favourite stick rod

[Scooby074]

Mine seems to be a really good one, they have often told me to not consider some of their house brand things, such mig welders.

Their mig welders are Italian crap. They told me the same thing :thumbsup: I got my first fill free too

One thing thats ticking me off however is their "Compliance Charge". Its something like 5% or so. And its applied on anything that has a MSDS. Which is pretty much anything in the place.

Then they have a fee for ocy/ace on top of that.

My branch does the compliance charge as a flat fee though instead of the %. But that means that you have to spend ~$100. If you go in and buy a handful of zipcuts, the fees almost come out to more than the purchase!!!

 

[JB4310]

Their mig welders are Italian crap. They told me the same thing :thumbsup: I got my first fill free too

One thing thats ticking me off however is their "Compliance Charge". Its something like 5% or so. And its applied on anything that has a MSDS. Which is pretty much anything in the place.

Then they have a fee for ocy/ace on top of that.

My branch does the compliance charge as a flat fee though instead of the %. But that means that you have to spend ~$100. If you go in and buy a handful of zipcuts, the fees almost come out to more than the purchase!!!

I don't see how they can charge you for what they have to comply with.
A hidden charge or just higher prices maybe, but a separate charge for their compliance requirements :confused2:

Maybe I'm not getting the point.

JB

 

[Scooby074]

I don't see how they can charge you for what they have to comply with.
A hidden charge or just higher prices maybe, but a separate charge for their compliance requirements :confused2:

Maybe I'm not getting the point.

JB

It is what it is. I talked to them about it. Its a corporate thing. Basically its an MSDS charge. And their competitors are even worse.% wise. It technically doesnt apply to everything, but you try and find me something in the store that doesnt have a MSDS or safety sheet. May be a screwdriver or something. Grinding wheels, rods, oxy ace.... etc all have the fee applied.

The guys at the store dont like it either, thats why they do flat rate instead of %.

The actual calculation is kind of weird, they explained it to me but i forget. Something like 7% for the first $50 than 5% after that? I cant remember exactly.

On a order its something like $5.00 flat rate. I dont have any invoices handy to give you the exact figure

 

[davygp38]

I don't know what skill level welders some of you guys are, buy I use the 80T AC + rods in my Everlast DC inverter. For a guy like me who doesn't weld for a living, this set up works like magic. I can literally set down the stinger, and the rod will arc, and start to weld. There is very little, to no sticking, and very little spatter. It works in both AC, and DC. Some of the guys I work with said that they were too expensive, but I just bought 10 pounds at my welding supply shop for $29.99, the same price as 7018.

 

[Chilly807]

I generally use 7014, either 3/32 or 1/8. I've got some 6011 for dirty work, and some 7018 if I need it, but the 7014 is my choice.

Sean

 

[SpringHollow]

I like 7014 but I do not think it penetrates real well, does it? Even 7018 does not penetrate as much as 6011 from what i can see. But both are nice to weld with. Let me know if my statements are incorrect. Maybe i am doing something wrong. I am new at welding.

Ken

 

[JB4310]

I like 7014 but I do not think it penetrates real well, does it? Even 7018 does not penetrate as much as 6011 from what i can see. But both are nice to weld with. Let me know if my statements are incorrect. Maybe i am doing something wrong. I am new at welding.

Ken

I don't know enough to correct you, but I will agree with you about the 7014, and disagree about the 7018.

Though it looks like there is almost as many 7014 fans as 7018 here in this thread. I had never used 7014 much if at all, when the guy who owns the local welding shop/ steel supply gave me a handful of 7014 and told me I would love them, "smooth as butter" he repeated a couple of times.

But I struggled with them, no easier than any other rod as far as I could tell. This was right when I got my DC capability I was also a bit intimidated about the 7018, since I heard they were not the easiest rod for the less experienced.
I struggled a little with the 7018's re-strike, but I found once I got past that, the 7018 was much easier to use, with much much better results, in my hands anyway, I produced some beads that shocked me, they looked so good. IMO they penetrate very well too.

Never went back to the 14's and as far as the re-strike issue with the 18's I just knock the snot off the end with the grinder sometimes, who doesn't have a grinder next to them when ever they are welding?

JB

 

[Shield Arc]

I like 7014 but I do not think it penetrates real well, does it? Even 7018 does not penetrate as much as 6011 from what i can see. But both are nice to weld with. Let me know if my statements are incorrect. Maybe i am doing something wrong. I am new at welding.

Ken

In the last couple years I've tried just about every major brand of 6010, and 7018. I'd say with the same joint configuration, arc force, and amp for amp Hobarts 335A 6011 digs in the best I've seen.

 

[George2615]

I mainly use 6011, 6013 or 7018 in either 3/32" or 1/8" depending on the job.

 

[Chilly807]

The 7018 welds good, no question. I just got tired of finicky re-strikes. Normally nothing I weld requires it , so unless it's something special material wise I use 7014 or 6011.

Sean

 

[Dargo]

6013 and 7018. Both from Air Liquide.

Same rods for me too. My dad was a professional welder for over 40 years and was brutal on me when teaching me to weld. I suppose him rejecting most of my first 500 or so welds is why recovery hooks I've welded on some old D9 dozers with just a 6013 1/8" electrode have withstood the test of time. If I had 7018's with me, I would had used them instead but, at least in my case, a lot of times I end up using what I have with me.

Technically, there are dozens and dozens of electrodes that are stronger than the ole 6013, but if some of the hooks and repairs I've made on heavy equipment have survived, there is a LOT to be said about why using a stronger weld material than your parent material. Now, on some cutting edges, like scalloped buckets on backhoes etc., I've used some 90XX and even 10XX rods. Again, I've found that even the cutting edges on most buckets aren't that strong.

Why is it that, even if it has to burn a hole through my pants to do so, I always get a glob of molten steel pop off and go inside my boot when I don't properly clean the surfaces first; even though it's impossible to thoroughly clean some jobs?

 

[Scooby074]

Why is it that, even if it has to burn a hole through my pants to do so, I always get a glob of molten steel pop off and go inside my boot when I don't properly clean the surfaces first; even though it's impossible to thoroughly clean some jobs?

Boot is bad. As i found out long ago, sneakers offer NO protection to molten metal boogers, and those same boogers are like a heat seeker to the tender bits between your toes ; BUT by far the worse place to get a booger is in your ears. Nothing like hearing the sizzle as it burns into your brain lol

 

[yomax4]

If you get a chance to run a machine that has the Hot Start feature, You can re-strike 7018 nearly as well as 6013. If you are welding at 115 amps, You can set the Hot Start to 150 or more amps and set the timer at .5 or . 8 seconds. It will give you a nice start and re-strike is a non issue even on the cheapo 7018 rods. Arc force is another great feature. Keeps your rod lit and prevents it from sticking in the puddle. Helps when you get a little out of possition too. These features have givin me a new appreciation for my machine.

 

[Soundguy]

Boot is bad.

why? seems to offer superior protection?

high shaft covered by pants, and hopefully your apron.. heavy material, not likely to burn thru, and closed toe..

no real place for a clinker to get in.

soundguy

 

[deereman75]

Well I picked up 11# of 1/8 inch lincoln 7018ac rods today. Going to try them out when I get the time.

 

[Scooby074]

why? seems to offer superior protection?

high shaft covered by pants, and hopefully your apron.. heavy material, not likely to burn thru, and closed toe..

no real place for a clinker to get in.

soundguy

I should have added four words there "Getting one in your".

Leather aprons and the like are great in theory but in the way much of the time. Welding jackets are good, especially if your out of position but i need a new one.

Coveralls... they're pretty much useless against a determined piece of slag when your out of position and cant move.

 

[deereman75]

What I have been using for my welding clothes is a pair of carhart overalls, and a HEAVY denim jacket. I havnt got a leather jacket (that will change in about 36 days) but it would be a lot better. I am also using an old pipeliner helmet, but that will be replaced by a lincoln viking tribal auto dark (in about 36 days)

 

[dex3361]

Well I picked up 11# of 1/8 inch lincoln 7018ac rods today. Going to try them out when I get the time.

I have always had good results with 7018AC. I started using them years ago when I used a Linde AC welder.

 

[Verticaltrx]

Well I picked up 11# of 1/8 inch lincoln 7018ac rods today. Going to try them out when I get the time.

That is what I use 90% of the time on my old Lincoln 225 AC welder. Great appearance, less spatter and very strong welds.


Personally, I've almost quit using 6011's after discovering how brittle the welds are in comparison to the 7018's.

 

[deereman75]

That is what I use 90% of the time on my old Lincoln 225 AC welder. Great appearance, less spatter and very strong welds.


Personally, I've almost quit using 6011's after discovering how brittle the welds are in comparison to the 7018's.

well I am going to see how well they work with my lincoln ac 225s. I will still use 6011 for root passes though, and 7018 for hot passes, fill passes, and cap passes.