Farm/property gate

   / Farm/property gate #1  

DMF

Platinum Member
Joined
May 16, 2005
Messages
651
Location
Mass
Tractor
Massey Ferguson 1552 Cab Model
I want to add a good solid gate to the road access to my sugar bush. I need to close an 18' opening. I've seen tons of homemade gates over the years, but I'd like to see what members have done here. I am especially interested in ways you may have come up with to provide tamper resistance to your locking mechanism.

Show me what you've made!

Thanks!
 
   / Farm/property gate #2  
2 pipe gates required for a couple openings here on the farm

a vertical pipe at the fence post
a top horizontal pipe across the top (to reach to center and then some)
and then an "angle bracket" pipe to form a triangle

i have wood fence posts gates attach to. so when putting in the hangers for the pipe. i slightly off set them. so one gate always swings open, and the other one always swings closed.

on the one that always swings closed, i got some extra chain and tossed a hook on it. so when opening up i can just toss hook over some fence wire to hook it open.

having both gates always swing open, is big pain in rear, trying to close them.
having both gates always swing closed, seems like extra steps to both latch them open, and then extra steps to unlatch them to close them.

if you need any sort of "no trespassing sign" on the gates. you are better off taking pipe clamps and say a 2x8 or like. and fastening it to the pipe gate, and then attaching sign to the 2x8. you need lumber, any sort of metal sign trying to fasten it with wire, will more than likely blow away in wind.

for locking the 2 pipes together, i have chain attached right were the angle brace pipe comes up to the horizontal pipe. and then just wrap the chain around pipe a couple times, till both pipes gates come together then wrap both gates together 1 to 3 times with chain with a lock.

the pipes are about 6' person hips in height., they are not level in anyway. and were the 2 gates come together they almost form X, errr better yet ><

they are low enough to keep atv/utv out, and just high enough, you really do not want to try and hick leg over them, and require someone to get on knees to get under them.

for extra, i have wired each pipe gate at the fence post were they hinge. so no one can come over and physically pick the gates up off the hinges. have seen folks just toss a chain around and a paddle lock for same doing vs wiring them in with a few strands of wire.

when dealing with snow / mud / regrading road. i love the pipe gates. extremely light weight and easy to operate.

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i do not have live stock (cows, pigs, sheep, horses, etc...) so i do not need a live stock gates. which has multiple pipes / framework, nor do i need a very bottom pipe/framework.

with that said, i do have dogs.

on the fence to keep the dogs in around the home. i have 2 live stock gates (makes it easier to mow). and only open to mow. or in rare case open one up to get furniture in/out through back door of home. because these gates have the low pipe/framework right on the ground 99% of the time.

i have attached cheap boat trailer jacks onto one end of each gate. the jack lets me easily lift up gate out of mud,snow, etc... and the wheel helps off set the added weight of the fence when opening/closing them. and allows me to physically lift entire gate with the jack, and not have to drag it across the ground (when put in new, no problem, but once things begin to sag....)

these gates, are attached to wooden fence post. and i have leaned the posts/hinge points on the fence post. so the gates are right at ground level when closed, but when open, the one end raises up off the ground some. (did this on purpose)

these gates will swing open, once you get them out of there initial rut per say of the boat trailer jack wheel rut.

i just use a generic eye bolt to L latch you might find at some hardware store for sliding doors for sheds/barns or gates. no real need for a pad lock or like.

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on one of my sheds. i have double doors that slide left/right. one portion of locking the door. requires you to pull a pipe up per each door in the center. the pipe runs through some E bolts in the door frame, and then i dug in 2 larger pipes down into the ground, that the pipes fall into. i did put some rock in bottom of the hole Post hole digger, so winter water does not freeze the pipes in.

the 2 pipes you lift, i have managed to bend, over the years. "tend to use them like a lever some" to pull the doors shut. the pipes, work good and keeps door shut nice and tight, more so in heavy nasty winds. while the doors may be able to be pushed a couple inches each way. the only way ya going to be opening doors is removing the pipes first. (no putting a long piece of metal through side of door and removing a latch, to open a door.)

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i refuse to ever use a "CHAIN" or "CABLE" as a gate. the stuff is either TO SMALL, and you can not see it, and you run through yourself (end up costing myself more to repair stuff due to running through cable/chain gate). or to heavy, and possibly getting tangled up around a tire or other stuff pulling/dragging through gate. *been there done that*

also chain/cable. generally always ends upon the ground. make it water,mud,snow other. your hands end up messy dealing with just pure chain/cable gates.
 
   / Farm/property gate #3  
Here is the gate and entry I built for my place. I have an Apollo automatic opener which is pretty much what everyone around here uses. They are hard to force open unless a person knows what couple of bolts to take off.

Capture.JPG
 
   / Farm/property gate #4  
Here is the gate and entry I built for my place. I have an Apollo automatic opener which is pretty much what everyone around here uses. They are hard to force open unless a person knows what couple of bolts to take off.

View attachment 513468

Nice gate Joe! And howdy neighbor! For the time being, I only have the galv pipes up... (2) 12 footers. Once the driveway is in, I intend to build some ornate pillars behind this and weld up my own design to put on openers. Well done!!
 

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   / Farm/property gate #5  
With the snow, operating a traditional gate can mean a lot of shoveling during sap season, you might consider just a cable or chain with a hefty water proof (anti freeze) type padlock. Not real fancy or attractive, just cheap, fast & effective. In the winter, you better carry a propane torch just to be sure.
 
   / Farm/property gate #6  
Around here the timber companies and the DNR use simple gates made of either heavy pipe or railroad iron, the gate rail pivots on a heavy post set in concrete. The rail is supported by a diagonal support under the rail, or by installing a tall 8'-10' pivot post and using a length of old logging cable to support the weight.
The lock assembly is what we call a bell and pin, the bell is a piece of steel pipe 8" diameter, with a slot cut in the side to receive the tongue of the gate and a 1/4" piece of plate welded to the top. The bell is welded to the gate post, open end down. A one inch pin with a slot or hole big enough for a pad lock hasp is used to lock the gate. Make sure that the bell is big enough to get your hands into to operate the lock and remove the pin, but also deep enough that a pair of bolt cutters can't reach the lock.
This sort of gate will discourage all but the most determined trespassers.

Oh, be careful in the summer to check for wasp and hornet nests, they love these things:bumblebee::fiery:
 
   / Farm/property gate #8  
Thanks. Do you ever make it over to Colorado Bend to fish for white bass?

No fishing yet... I moved to Texas just shy of two years ago and I'm still in awe and seeing the sites. Right now, I'm in Leander but this new place has no land, typical development property. I bought the 27 acres in Lometa to start working on our retirement home and hope to have most of it done in 10 or less years then retire 5 - 7 years afterward with no mortgage. AG exempt will help out a ton with retirement!
 
   / Farm/property gate #9  
Just keep in mind in your planning that your house, barn, any other improvements and at least one acre will be classified an non-ag. They'll notice improvements pretty quick nowadays by using google maps. Tagged my brother in law this year when he expanded his hunters cabin .
 
   / Farm/property gate #10  
Here is a picture of the gate we put on our road and a picture of the gate we modeled it from. The arm can extend to your exact width and the locking mechanism is simple. A vertical tab is welded to the end of the arm and it slides into a slot on the pipe section welded to the post. A lock is attached from the bottom so the only access is with a key from the bottom. There is no access to the hasp to cut it.

If you look at the second picture you can get the idea, sorry I don't have a better picture of the locking mechanism.

final.jpg Proposed Gate.jpg
 
 
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