sea2summit
Super Member
They also get old/worn out and fail to their default “off”.
Extension cord question
- Thread starter Pixguy
- Start date
- Views: 7860
LittleBill21
Elite Member
drag another cord along
LD1
Epic Contributor
Lots of guessing, assumptions, and speculation.
The RV controller will tell you exactly why it's tripping.
Get that code today if you make it there and then you can figure out what you need to do
The RV controller will tell you exactly why it's tripping.
Get that code today if you make it there and then you can figure out what you need to do
GFI's and refrigerators don't get along well.
https://homeappliancehero.com/large...dn't be,of electrocution and electrical fires.
https://voltfixer.com/why-fridge-keeps-tripping-gfci/
plowhog
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2015
- Messages
- 4,049
- Location
- North. NV, North. CA
- Tractor
- Massey 1710 / 1758, Ventrac 4500Y / TD9
Couple of questions:
- Is your refrigerator two-way (120v or propane) or three-way (120v, propane, or 12v?)
If it's three-way I'd suggest NEVER using the 12v option.
Regardless of that choice, do you leave your refrigerator "plugged in and running" while it is in storage? If you do, I'd suggest disabling it instead. There is likely a dedicated circuit breaker in the panel which will kill power to it. If you disable it (good practice,) be sure to unload it, leave the door ajar, and prop something so the door cannot accidentally close itself.
The refrigerator is one of the highest electrical loads in an RV, ditto the battery charger. If you disable the refer prior to plugging into shore power you will be demanding less amperage which might help your current issue.
I'd also verify your "engine" and "house" batteries. If they are flooded lead acid batteries I'd make sure they have not gone dry and have the proper amount of fluid in them. Dry batteries can cause a large electrical load by the RV charger.
OP
Pixguy
Super Star Member
Current refer is only 120v.
We ran 12v on last coach while on the road.
Only left refer on while storing once by accident. It does have a cooling off process at ice machine but a fan still runs so I hit breaker.
The Mrs wants the refer on the day before when i bring to house to load up for trip home. I may have to put in a 30amp outlet at house.
What wire do I need for 30a for a beside the panel outlet? 10/2 correct?
plowhog
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2015
- Messages
- 4,049
- Location
- North. NV, North. CA
- Tractor
- Massey 1710 / 1758, Ventrac 4500Y / TD9
Necessary wire size for a 30a RV plug would depend on the distance the RV is from the panel. Preparing for a trip, I used to park my motor home in front of my house. Due to the length of the cord from the rear of the house electrical panel, it was either #6 or #8. (Cant' remember exactly.) I'm not an electrician, but I'm sure an electrician would know. Or, there are online sources to check voltage distances, amps, and length of wire.
Beware the 30a, 120V RV connection is something of an oddity. Be sure to use the correct plug. Or have a 240V circuit/plug wired, and use an electrical adapter that are commonly available at RV stores.
LittleBill21
Elite Member
you do not need a 30a circuit to run the refrigerator, unless this is some full size fridge. they use like 800 watts, if its absorption based and not compressor.
OP
Pixguy
Super Star Member
It is a full size residential fridge and it'd have to be roughly 55ft away and use 35' of 50a and 25' of 30amp. I'm thinking 30a due to the 120v tripping yet it is plugged in the rv using 120v
LittleBill21
Elite Member
i am struggling to believe the refer uses that much power. let us know what the error code is.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Resedintial refers usually top out bout 7amps @120v
150' of 14ga wire should still keep you around 115v if the supply is 120. Shouldn't be an issue at all.
Let us know what that code is
150' of 14ga wire should still keep you around 115v if the supply is 120. Shouldn't be an issue at all.
Let us know what that code is
OP
Pixguy
Super Star Member
This is what was shown on all 3 cords I had used.
No errors
No errors
OP
Pixguy
Super Star Member
First arriving today with fridge breaker off.
10' cord gfci tripped.
Reset it and it seems fine for 10 mi but cord is warm
Tried new 100' 14 (not 12 like I thought) Starts up no errors but after approx. 3 minutes the surge protector kicks off and comes back on after a minute. Repeats many times.
Tried 100' orange extension 16 cord and it repeats what the new cord did. I even unwound new cord at this point but same results when tried it.
Put 10' cord on, let it run. Noticed cord was warm but ran. Guy pulls in and is unhooking his tow vehicle so I chatted with him for 10 minutes. Came back and power is gone and gfi did not trip but the breaker in locked panel.
Started up coach (diesel) and ran til batteries came up so I can see panel. I see nothing that was running and drawing power. Here's diagnostic screen
10' cord gfci tripped.
Reset it and it seems fine for 10 mi but cord is warm
Tried new 100' 14 (not 12 like I thought) Starts up no errors but after approx. 3 minutes the surge protector kicks off and comes back on after a minute. Repeats many times.
Tried 100' orange extension 16 cord and it repeats what the new cord did. I even unwound new cord at this point but same results when tried it.
Put 10' cord on, let it run. Noticed cord was warm but ran. Guy pulls in and is unhooking his tow vehicle so I chatted with him for 10 minutes. Came back and power is gone and gfi did not trip but the breaker in locked panel.
Started up coach (diesel) and ran til batteries came up so I can see panel. I see nothing that was running and drawing power. Here's diagnostic screen
ponytug
Super Member
That your cord is warm worries me a bit. Is it possbile something else is on, adding to your load? Battery charger(s), freeze protection heaters, a pump left on, water heater? A typical RV fridge draws on the order of 600W or so starting up, and then closer to 200 (Dometic).
FWIW, a true 14ga copper extension cord with 1000W load on it will drop the voltage about 3.5%, about 4 Volts. You probably want to be using a true 12ga copper extension cord, and yes, not in a coil.
Where is your GFCI? Is it an outlet, or is it in your cord? GFCIs do go bad.
All the best,
Peter
FWIW, a true 14ga copper extension cord with 1000W load on it will drop the voltage about 3.5%, about 4 Volts. You probably want to be using a true 12ga copper extension cord, and yes, not in a coil.
Where is your GFCI? Is it an outlet, or is it in your cord? GFCIs do go bad.
All the best,
Peter
OP
Pixguy
Super Star Member
I honestly have looked at everything that could be left on and cannot see anything and the breaker for the refer is off. It is a bit frustrating.
The GFCI is the typical wall outlet.
I did videos of the ems display with each wire but we can't load videos without using a third party host like YT which I won't do. But ask away. The loads seem to range from 0 to 6amps on line 1 or 2.
ponytug
Super Member
When you say line 1 or line 2, is it possible that the way you are feeding the power to your RV pulls line 1 and 2 off the same 120V extension cord, in which case you are pulling up to 12 amps on the cord?
I would start by getting a heavier duty extension cord. My RV cords are 10ga just to minimize the power losses. I wouldn't get one longer than you need. (25'/50').
All the best,
Peter
I would start by getting a heavier duty extension cord. My RV cords are 10ga just to minimize the power losses. I wouldn't get one longer than you need. (25'/50').
All the best,
Peter
LittleBill21
Elite Member
if the cord is warm. your pulling serious curent. when the PD is killing power, it should be throwing a code?
if all 3 cords are doing it, then you have a issue. either you have something on, or your shorting out somewhere.
you can get one of these. hook it in via a 15 adapter, and see what your truly pulling, but based on that fancy panel, it appears nothing is really running, which makes me think you might have a short somewhere
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Ele...e60fbba17c01e&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
do you have a meter? unplug the rv, kill the main breaker and see if you have continuity between hot and neutral or hot and ground.
I do not agree its a cord gauge issue. I use a 100 foot 16 gauge cord without issue, and stay above 110v
if all 3 cords are doing it, then you have a issue. either you have something on, or your shorting out somewhere.
you can get one of these. hook it in via a 15 adapter, and see what your truly pulling, but based on that fancy panel, it appears nothing is really running, which makes me think you might have a short somewhere
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Ele...e60fbba17c01e&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
do you have a meter? unplug the rv, kill the main breaker and see if you have continuity between hot and neutral or hot and ground.
I do not agree its a cord gauge issue. I use a 100 foot 16 gauge cord without issue, and stay above 110v
OP
Pixguy
Super Star Member
Thanks again guys for your willingness to help.
We had no issue when we were at a campground last week plugged into 50a. I need to get batteries for my meter and will get that tomorrow
We had no issue when we were at a campground last week plugged into 50a. I need to get batteries for my meter and will get that tomorrow
ponytug
Super Member
Keep us posted. Extension cords shouldn't be warm if you aren't using anything.All the best, Peter
oosik
Epic Contributor
I have a very HD - 25 foot - 8 gauge extension cord. I use it when I take my generator and any powered tools out on the property. I have an "el cheepo" 100 foot 16 gauge extension cord. I've used it a couple times with my worm drive Skill saw. Everything gets hot. One of these days I will discard the 100 foot cord.
Also - if I ever buy another extension cord - rubber sheathed. Plastic sheathed sucks in the cold.
Also - if I ever buy another extension cord - rubber sheathed. Plastic sheathed sucks in the cold.
