FEL Tree Trimmer

[jb92563]

That unshielded blade and the lack of a positive locking nut look like an accident waiting to happen.

What would happen if the blade kicks or a thin branch starts wrapping itself in the blade.

I would hope the trimmer would stop, but there would always be the danger of the blade nut coming undone and the blade flying off
in some random direction. Find a way to cotter pin the nut so it cant come undone please.

 

[PapaPerk]

Buy a pole saw from Stihl. The thing in the video looks like more trouble than it's worth.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Buy a pole saw from Stihl. The thing in the video looks like more trouble than it's worth.

Exactly!!!!

 

[jmc]

What machine are you using it on?

I am thinking about getting one, the V417 has 22 gpm, so might not be too bad.

I use it on the Gehl tracked loader. I think it's about 18 gpm but I don't usually run full throttle.

I could also buy a smaller cylinder for it for trimming. With quick connects all around, it wouldn't take much to swap them out. I even suggested that as an option to a factory rep for the product. He dismissed it because "it only takes 4 seconds or so" to close. But that 4 seconds to close and slightly less time to open really adds up with a lot of branches.

 

[Sodo]

Buy a pole saw from Stihl. The thing in the video looks like more trouble than it's worth.

Well Papa, I agree somewhat with the pole saw being much more effective. Stihl is about $700 I think. I think the FEL mounted saw in the video would waste a lot of time cutting branches in the wrong place. And waste a lot more time attempting to cut branches in the right place.

I have a string trimmer with a carbide 7 1/4" skilsaw on it and a string trimmer with a polesaw. Pole-chainsaws are a heavy lump on the end of a pole. You don't just "slash with it. You have to carefully place it on each branch, then hold pressure on it, all at the end of a "pole". Running a polesaw for one hour is like a chainsaw for 4 hours.

String trimmer with skilsaw is much lighter, and at least 5x faster cutting than the polesaw. You can "slash" with it, which is cut multiple branches in one swing (if that makes sense). You can also position it accurately, because it's lightweight. There is absolutely no comparison. I will cut a hundred branches with the skilsaw and maybe one will inspire me to go get the polesaw. Which I don't, It's actually easier to chip away at it with the skilsaw. And cutting at ground level with a polesaw is more strenuous, leaves punji sticks, and the chain gets in the dirt. I'll use the polesaw if branches are bigger than 2.5".

I have a lighweight string trimmer with a carbide skilsaw (echo 225), and a commercial string trimmer with a carbide skilsaw (echo PAS-266). With the 266 I have to resist the urge to "put it down" feels like twice the weight. I prefer the lightweight trimmer, gets far more work done, I'll cut for hours with the 225.

 

[ace10]

Well Papa, I agree somewhat with the pole saw being much more effective. Stihl is about $700 I think. I think the FEL mounted saw in the video would waste a lot of time cutting branches in the wrong place. And waste a lot more time attempting to cut branches in the right place.

I have a string trimmer with a carbide 7 1/4" skilsaw on it and a string trimmer with a polesaw. Pole-chainsaws are a heavy lump on the end of a pole. You don't just "slash with it. You have to carefully place it on each branch, then hold pressure on it, all at the end of a "pole". Running a polesaw for one hour is like a chainsaw for 4 hours.

String trimmer with skilsaw is much lighter, and at least 5x faster cutting than the polesaw. You can "slash" with it, which is cut multiple branches in one swing (if that makes sense). You can also position it accurately, because it's lightweight. There is absolutely no comparison. I will cut a hundred branches with the skilsaw and maybe one will inspire me to go get the polesaw. Which I don't, It's actually easier to chip away at it with the skilsaw. And cutting at ground level with a polesaw is more strenuous, leaves punji sticks, and the chain gets in the dirt. I'll use the polesaw if branches are bigger than 2.5".

I have a lighweight string trimmer with a carbide skilsaw (echo 225), and a commercial string trimmer with a carbide skilsaw (echo PAS-266). With the 266 I have to resist the urge to "put it down" feels like twice the weight. I prefer the lightweight trimmer, gets far more work done, I'll cut for hours with the 225.

And if you are "slashing" your trees, you are making more work for yourself. In the both the cleanup of all those smaller branches and, more importantly, in the following years when you're trying to clean up all the water sprouts that are being triggered by improper pruning. Additionally, by slashing, you're creating more open wounds for pathogens to attack the tree. Clean cuts made near the collar will heal quicker, as well.

The pole saw exists for a very good reason... it's the right tool for the job.

With tree pruning, faster is not better. IMO. And yes, it does take a lot of energy to do it properly.

$0.02

 

[RitchElbe]

I've been trying to find something similar to what I saw on that FEL bucket years ago. This is the closest I could get

 

[XxLT250RxX]

Guys I am not pruning trees in my yard. I have several roads and fields that need trimmed. The limbs are sticking out into the roads and the edge of the fields and making it very difficult to bushog without getting slapped off the tractor. I appreciate all the replies and suggestions but I don't intend on spending days or weeks using a string trimmer or pole saw. I want something that will cut 3 or 4 inch limbs an do it as fast as possible. I also prefer to build it myself. I am a machinist with a complete machine shop at my disposal. I other words I need to do it as cheap as possible. I believe a saw similar to the one I posed would work but I know nothing about hydraulics. (Thanks for the help JJ) Here is what I am thinking but on a smaller scale. Any other suggestions appreciated. Again thanks to everyone for the replies.

 

[jmc]

I played with a design idea similar to the video and figured the blade would need to run several thousand RPM to cut small cedar branches without being grabby. Those fast hydraulic motors were pretty expensive compared to the more common speeds. But if you are not going with direct drive, like in this picture, maybe you could gear the blades up in speed.

Another idea to make it less grabby is grinding less rake on the teeth faces. I wouldn't mind trying a chainsaw ground that way too, for the same type of pruning. It might be pretty fast.

Guys I am not pruning trees in my yard. I have several roads and fields that need trimmed. The limbs are sticking out into the roads and the edge of the fields and making it very difficult to bushog without getting slapped off the tractor. I appreciate all the replies and suggestions but I don't intend on spending days or weeks using a string trimmer or pole saw. I want something that will cut 3 or 4 inch limbs an do it as fast as possible. I also prefer to build it myself. I am a machinist with a complete machine shop at my disposal. I other words I need to do it as cheap as possible. I believe a saw similar to the one I posed would work but I know nothing about hydraulics. (Thanks for the help JJ) Here is what I am thinking but on a smaller scale. Any other suggestions appreciated. Again thanks to everyone for the replies.

View attachment 396865

 

[boggen]

cutting 3" to 4" branches... and needing to deal with the branches after being cut is the issue. rotatory cutters (brush hogs = brand name) can only handle such a big limb before getting stuck and stopped by larger branches.

the old 1954, allis chalmers ca tractor with bellow mower, with muffler i am guessing around 6 to 7 feet off ground, then your head about another foot above that... call it 8 feet. a couple times a year, i go around with another person normally my mom. 1 driving the pickup truck, while the other person is in the bed of truck, using pruners and like to cut down branches. in the better areas, we just toss the trailer on as well. and cut and toss into trailer as we go. though some areas it just ends up being a pill of limbs on each side of truck, and come back for them later with empty trailer. vs getting in/out of the truck non stop dealing with branches that fall out of hand.

the truck takes a few scrapes, we take a few scrapes from the branches, but *shrugs*, just how it is.

if we need to, we will brake out a 8 or 12 foot fold up / A frame ladder. but that generally is pushing it, and the tree limb is really eerking us. other wise, mowing = another larger turn around the branch.

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i am not much for running a chain saw in back of truck bed (safety), and if i did, it would be the smallest possible chain saw possible. "way to much over head work" less weight the better.

i do NOT recommend putting someone in bucket of FEL (front end loader), way to easy for the bucket to dump, and bye bye person within it. more so working with tree branches that could catch the levers / joystick. *been there done that* not with person in FEL bucket, but catching a lever/joystick.
--i am uneasy with it, but they do sell some "man lifts" style setups, that attaches to FEL's. but still just does not seem safe to me.

if you had a mini excavator or a backhoe, i think i remember seeing a couple hydraulic driven chain saw blades, that one could swap out the bucket for.

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but out of all options, the tree companies most likely have best setup... the man lift / bucket trucks. what many electrical / telephone pole companies use to raise there workers up to the tops of telephone poles, or get in and cut down the trees. (from the tops down) vs just cutting tree at the ground and letting it fall over.

you might see if you could rent a bucket truck some place (not sure if that is possible?) you can rent self propelled scissor lifts / extendable man lifts / buckets with full size R1 ag tires, or R4 industrial tires on it.

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i no longer remember the "thread name" maybe a year old? it was hydraulic chain saws. same basic thing as the circular saw blade in the 1st post, but with a chain saw blade.

i think someone setup a hydraulic chain saw and a wood splitter (turned the FEL bucket into a wood processor) but this was for logs already cut, not for branches.

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with everything said, the hydraulic motor, the extra valve, hydraulic hoses, and the fittings. are going to run you a few hundred bucks.
i am going to say go with others with a pole saw, or circular saw on the weed whacker or like. vs trying for a tractor mounted option.

some of the "straight shaft" weed whackers / trimmers, you can buy a pole saw extension for it. pull off lower half trimmer, and snap on the pole saw extension. if you have any ponds / lakes you need to deal with (cutting banks). folks have used the "hedge trimmer" extensions. as a heavy brush / tall weed whacker. other words turning the hedge trimmers into more like a sickle mower in idea. 1 engine and a few different extensions *shrugs*