FEL removal - Any tips?

[kspring61]

I am heading down to TN to pick up my DK40SE. I need to bring it back to PA to cut some fields for a guy that lets us hunt his land.
I have a 18' trailer and with the brush hog on the tractor it's slightly too long so I want to remove the FEL and have never done it since I had the tractor.
So, I have read the manual but I am sure guys that have done this have some good tips for making this easy.

Thanks
Kirk

 

[Amvcane]

I would make sure the area where you place the loader is as level as possible. At least from the front tires to the bucket. This will minimize any twist of the loader arms and make it much easier to remove and reinstall the pins.

 

[Sysop]

If you look at the link below, you'll see many videos on removing the loader from a tractor. Unfortunately, there is none of your exact tractor. Fortunately, most are very similar in process.

 

[Dadnatron]

Don't unhook the hydraulics until you have backed out of the hookup about 6 inches. I always forget and unhook them while I'm out putting down the FEL 'legs'. Then I have to cuss myself, get back off, and reattach them to elevate it off the hookup.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Unhook it on a HARD FLAT SURFACE !!!

 

[kspring61]

Unhook it on a HARD FLAT SURFACE !!!

I would make sure the area where you place the loader is as level as possible. At least from the front tires to the bucket. This will minimize any twist of the loader arms and make it much easier to remove and reinstall the pins.

Thanks, going to be putting it in the pole building that has a concrete floor.

 

[Coyote machine]

I'm assuming you're going to offload both the bucket and loader arms as one piece? I'd get it where you want it to sit, lower the support legs and get them set, and as stated undo the hydraulic lines once you have the loader disconnected from the support structure and the pins are removed from same. Don't move too much beyond getting everything undone so no damage occurs to your FEL hydraulic lines. Once you know you're set and can back out from the FEL, then disconnect your hydraulics, AFTER using the locking mechanism just below the FEL's control stick. This will keep you from bumping it accidentally while you disconnect the QDs under the right side floorboard.
I suggest throwing some significant amount of grease where the pins lock the loader into it's supports. I found mine were pretty dry when I first removed the FEL, and having it removed gives much better access to the connection areas.

 

[Amvcane]

Not sure if I did it when removing the loader, but before disconnecting the backhoe cycle the joystick to relieve the pressure from all the hoses. ( with the engine off )
If you don't you will not be able to reconnect the lines without relieving the pressure. Putting a rag over the female connector and hitting the nipple with a hammer usually will relieve enough pressure to reconnect the lines.

 

[Dadnatron]

Not sure if I did it when removing the loader, but before disconnecting the backhoe cycle the joystick to relieve the pressure from all the hoses. ( with the engine off )
If you don't you will not be able to reconnect the lines without relieving the pressure. Putting a rag over the female connector and hitting the nipple with a hammer usually will relieve enough pressure to reconnect the lines.

Heh... this is ALSO a must.

I once had a blade with a hose under pressure. I couldn't get it to connect. I thought, 'Well, I will just push in the ball on the tire and let a little pressure out. I pushed on the lug, had a HUGE spray all over the place. Of course, I was cranking down on it, so my face was about 8" away. My complexion was excellent for the next week. My wife asked me if I was using moisturizer."

Took a week to get the oil completely off my sunglasses.

 

[Sysop]

Not sure if I did it when removing the loader, but before disconnecting the backhoe cycle the joystick to relieve the pressure from all the hoses. ( with the engine off )
If you don't you will not be able to reconnect the lines without relieving the pressure. Putting a rag over the female connector and hitting the nipple with a hammer usually will relieve enough pressure to reconnect the lines.

Key point BOLDed above.

Heh... this is ALSO a must.

I once had a blade with a hose under pressure. I couldn't get it to connect. I thought, 'Well, I will just push in the ball on the tire and let a little pressure out. I pushed on the lug, had a HUGE spray all over the place. Of course, I was cranking down on it, so my face was about 8" away. My complexion was excellent for the next week. My wife asked me if I was using moisturizer."

Took a week to get the oil completely off my sunglasses.

A rag is a key component of the "wrap and tap" depressurization technique.

 

[Dadnatron]

Key point BOLDed above.



A rag is a key component of the "wrap and tap" depressurization technique.

Unfortunately... this post came about 6 months too late.

 

[Sysop]

Unfortunately... this post came about 6 months too late.

Not this first time that's happened and it's likely happened to all of us at least once.

 

[Trails End]

Also, if you have an electrically activated 3rd function valve for a grapple or plow on
your FEL, don't forget to disconnect the electrical plug connecting the control
switch on the joy stick to the 3rd function valve.

 

[Sysop]

Also, if you have an electrically activated 3rd function valve for a grapple or plow on
your FEL, don't forget to disconnect the electrical plug connecting the control
switch on the joy stick to the 3rd function valve.

That I'm sure would depend on model. I've seen older tractors with the controls mounted to the rear of the loader frame on the main upright, but many modern tractors have the loader valve, 3rd function valve, and the loader control with the switch all mounted to the tractor. No wires run on the removable part of the loader, it's just two extra hoses to disconnect.

 

[Snowback]

I am heading down to TN to pick up my DK40SE. I need to bring it back to PA to cut some fields for a guy that lets us hunt his land.
I have a 18' trailer and with the brush hog on the tractor it's slightly too long so I want to remove the FEL and have never done it since I had the tractor.
So, I have read the manual but I am sure guys that have done this have some good tips for making this easy.

Thanks
Kirk

Perhaps you could just let the cutter hang over the back end of the trailer a bit? In TX we can have around 4' hanging out the back as long as it is flagged properly. I used to flip the rear tail wheel up to save a couple feet, but now I just flay the wheel and strap it to the cutter so it doesn'd flop around.

Maybe it's because I have a grapple and have just gotten lazy, but I am always need to move limbs or tree trunks out of my way when cutting.

With a 20' trailer I can can load all implements and get away with a reasonable overhang. Assuming you have a two foot shorter trailer, but can also get the loader all the way up to the front without the box blade like in this picture, I bet you'll be fine. I leave the tail wheel down now and although it is out there a good ways, I have never had a problem with LEOs or other drivers.

 

[Trails End]

That I'm sure would depend on model. I've seen older tractors with the controls mounted to the rear of the loader frame on the main upright, but many modern tractors have the loader valve, 3rd function valve, and the loader control with the switch all mounted to the tractor. No wires run on the removable part of the loader, it's just two extra hoses to disconnect.

My tractor is one of the older tractors (2012 Bobcat CT335) that has the 3rd function valve
mounted on the main upright of the loader frame.

 

[Sysop]

That seems to be a pain to take off. Where and how do your hydraulic lines disconnect from the tractor? Unscrew the lines at the 3rd function valve and plumb them together? Quick disconnects on the other ends of those lines under the tractor?

 

[IXLR8]

Not sure if I did it when removing the loader, but before disconnecting the backhoe cycle the joystick to relieve the pressure from all the hoses. ( with the engine off )
If you don't you will not be able to reconnect the lines without relieving the pressure. Putting a rag over the female connector and hitting the nipple with a hammer usually will relieve enough pressure to reconnect the lines.

I put a PVC pipe cap over the fitting and hit that with a hammer rather than a rag. It prevents the pressurized oil from going all over the place and minimizes the chance for damaging the nipple.

 

[Amvcane]

I put a PVC pipe cap over the fitting and hit that with a hammer rather than a rag. It prevents the pressurized oil from going all over the place and minimizes the chance for damaging the nipple.

I like the pvc cap idea. Rag, cap and bang on loader arm or backhoe platform. I will put a cap in storage box. Thanks.

 

[Trails End]

That seems to be a pain to take off. Where and how do your hydraulic lines disconnect from the tractor? Unscrew the lines at the 3rd function valve and plumb them together? Quick disconnects on the other ends of those lines under the tractor?

The hydraulic lines disconnect from beneath the tractor just behind the step.
The two lift lines go directly to the lift cylinders, and the two curl lines go to
the 3rd function valve.