Firewood processor build thread

[kiotiken]

Clamps are have been done for feeding. Its a pretty interesting idea that a few manufacturers are using. Makes for sure feeding. A little different than what you are proposing however.


Glad you thought of ways to convert it when designing. Its not the smaller straight stuff that you will have issues with its the heavy twisty stuff that will get to you. Alot depends on what your local wood supply looks like.

Here's the link to my processor build http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ing-woodsplitter-into-firewood-processor.html I have a couple videos made that I might post. The videos didnt come out all that well so I didnt bother to post them.

I just read your entire build thread. Very nice, well done. There was a comment about the saw not getting enough oil to the bar running in a vertical position, how have you found that? I've had mostly the opposite issue that you have here, the wood I've been getting the last couple years has been to large, not to small. Fairly straight, but the odd piece is ugly. I'm going to need to build a second cutting head that will be a 2 way wedge and will accept at least 22" pieces. I haven't figured out how big a piece will fit through with the 4 way wedge, but it's not big enough and there are definitely some that my current splitter (with a 2 way wedge on it) gets stuck with. No way those will go through my splitting head.

Interesting video with the clamps. It's definitely only plan B, I'm hoping I don't need to do it. Mine would be similar but operate from under the trough.

 

[kiotiken]

OK, a little more done today. It actually took a really long time to get a little bit done, lots of finicky kind of stuff. With my design, I'm very concerned about the whole thing binding up and tearing itself apart or bending so it no longer works. The top sled has to be perfectly aligned with the ram and the bottom trough guide. Here's where it is now.

It can finally stand on it's own!


Drilling 1" flat stock is tons of fun! Lots of cutting oil and patience.


Ram finally in place, even if it's just tacked. More bracing will be going behind the 1" plate.


My little Miller 180 turned up to full. I've never done that before. You can see it's getting some heat in there, but it's really not up for this size material. This is just the push rod, so it will be more than enough to hold.


The ram fully connected to the push plate


Top sled connected to the ram


The whole thing with the 1 way cutting head installed


I've also decided to farm out building the cutting head. Grinding down the 8" of 1" plate for the ram so it could be welded convinced me that I don't want to try grinding many feet of it to a sharp edge. I'm not sure my welds would hold anyway, so I'm going to price it out.

 

[muddstopper]

I have never seen a cylinder mounted that way. (2nd pic) Should work providing the tubing is thick enough and the welds hold. The problem with thin tubing is even if the welds hold, the thin metal can rip. If you havent welded it all together yet, I would consider cutting the cylinder support off and adding a piece of thicker flat plate to the top of the tubing, like a fish plate. This would distribute the load over a bigger area and help prevent ripping the mount off the tube. You can then cut the thickness of your flat plate off of your cyl brace and weld the brace to the fish plate. A fish plate would also help tie all those tubing joints together. Some might think these suggestions are over kill, but they aint the ones that will have to repair it if it fails.

 

[kiotiken]

I have never seen a cylinder mounted that way. (2nd pic) Should work providing the tubing is thick enough and the welds hold. The problem with thin tubing is even if the welds hold, the thin metal can rip. If you havent welded it all together yet, I would consider cutting the cylinder support off and adding a piece of thicker flat plate to the top of the tubing, like a fish plate. This would distribute the load over a bigger area and help prevent ripping the mount off the tube. You can then cut the thickness of your flat plate off of your cyl brace and weld the brace to the fish plate. A fish plate would also help tie all those tubing joints together. Some might think these suggestions are over kill, but they aint the ones that will have to repair it if it fails.

When I got to this point I had another "what was I thinking" moment, similar to the angle I bought for the splitter head channel. I think you're right about the wall being too thin and I did consider adding a plate on top of it but decided against it. If I added a plate that was a couple inches wide, it would be welded on both sides, but the centre where the cylinder support is attached would be floating. I don't think my welder will give me enough penetration while welding the cylinder support to secure a fish plate (never heard that term before) to the metal below it. I think that would make it weaker than leaving it as it is. I also worked really hard to get everything aligned and level and adding a plate under the cylinder support would mean starting over. Cutting the cylinder support would be a nightmare, it's an inch thick!

As I said in the description of pic #3 above, more bracing was on the way. Check out the next set of pics to see how I went about (hopefully) making it strong enough with the thin walled tube. I'm likely going to add a cross brace behind the cylinder support.

 

[kiotiken]

Some more progress on Sunday. I'm getting most of it put together now, just the deck (which won't be live, at least not this year), engine and hydraulic tank mounts and some fiddly pieces to make sure water can't get in anywhere. Then of course, a ton of cleaning and welding since it's mostly just tacked together right now.

Bottom trough in place.



More bracing in place for the ram. A cross brace behind the cylinder support is on the way and probably one to connect the two sides of the processors frame.


Channel for the splitter head. More bracing will be used to make sure the ram doesn't simply push it over!


The much talked about angle making up the rear of the splitter head channel is now re-enforced. Sorry for the poor pic. The splitter head will be pushed against the processors frame on the bottom and all along each side of this angle. I think it's enough, time will tell.


I'll be stopping by a local welding shop tonight. Hopefully having them do the splitter head won't be outrageously expensive, I really don't want to do it.

 

[kiotiken]

Total failure last night! I thought I'd take a stab at the cutter head. I build a little guide for my band saw and gave it a go. After 20 minutes, I realized I'd rather just split wood with an axe than try and rip the steel. Puttered around after that but wasn't in the mood and didn't get enough other stuff done to bother taking a picture.

I did get a price on having them fab up the splitter head for me. I'm dropping the steel off this week and I'll let the pros do it.

 

[kiotiken]

Well... for what it's worth, here's another update, I'm not sure anybody's still following this thread.

Cylinder for splitter head installed.



Engine and reservoir roughed in. Mount for the reservoir and it's orientation will be changing.

 

[dbaer78]

I'm curious how the push plate of your splitter is fastened to the frame. You're work looks good but I too am a little worried about the way the cylinder is mounted but I'm only lookin at pics. I think when it's said and done you're gonna have a really nice machine!

 

[lutt]

Well... for what it's worth, here's another update, I'm not sure anybody's still following this thread. Cylinder for splitter head installed. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/build-yourself/397337-firewood-processor-build-thread-img_20141104_222827-jpg"/> Engine and reservoir roughed in. Mount for the reservoir and it's orientation will be changing. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/build-yourself/397338-firewood-processor-build-thread-img_20141104_235025-jpg"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/build-yourself/397339-firewood-processor-build-thread-img_20141104_235112-jpg"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/build-yourself/397340-firewood-processor-build-thread-img_20141104_235136-jpg"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/build-yourself/397341-firewood-processor-build-thread-img_20141104_235155-jpg"/>

Keep going, I am still following. I'm wanting to take my old poulan splitter and convert it to a small processor. I pickup ideas from everything I see them put them to work. thanks for posting. LUTT

 

[kiotiken]

I'm curious how the push plate of your splitter is fastened to the frame. You're work looks good but I too am a little worried about the way the cylinder is mounted but I'm only lookin at pics. I think when it's said and done you're gonna have a really nice machine!

The push plate slides inside a track similar to the top sled. It is very loose fitting to allow some movement from side to side, but fits tight to prevent the plate from being pushed up. In addition to that, the push plate is secured to the top log sled and therefore uses it as a guide. I didn't just suspend the push plate from the top log sled because I don't know how much force may be transfered vertically and I was worried about bending the sled. I'm still a little concerned I have the push plate guide undersized, it's only using 1 * 2 - .125 rectangular tube. Again, combined with the top sled (also built with 1 * 2 rectangular tube), I think it'll be fine, but I still have no idea how much vertical force there may be.

 

[kiotiken]

Keep going, I am still following. I'm wanting to take my old poulan splitter and convert it to a small processor. I pickup ideas from everything I see them put them to work. thanks for posting. LUTT

Great, thanks, I was starting to think I was talking to myself. I considered doing what you're thinking about and maybe I should have. I did the same thing, took ideas and saw what worked and what didn't.

 

[dbaer78]

The push plate slides inside a track similar to the top sled. It is very loose fitting to allow some movement from side to side, but fits tight to prevent the plate from being pushed up. In addition to that, the push plate is secured to the top log sled and therefore uses it as a guide. I didn't just suspend the push plate from the top log sled because I don't know how much force may be transfered vertically and I was worried about bending the sled. I'm still a little concerned I have the push plate guide undersized, it's only using 1 * 2 - .125 rectangular tube. Again, combined with the top sled (also built with 1 * 2 rectangular tube), I think it'll be fine, but I still have no idea how much vertical force there may be. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/build-yourself/397374-firewood-processor-build-thread-img_20141105_084534-1-jpg"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/build-yourself/397375-firewood-processor-build-thread-img_20141105_083035-1-jpg"/>

Well the best (only?) thing to do is just get her going and if it bends or breaks just fix it and make it better. One thing I would recommend is a replacement wear surface on your splitter head slide area. There's more wear there than you'd think, especially if you use it a lot. Just ask my old woodsplitter! 5 years of semi commercial use and the slide on it is looooose. I've removed all the shims and added a wear strip now she's getting loose again...

 

[kiotiken]

Well the best (only?) thing to do is just get her going and if it bends or breaks just fix it and make it better. One thing I would recommend is a replacement wear surface on your splitter head slide area. There's more wear there than you'd think, especially if you use it a lot. Just ask my old woodsplitter! 5 years of semi commercial use and the slide on it is looooose. I've removed all the shims and added a wear strip now she's getting loose again...

I never thought of a wear strips. I sat there and studied it for a while last night but don't think there's anyway to add something like that now. I am going to be adding grease zerks to the main slide, I was thinking 4 per side, maybe I'll think about greasing the bottom guide as well.

 

[kiotiken]

Here's what got done last night. I only get out to the garage around 10 pm and get an hour or two done per night. I was surprised how long this seemingly simple little project took. Going to bed, I realized that a large log could put a lot of force on it if it catches a knot, so I'm going to add bracing to this one too.

Log stop, adjustable from 12" - 20". Doubt I'd ever change it from 16"

 

[Rustyiron]

Well... for what it's worth, here's another update, I'm not sure anybody's still following this thread.

Just listening & learning!! Thanks for posting.

 

[muddstopper]

Well... for what it's worth, here's another update, I'm not sure anybody's still following this thread.

I'm still following your build, and a few others are as well. One thing tho, your build is scattered over a few other threads and makes it hard to keep up with whats going one. For instance, your thoughts about a 4in or 5 in cylinder, their in another thread, if one didnt see the other thread, they might not know you are having second thoughts about which cyl to use.

 

[kiotiken]

Just listening & learning!! Thanks for posting.

Awesome, thanks.

 

[kiotiken]

I'm still following your build, and a few others are as well. One thing tho, your build is scattered over a few other threads and makes it hard to keep up with whats going one. For instance, your thoughts about a 4in or 5 in cylinder, their in another thread, if one didnt see the other thread, they might not know you are having second thoughts about which cyl to use.

Ya, I agree. I was just responding to a conversation that was already going on about the cylinder size, that's why it's posted there, but I have asked a couple questions in the welding section and again in the thread you mentioned. I am no longer considering changing my 4" cylinder for a 5", it's a done deal, I was at Princess this morning and picked up the new cylinder. I think that discussion saved me a LOT of grief.

 

[kiotiken]

Here's the latest update...

The pump came! Well, they tried to deliver it at least, but nobody was home. Why does that matter you ask? Because there's a $119+ COD charge I called UPS and was told some of it was tax since I'm in Canada and it came from the States but $65 of it was a brokerage fee. I'm not impressed. Most people I know refuse to use UPS because of those types of charges and I usually try to avoid UPS as well, but I didn't ask this time.

The other news is that all the material and drawings have been delivered to the welding shop to be built. They'll have them done next week.

As I mentioned above, I returned my 4" x 24" logsplitter cylinder and picked up a 5" x 24" cylinder. I was worried about speed, but I really should be more concerned about pushing large rounds through a 6 way wedge.

Last night started with a lot of thinking. I grabbed my chainsaw for the first time to see how it might fit into all this (important?). I confirmed what I was thinking, this processor is being built for my son. Unfortunately, he's only 4 so I'll have to make due till he's old enough. See... he's a southpaw and the saw needs to be mounted so it's operated with my left hand. That puts the hydraulic levers on my right hand, so that might not be a bad thing. Because of all the thinking and also because I needed one more 1.5" x 6' square tube, I didn't get a huge amount done.

The not so live deck coming together. It will actually be installed on the other side, but there's no room since the processor is on my side of the garage and I'm not allowed on my wifes side :laughing:



Brackets that allow the whole thing to fold up.


I picked up the rest of the hydraulic parts while I was at Princess Auto this morning. Another $850, ouch!


On the note of the cost, my $2500 original thinking is now being replaced by $4500 - $5000. This stuff adds up really quick.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Looking good so far Ken.

What's the working height of it? Trying to scale off of other things in the pic, it looks like the log deck is 4' or so off the ground. If so, I'm guessing you'll have a platform to stand on rather than standing on the ground?

The jacks are a nice touch to get it level and stable but how are you going to move it? Or is it just going to be put in one spot in the yard and stay there?