Farm Pro 2420 Problem

[R Barger]

I just bought a 2420 and when you first start it it runs at around 500 rpms and won't rev beyond that for 3 to 4 minutes. Then it will take fuel and throttle up like it is should. As long as it is warm it will run well till it cools completely and then it will do the same 3 to 4 minute thing again. Anybody have any Ideas?

 

[Bob Rooks]

Sounds like the governor might need some oil.

 

[R Barger]

Sounds like the governor might need some oil.

When I got the tractor I had the same thought so I drained the oil and it had way too much oil in it. The oil looked clean,just way too much. I put back 4 ounces as the jinma manual says but it didn't change it.

 

[Bob Rooks]

What year is it? Now it sounds like an EGR issue since it seems temperature related, relating to EPA emission requirements. Barring that, it could be a sticking rack/barrel-plunger assembly.

 

[Ricks284]

I had a similar problem with my Jinma recently, but it doesn't sound identical... so I'll just throw this idea out there for you to consider. Mine was starved for fuel and the engine rpm was erratic. Sometimes it would run fine, and other times it would almost stall. The shut-off valve under the diesel tank has a rubber piece inside that disintegrates over time. Mine was almost completely blocking the flow, so I fixed it by cutting out most of the rubber piece. It works fine now and I don't really care that the shut-off valve no longer works.

Your problem is probably unrelated, but I thought it might be worth checking. It's pretty easy to check if you're getting full flow through that valve -- just disconnect the fuel line before the filter and empty it into a jar.

 

[R Barger]

I am beginning to think injector or injector line leaking off when I let it sit. Today I started it and cracked the injector line on the front cylinder and at first there was no fuel , then suddenly there was fuel so I closed the line and it ran normal.

 

[R Barger]

I had a similar problem with my Jinma recently, but it doesn't sound identical... so I'll just throw this idea out there for you to consider. Mine was starved for fuel and the engine rpm was erratic. Sometimes it would run fine, and other times it would almost stall. The shut-off valve under the diesel tank has a rubber piece inside that disintegrates over time. Mine was almost completely blocking the flow, so I fixed it by cutting out most of the rubber piece. It works fine now and I don't really care that the shut-off valve no longer works.

Your problem is probably unrelated, but I thought it might be worth checking. It's pretty easy to check if you're getting full flow through that valve -- just disconnect the fuel line before the filter and empty it into a jar.

Tomorrow I will check fuel flow to the pump.

 

[Ricks284]

I am beginning to think injector or injector line leaking off when I let it sit. Today I started it and cracked the injector line on the front cylinder and at first there was no fuel , then suddenly there was fuel so I closed the line and it ran normal.

Okay, well maybe you just had air in the system. Air is exactly what I suspected at first, before finding the clogged shut-off valve. If yours continues to be erratic, you might still check the gravity fuel flow from the tank, just to be sure. Good luck!

 

[R Barger]

I checked both fuel lines going to the pump today(no fuel). I have never seen a setup like this I'm not sure if the lines are run correct. Someone has put a new pump on it. The line from the strainer bowl is attached to the pump where the primer is. I'm totally confused at this point.

 

[Bob Rooks]

The plumbing is correct. Flow is from the tank (sediment bowl) to the lift pump, to the secondary fuel filter, to the injection pump, and then return line to the tank (they all do it that way). Some models will have the return line going back to the lift pump suction, but that is a dubious practice. Check to see if you have an in-tank screen. If you do, remove it, they are notorious for plugging up, especially if you have a dose of diesel bugs (looks like brown/black sludge). You also have a small screen inside the lift pump suction banjo bolt (if it hasn't been removed), another source of plugging.
The barrel/plunger assemblies and the injectors will not hold the 2,200 psig popping pressure for long (1 hour at best), but they make it up with every turn of the engine.