nyen0004
Silver Member
I am thinking about building a small dump cart/trailer for my JD2320. I would love to see pics of your carts/trailers, and any imput or ideas you have would be greatly appreciated.
Dump Cart Ideas and Pics
- Thread starter nyen0004
- Start date
- Views: 10949
rmorey
Platinum Member
Check out the versa trailer by dr. It has a dump, with outriggers and the box comes out and makes a logging trailer. Neat machine.
Scooby074
Super Member
Subbed for future reference.
I plan on building something for my BX. Im leaning towards a euro style 4 wheeler. like a hay wagon. Since I only have one tractor, 4 wheels will allow me to park and load without having to deal with jacks. Plus I will be able to put more on a 4 wheeler because there is no tongue weight to speak of. This also means I can move a "heavy" trailer with my ATV. Something in the 4x8 range I think. These links are to larger ones, but the concept is the same. There is a manufacturer that makes a reasonably priced trailer kit that several have made, it has wood floors and sides, the manufacturer escapes me at the moment.
I plan on building something for my BX. Im leaning towards a euro style 4 wheeler. like a hay wagon. Since I only have one tractor, 4 wheels will allow me to park and load without having to deal with jacks. Plus I will be able to put more on a 4 wheeler because there is no tongue weight to speak of. This also means I can move a "heavy" trailer with my ATV. Something in the 4x8 range I think. These links are to larger ones, but the concept is the same. There is a manufacturer that makes a reasonably priced trailer kit that several have made, it has wood floors and sides, the manufacturer escapes me at the moment.
rmorey
Platinum Member
Whoa, that green one must weigh 2,500 lbs. If you put that behind your 700 lb atv, and wander down, even the most modest grade, you will be a "pile at the bottom of the hill".
Be very careful with that. We dont want anybody to get in trouble.
I thought long and hard on this for my 1026r. I live on hilly land so this was designed to not run away.
I would build a 2 wheeler from an old 3/4 or 1 ton truck rear axle. The brakes would be plumbed to a master cylinder and lever at the front. The lever could be locked with a hasp or detent. The axle would be biased to the rear so that the tongue would always be weighted up to a 30 degree grade. The tongue would have a skid with some small spikes on the bottom to keep it from scooting in muddy conditions. The dump mechanism and bed would be pretty standard fare like that found on an articulated dump truck. The tires would be as tall and wide as possible without hurting stability or width too much. The tread would be fairly aggressive. The hitch would be connected to a trailer adapter on the 3 point hitch.
I would build a 2 wheeler from an old 3/4 or 1 ton truck rear axle. The brakes would be plumbed to a master cylinder and lever at the front. The lever could be locked with a hasp or detent. The axle would be biased to the rear so that the tongue would always be weighted up to a 30 degree grade. The tongue would have a skid with some small spikes on the bottom to keep it from scooting in muddy conditions. The dump mechanism and bed would be pretty standard fare like that found on an articulated dump truck. The tires would be as tall and wide as possible without hurting stability or width too much. The tread would be fairly aggressive. The hitch would be connected to a trailer adapter on the 3 point hitch.
6011Artist
Gold Member
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2008
- Messages
- 375
- Location
- Darlington, SC
- Tractor
- 1957 Ferguson 35, 1977? Yanmar 2200, 1963 Cub Cadet Original
I own 6 trailers that are roadworthy (tires & wheel bearings) and 2 that are considered for yard use only. (low speed bushings). On my road trailers I have screw type tongue jacks and a 'shoe' on the bottom of them, basically a flat plate so it won't sink in dirt. I put a 4x4 under the tongue jack before unhooking from my truck which makes it sit high on the front. If I move it with the tractor I can pick it up and move with it, leaving the wooden block behind. My trailers are either 2" or 2-5/8 in balls but I run a 1-7/8" on the tractor hitch so the ball will NOT lock, will always slip out without me ever getting off of the tractor. So moving them around or working with them in my yard is a breeze, hook or unhook and never leave the seat.
If you have a 4 wheel trailer it is tough to back. I have one, bought it just so I could learn to back it up. I'm getting better but it gets tough sometimes. The 2 wheel trailers are a breeze.
Also, the longer the tongue (or trailer in itself), the easier it is to back. The shorter the tongue the faster it turns, very fast response on a short trailer.
For your tractor, I'd think a 5X10 would be a lot better choice. It's a good size general purpose utility trailer and will haul most that the average guy would want to haul but yet still small enough to work well behind your tractor.
The hardest trailer to back is the 3X3 yard cart. When the trailer os shorter than the towing vehicle it can be a nightmare.
If you have a 4 wheel trailer it is tough to back. I have one, bought it just so I could learn to back it up. I'm getting better but it gets tough sometimes. The 2 wheel trailers are a breeze.
Also, the longer the tongue (or trailer in itself), the easier it is to back. The shorter the tongue the faster it turns, very fast response on a short trailer.
For your tractor, I'd think a 5X10 would be a lot better choice. It's a good size general purpose utility trailer and will haul most that the average guy would want to haul but yet still small enough to work well behind your tractor.
The hardest trailer to back is the 3X3 yard cart. When the trailer os shorter than the towing vehicle it can be a nightmare.
Scooby074
Super Member
Yeah, as I mentioned in my post, those are for full sized tractors, im downsizing the one I build to 4'x8' or maybe 5x10. No need on shooting down the hills here at a alarming rate.. I can't afford the underwear
Surge brakes of some sort might be in order too, if I find it too hard to control.
6011Artist
Gold Member
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2008
- Messages
- 375
- Location
- Darlington, SC
- Tractor
- 1957 Ferguson 35, 1977? Yanmar 2200, 1963 Cub Cadet Original
swick, I'm not a fan of taking a pickup bed and converting it into a trailer. It's just my own choice/liking. But using a pickup bed does have it's legal loopholes.
I guy local to me was coming home at dusk dark and a tractor trailer hit him in the rear as he was stopped, making a left turn. He did not have lights. They were there but the plug was damaged, not hooked up. Since it was a "manufactured vehicle" and the original lights were still intact, lenses had the reflective material in them that was factory installed, the tractor trailer was at fault. Had it been a home built trailer, he would have been at fault IF his lights did not work.
There's a loophole about hitting ANY manufactured vehicle in the rear if the factory lights and reflector material is still there. Although it was just the bed, it WAS a manufactored vehicle.
I guy local to me was coming home at dusk dark and a tractor trailer hit him in the rear as he was stopped, making a left turn. He did not have lights. They were there but the plug was damaged, not hooked up. Since it was a "manufactured vehicle" and the original lights were still intact, lenses had the reflective material in them that was factory installed, the tractor trailer was at fault. Had it been a home built trailer, he would have been at fault IF his lights did not work.
There's a loophole about hitting ANY manufactured vehicle in the rear if the factory lights and reflector material is still there. Although it was just the bed, it WAS a manufactored vehicle.
MFWD
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2012
- Messages
- 112
- Location
- South Mountain, Pennsylvania
- Tractor
- 2002 New Holland TC35D with cab, a 2007 New Holland Skid Steer and a 1970's 154 Cub Lo-Boy, 2016 John Deere XUV 550 Gator
Hey LeeJohn..................that's a real nice looking cart !!!!!!!!!!
MFWD
MFWD
SPIKER
Elite Member
My tractor with FEL is probably 4200 lbs but only has 28HP so as you can see this trailer I built is good sized for IT. HOWEVER the tong weight is low and when loading I HAVE to load the front of the trailer first otherwise it will tip up when un-hooked. I drop it and use the FEL to load gravel out of my dry creek/wash. I fill up the front of the trailer normally first and have tipped it up when re-hooking with the Box Blade Ball mount which I have to have the trailer leaning back to get under the dump tong hitch. When using the yellow T bar/Ball I do not have this issue or when I leave it hooked to the truck or neighbor's tractor.
More images of the build & details are on Photo-bucket in the same folder.
It will hold ~2.5 yards of gravel and has a 7K lb axle under it. I was going to put 2 under it but needed the maneuverability around the farm & the bridge prob ably could easily be overloaded with a dual axle trailer.
Behind the truck for perspective.
Mark
More images of the build & details are on Photo-bucket in the same folder.
It will hold ~2.5 yards of gravel and has a 7K lb axle under it. I was going to put 2 under it but needed the maneuverability around the farm & the bridge prob ably could easily be overloaded with a dual axle trailer.
Behind the truck for perspective.
Mark
OP
nyen0004
Silver Member
That is pretty much what I was thinking of building. I have a few more questions for yah now that I see yours... What are the dimentions. I see hydraulic hose so I am asuming it has hydraulic dumping capability...How does your tractor handle a full loaded trailer for dumping. That was one thing I was worried about with my JD2320, I want to build something the proper size so if filled full with dirt I can still dump it and not have to empty half with a shovel.
OP
nyen0004
Silver Member
I don't have much/any Hydraulic experience:confused3:. So was wondering a few things... first on a set pressure if you take a small diameter cylinder and a larger diameter cylinder will the larger one or the smaller one lift more weight? I know the larger one will move more slowlly then the small one due to volume of oil neede to fill cylinder but I not sure of the lifting capabilities. Anyone that knows anything would be great.:anyone:
L355SS
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2012
- Messages
- 81
- Location
- Mountaindale, Oregon
- Tractor
- Allis Chalmers ACD19, ACG; Kubota BX2200 FEL, B2710 FEL, L355SS FEL; Cat D47U, Ford 4600SU FEL
To prevent the 3-pt from lifting if you have little tongue weight, I wrap a short length of chain from the hitch bar to the top link. This prevents what you are showing in the photo. Just remember to remove the chain before raising/lowering the 3-pt hitch.
Dennis
Dennis
My tractor with FEL is probably 4200 lbs but only has 28HP so as you can see this trailer I built is good sized for IT. HOWEVER the tong weight is low and when loading I HAVE to load the front of the trailer first otherwise it will tip up when un-hooked. I drop it and use the FEL to load gravel out of my dry creek/wash. I fill up the front of the trailer normally first and have tipped it up when re-hooking with the Box Blade Ball mount which I have to have the trailer leaning back to get under the dump tong hitch. When using the yellow T bar/Ball I do not have this issue or when I leave it hooked to the truck or neighbor's tractor.
More images of the build & details are on Photo-bucket in the same folder.
It will hold ~2.5 yards of gravel and has a 7K lb axle under it. I was going to put 2 under it but needed the maneuverability around the farm & the bridge prob ably could easily be overloaded with a dual axle trailer.
Behind the truck for perspective.
Mark
I just meant to take the axle and frame rails maybe. Send the bed to the scrap yard and build a real bed and dump mechanism. The taller truck tires will pull easier in soft ground than overloaded four wheeler tires plus they will be close to the sides so you can load over them. I think two axle carts are too much complication for a small tractor personally.
600rider
Gold Member
Here is a like to a trailer that Iplayfarmer made a couple years ago. it is a long read but worth it although he pulls it with a garden tractor so it is small.
TractorByNet.com - Compact Tractor Forum his is made of steel frame and wood deck and sides.
here is the link to the build I did in April of 2011. Mine has a walking beam axle and hydraulic dump and is all steel and pulled with my B7510 Kubota.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/204019-my-version-kk-xb-dump.html?highlight=
it also is a long read but may be of some help to you.
TractorByNet.com - Compact Tractor Forum his is made of steel frame and wood deck and sides.
here is the link to the build I did in April of 2011. Mine has a walking beam axle and hydraulic dump and is all steel and pulled with my B7510 Kubota.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/204019-my-version-kk-xb-dump.html?highlight=
it also is a long read but may be of some help to you.
Leejohn
Elite Member
Attachments
Leejohn
Elite Member
I looked at your trailer and you sure done a good job. It looks heavy, is it? Now that it has been awhile did the cyl do ok? The reason I ask is the rod looks small.
600rider
Gold Member
Leejohn, my trailer is quit heavy but I have not weighed it. Best guess would be between 500# and 700#. the dump works fantastic!!! The Cylinder is a double acting 3"x18" with a 1 1/8" tie rod cylinder. I had filled it with road millings to the top and heaped it some and it dumped without a grunt! I think I calculated that is holds 2.16 tons. I am well pleased with it's performance!
Leejohn
Elite Member
By the picture the rod didn't look that big. I bet you are well pleased, again a nice trailer.
