FEL Hard Lines

   / FEL Hard Lines #1  

1m21

Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2007
Messages
49
Location
Dundee, NY
Tractor
YM2000BD
Anyone find a good source for steel hydraulic tubing?

I need to make new hard lines for a FEL.

Thanks.
 
   / FEL Hard Lines #2  
McMaster Carr not cheap but well specified and available
 
   / FEL Hard Lines #3  
Most htdraulic hose shops have it in 10ft lengths. Harbor freight has a tubing bender for about $30. The problem is, how are you going to keep it from rusting?:eek:
 
   / FEL Hard Lines
  • Thread Starter
#4  
shaley said:
Most htdraulic hose shops have it in 10ft lengths. Harbor freight has a tubing bender for about $30. The problem is, how are you going to keep it from rusting?:eek:


I have thought about the rust problem (being I'm in upstate NY). Good paint or if they will fit in my oven, I could powder coat them after they are bent. There is always stainless steel tubing also.
 
   / FEL Hard Lines
  • Thread Starter
#5  
What PSI rating do I need on the tubing. The hydralics are set at about 2000 PSI but how much over that do I need to cover the shock load?
 
   / FEL Hard Lines #6  
You want .049 wall thickness, also seamless. Call around to any good hydraulic shop. They should have in stock. I hope you have a good bender and flaring tool, this is not like brake line. And as far as stainless, avoid it. It is very hard and brittle, difficult to work with. I make steel lines and have never had a rusting problem with good quality hydraulic tubing. You can paint it if you like.
 
   / FEL Hard Lines #7  
I have had good luck with rigid steel tubing from McMaster Carr and after I got tired of flaring it I tried flareless fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose. I used both the "flareless compression" fittings and the "JIC Convert-A-Flare" fittings. Neither type of fitting looks very substantial, but they have held up several years with no leaks, so they must be okay. The "JIC Convert-A-Flare" fittings are most useful because they work with standard JIC male flares, whereas the flareless compression fittings adapt to a pipe thread which you then have to adapt to your particular situation. I am not getting rid of my flaring tool just in case these things start leaking, but if you do not have a flaring tool I would try the flareless fittings before buying one (the good flaring tools are expensive).
 
   / FEL Hard Lines #8  
I used the two-ferrule mechanical grip design from Swagelok when I designed and built my loader this summer. I also welded some of my fittings. I welded the fitting on the cylinder connected to the hose. I used 3/8" tubing because I got free and it was an inconel material with nickel base that does not rust. I made it out of the scrap pieces.
Piping.jpg

SideView1.jpg
 
   / FEL Hard Lines #10  
blacksmith said:
I used the two-ferrule mechanical grip design from Swagelok when I designed and built my loader this summer. I also welded some of my fittings. I welded the fitting on the cylinder connected to the hose. I used 3/8" tubing because I got free and it was an inconel material with nickel base that does not rust. I made it out of the scrap pieces.
Piping.jpg

SideView1.jpg

Who's tubing did you use? I need to do the same thing, the hard tube on my loader is long gone, as in not there, I don't like all the long rubber lines. Yours looks great! And where did you get the Swaglock (spelling) fittings. Last dumb question, what is Iconel material?
Thanks,
Bill
 

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