Electric Diverter Valve

[Mark_in_NH]

Does anybody have any knowledge of Fasse Valves in Kearney Nebraska. They apparantly make electric diverter valves like the ones made by V&M.
According to the company, there valves are available through my local John Deere dealer, they come as a complete kit, are very easy to install, and a kit to convert from 1 to 2 is $449 complete with disconnects

 

[rancar]

Hi Mark....

When I purchased my JD4710, I asked my dealer, KC-Canary, Fultonville, NY, for price quotes to install the Fasse Valve on top of the FEL joystick instead of on the housing in front of the rockshaft control lever. I thought it would make things a bit easier when operating my 4in1 bucket. The following e-mail excerpt is how the dealer reacted to my suggestion to install the Fasse Valve.

"The set up Deere provides for the 4in1 bucket is one in which the clamping function is operated by your 3rd remote valve. There is a mid-mount connection and the hoses are run to the rear of the tractor where there is also a quick disconnect. So in essence, that function will be lever controlled. The lever is located currently (on the 4x10 series) directly below the joystick whereas in the past (4000 series) it was located on the right hand fender. The button you speak of can be done and is called a Fasse valve. It electrically diverts the oil from one function (curl or lift) while the button is engaged to operate the clamshell function. Your price for the Fasse valve and installation would be about $700. The valve itself runs about $350 and there is a considerable amount of wiring and installation time, the better part of a day...I have to be honest, we haven't done a lot of these in the past, but from a cost standpoint and for the very reason that the joystick and lever are in close vicinity now without losing any loader function, I think the current set up Deere calls for is probably the best."

I decided to take the dealer's advice and went with the standard Deere set up. I've operated the 4in1 several times and I find the arrangement to be suitable and am glad I did not opt to go for the Fasse valve, thus, saving $700 in the process.

Bob

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Mark, I recently bought and installed an electric diverter valve from V&M. It cost basically the same by the time I added my own disconnects. Install was easy, the only thing I changed was thier switch position. I use it on my 4 in 1 bucket and it works as advertised. Much more convenient than removing your hand from the joystick to operate a remote lever. I also figured if the tractor is ever sold, I could remove the valve and easily reinstall on a new machine. I have not seen the valve from Fasse, but I think our dealer uses those.

 

[Mark_in_NH]

Bob,
The gentleman that I spoke to last evening, from Fasse Valves, in answer to my question on installation, said that (Basicly) anybody who was generally handy and with basic tools could install this valve. He said the kit came complete and was simple to install.
I am going to call my JD dealer today and see if I can get more info. I would sure like to see what comes in a complete kit and take a look at the instructions before I commit $$ to one.

 

[rancar]

Mark,

<font color=blue>"...in answer to my question on installation, said that (Basicly) anybody who was generally handy and with basic tools could install this valve."</font color=blue>

You may be right on this or I should say the salesman from Fasse may be correct. I've always thought I am pretty handy with tools but I would hestitate doing this myself. All I can say is the JD technician that described this install procedure mentioned it would take several hours labor due to significant re-wiring. Frankly, I don't know whom I would believe. Your salesman may be making it sound easy to make the sale or my JD technician may have made it sound hard to pump up the labor for this install.

I certainly would go the route you're suggesting....that is, call the JD dealer and try to get more info and a look see at the install instructions.

Bob

 

[hazmat]

<font color=blue>You may be right on this or I should say the salesman from Fasse may be correct. I've always thought I am pretty handy with tools but I would hestitate doing this myself. All I can say is the JD technician that described this install procedure mentioned it would take several hours labor due to significant re-wiring. Frankly, I don't know whom I would believe. Your salesman may be making it sound easy to make the sale or my JD technician may have made it sound hard to pump up the labor for this install.

I certainly would go the route you're suggesting....that is, call the JD dealer and try to get more info and a look see at the install instructions.</font color=blue>

Bob,

not to belittle your experience, but I can't see how this is a complicated thing. All it is is a solenoid. Simply a matter of wiring up the switch somewhere convenient (loader control?) and the solenoid at the hydraulic connectors. The wires are certainly easier to run than hyd hoses from a rear remote to the front.

Edit here:

PS nothing wrong with your installation as you gain a rear remote as well!

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

Mark: I don't know about the Fasse, but I found the kit from W.R. Long to work well. I don't recall the instructions, so you might want to check with Long and see if they'll send you a set.
My experience is in <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=powertrac&Number=200406&page=3&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=0&fpart=>DIVERTER THREAD</A>

 

[Mark_in_NH]

Bob,
I am sure that the right answer is somewhere between your dealer and the my Fasse salesman.
I spent some time at my local john deere dealer today. The same salesman that sold me my tractor looked through a catalog, made a phone call, dug out another catalog and there it was.
The picture was limited to just the valve itself with the couplings and dust caps, it didn't show any wiring or switch etc. although the kit did list all necessary componants. You could plainly see how the valve worked, 2 line in one side, 4 lines out the other with 2 selenoids on top.
the cost of the Fasse Valve model #SW700-1590 which converts 1 to 2 from the John Deere dealer was / is $475.
By no means Cheap. $$$$$ and there are still some hose's and fitting to buy, plus the cylinders for my plow.
I am estimating $700 +/- to add power angle to my snowplow. I don't know !!!$$$$$$$$$!!!!!!!
I got some thinking to do. /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif

 

[Mark_in_NH]

hazmat,
I tend to agrre with you on installation. The valve appears as though you could mount it where ever feasable and connect it with the proper hoses and either solid or quick connect fittings. Mount the switch, and run the necessary wiring.
I am sure theres a little more to it then that, but not much.
At the moment, I feel pretty confident to tackle the job, I just don't know if my wallet is a willing participant.

 

[Mark_in_NH]

Charlie,
The post on your Diverter installation was very helpful to read and see pictures of. Thank you for bringing it to my attention, somehow I missed it back in October.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Charlie,

Do you have a number or web site for W.R. Long? I can't seem to find any way to get in touch with them.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Mark, will try to attach a picture of my diverter installation. I put male fittings on and plugged the diverter into my existing bucket outlets. Then put female disconnects in the 'default circuit' holes of the diverter (these work when diverter is not activated by the button). I plug the factory bucket hoses in these, the top ones in the picture. I plumbed the accessory hoses in the diverter with pipe elbows to save space (these work when the button is pushed and are on the bottom in the picture). If I need to unhook them, I will remove the whole assembly and just plug in the factory bucket hoses. Mounting the valve in the back like this cost me some hyd hose, but it seemed the most versatile and sanitary place. Electrical work was very simple, 1 hot wire, no ground.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

V&M supplied a handle with a switch in the end which was supposed to clamp to your existing hyd lever. I modified it to act as a "T" handle by shortening it and welding 2 nuts to the side to thread to my joystick. It works better than expected. Operate the switch with my left thumb. This modification of the handle took the most time of all in the install, still did it all in a short evening.

 

[rancar]

Mark...

<font color=blue>I am estimating $700 +/- to add power angle to my snowplow.</font color=blue>

Well.....at least we are in agreement on the $700 price and general hesitancy in following through with doing it. Myself, I saved the $700 and used it instead to buy some forks for the 4710. I found this to be a more worthwhile capital investment. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Bob

 

[hazmat]

<font color=blue>Myself, I saved the $700 and used it instead to buy some forks for the 4710. I found this to be a more worthwhile capital investment</font color=blue>

Hmm, $700 is one expensive button! I'd have gone with the rear remote solution as well.

Mark,

Have you looked into added onto the valve block where your loader controls are now? Might be a bit cheaper.

Another option, Is to weld up a bracket for the plow to mount it to the tractor frame & use it without the loader. Don't know if your loader is quick detach or if it's something you're interested in. (just thinking outside the box)

 

[rancar]

<font color=blue>Hmm, $700 is one expensive button! I'd have gone with the rear remote solution as well.</font color=blue>

What can I say Steve? Dealer quoted me $350 for the Fasse valve and another $350 or so for the labor to install. I just didn't think it was worth it from a cost-benefit perspective. I'm finding my forks quite useful and now believe this was the better investment. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Bob

 

[hazmat]

<font color=blue>I'm finding my forks quite useful and now believe this was the better investment.</font color=blue>

I'd love to have some forks to move brush piles around. I'll have to go with clamp on model as my bucket isn't a quick disconnect. Someday.

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

Matt:
Sorry, I should remember to post the Long information each time I mention them. I heard of them first on TBN, and got their 4 n 1 bucket, which is awesome, and later the diverter kit. They sell direct and through Carver equipment. A word of caution. Don't send mail to their street address. Use the P.O. only. I sent a check to the street address and it was returned saying no service to that address. Long confirmed that they have mail service to the P.O. only, so use the street only for directions if you plan to visit.
W. R. Long, Inc.
P.O. Box 460
1607 Cedar St.
Tarboro, NC 27886
800-823-4570
Fax 252-823-4570

 

[Taylortractornut]

Mark I bought a solenoid double seletor valve from a company called the Surplus Center. there nuber is 1 800 488 3407. its Item number 9-5117. It cost 149 dollars. 3000 PSI 15 GPM,12 vols Ports SAE 8 size 4 1/2 by 2 1/2by 6 1/2.
Dual12 volt DC solenoid operated double selector/multiplier valve. Allows one double acting control valve to operate your choice of two double actong cylinders or motors. Ideal use with tractor remotes. When used with variable flow or closed center sytems valve can be used as a selector, or poer both solenoids and direct fluid to both circuits at the same time.
I hope this helps you. I hate getting the run around from tractor dealerships here. Ive had folks tell me there Deere dealerships tell them the same thing to get another remote added for a grapple or 4 in 1 These items are nice at 149 each compared to 400 dollars for only 1 double acting circuit. Best reguards Taylor Lambert PS if you order from Surplus Center mention Rock and Dirt magazine.