 6way on the same wedge. Interesting in see how that works out on different size rounds.

Actually, between the two, there's a 2 way wedge. Anything 8" or less goes through the 2 way, 8"-12" goes through the 4 way and everything bigger goes through the 6 way. My cylinder only has a 12" stroke, so it was a mind bender figuring out how to make it work, but I think it will.

 

[murphy1244]

Can't wait to see this!:drool:

 

[kiotiken]

NICE I'm thinking ur gonna be alright! Rome wasn't built in a day. Figure their is gonna be kinks to work out m, there always are. Glad ur back! LUTT

I'm sure there'll be lots of kinks, we'll see and deal with them as they come up. I sat my ***** in a hot tub up at Mont Tremblant last weekend in honour of my wifes b-day. I've been puttering on in now and then since, just haven't got around to posing updates, but I was always coming back!

 

[kiotiken]

OK, just spent 2 hours fitting up the splitter head. It's tight! So after welding up a bracket to attach it to the cylinder, I went about trying to install it. I ended up having to jack the whole thing up on saw horses to get it high enough to slide it in from the bottom. Then it was so tight, I ended up having to jump on the end of the processor to get it to slide in the track. Too tight, that wasn't by design. I was expecting the cylinder to lift the splitter up and just let it slide back down under its own weight. The cylinder is going to have to pull it up and push it down, but if I can do it with my weight (no jokes please), the cylinder should be plenty strong enough until it wears in.

Everything is now fabricated and in place. I've even started to clean it all up for final welding, most of it is still just tacked together. Valves are now in place, the arm is re-enforced and braced against the side, engine and tank have been fully mounted, splitter is in place. I just have to weld it up, paint it and get it out of my parking spot!

 

[MNBobcat]

OK, just spent 2 hours fitting up the splitter head. It's tight! So after welding up a bracket to attach it to the cylinder, I went about trying to install it. I ended up having to jack the whole thing up on saw horses to get it high enough to slide it in from the bottom. Then it was so tight, I ended up having to jump on the end of the processor to get it to slide in the track. Too tight, that wasn't by design. I was expecting the cylinder to lift the splitter up and just let it slide back down under its own weight. The cylinder is going to have to pull it up and push it down, but if I can do it with my weight (no jokes please), the cylinder should be plenty strong enough until it wears in.

Everything is now fabricated and in place. I've even started to clean it all up for final welding, most of it is still just tacked together. Valves are now in place, the arm is re-enforced and braced against the side, engine and tank have been fully mounted, splitter is in place. I just have to weld it up, paint it and get it out of my parking spot!

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You're doing an awesome job. Enjoying following the build.

I can't tell for sure from the the photo, but it looks like the splitter blades might not be angled. You may have some problems with the wood wedging in the splitter blades if the blades are squared rather than angled. They should be angled so that the opening between two blades is narrower at the cutting edge and then get's wider at the exit point on the opposite side.

 

[muddstopper]

I dont think he will have many problems with wood compression during splitting. The star design of his 6way has plenty of room between the cutting edges and the outside edge of the box frame. My 6way blades are angled to be wider at the back the the edge and the edge only sharpened on one side. With this design, I still see moderate compression on larger dia wood, especially if the round is very knotty. I suspect this is because my wing wedges are at right angles to the main wedge. Width between wings stays the same the entire width of the split. With the Vee design of his wing wedges, the splits can expand outwards as they pass thru the wedges.

 

[Scooby074]

Beefy Wedge:thumbsup: