drying welding rod

/ drying welding rod #1  

Shimon

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I have about 40lbs of welding rod that has been sitting in my garage for the last 3 years in a cardboard box. I know the rods didn't get wet but I'm sure the dampness affected them. I plan on buying a small dryer and was wondering if drying them after being damp is ok or if the rods should be replaced. It's mostly 6013 and 6011 and some 316 stainless and 7018 and 1106 (I think) and some other. I know 7018 is pretty susceptible to moisture but I'm not sure of the others. So, is drying them after the fact ok or a waste of time?
 
/ drying welding rod #2  
I wouldn't suggest using your oven unless you have one that you do not cook in. The easiest and cheapest way to dry welding rods is to place them in a box and put a good hot light bulb over them. It warms them up and the moisture evaporates out.
 
/ drying welding rod
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks for the reply.

I wasn't planning on using my oven I was planning on buying a small rod dryer specifically to store rods in. I just wanted to know if a dryer would rejuvenate damp rods or if the rods were worthless once exposed to moisture.
 
/ drying welding rod #4  
I think it depends on what your going to be using them for. Just welding on your equipment around your house you should be fine. If your a pipefitter working at a nuclear plant, that would be a different story. We used to keep ours in an old refrigerator with a hot lamp inside. Worked pretty good. Wonder what thingy,,,, would,,,have to ,,,,say?
 
/ drying welding rod #5  
I would think any old side of road fridge with a bulb in it and turned on would save you lots of money, I use a 40 watt 130 volt bulb in my gun cabinet and it works great
:)
 
/ drying welding rod #6  
Chances are the rods will okay. If any of the coating spalls off they are not.

The rod oven is a good idea.:D :D Chances are many more people should be using them.:D
 
/ drying welding rod #7  
That's what we have here at work.. an old fridge with the lamp rigged to stay on.. etc.

Soundguy
 
/ drying welding rod #8  
Shimon,

Here's what Lincoln Electric has to say about drying electrodes. You'll get the gist of it here... Here's the link to the actual article where the charts will make more sense (they didn't copy and paste very well here). You'll notice that the ol' fridge with the light on isn't going to get the job done... (but it certainly doesn't hurt anything!)



Storing and Re-drying Stick Electrodes
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storing1.jpg
Electrodes for Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW) or stick electrodes must be properly stored in order to deposit quality welds. When stick electrodes absorb moisture from the atmosphere, they must be dried in order to restore their ability to deposit quality welds. Electrodes with too much moisture may lead to cracking or porosity. Operational characteristics may be affected as well. If you've experienced unexplained weld cracking problems, or if the stick electrode arc performance has deteriorated, it may be due to your storage methods or re-drying procedures.
Follow these simple storage, exposure and re-drying techniques to ensure the highest quality welds, as well as the best operational characteristics from your stick electrodes.

storing4.jpg
Storing Low Hydrogen Stick Electrodes
Low hydrogen stick electrodes must be dry to perform properly. Unopened Lincoln hermetically sealed containers provide excellent protection in good storage conditions. Opened cans should be stored in a cabinet at 250 to 300ï½°F (120 to 150ï½°C).
Low hydrogen stick electrode coatings that have picked up moisture may result in hydrogen induced cracking, particularly in steels with a yield strength of 80,000 psi (550 MPa) and higher.
Moisture resistant electrodes with an "R" suffix in their AWS classification have a high resistance to moisture pickup coating and, if properly stored, will be less susceptible to this problem, regardless of the yield strength of the steel being welded. Specific code requirements may indicate exposure limits different from these guidelines.
All low hydrogen stick electrodes should be stored properly, even those with an "R" suffix. Standard EXX18 electrodes should be supplied to welders twice per shift. Moisture resistant types may be exposed for up to 9 hours.
When containers are punctured or opened, low hydrogen electrodes may pick up moisture. Depending upon the amount of moisture, it will damage weld quality in the following ways:
1. A greater amount of moisture in low hydrogen electrodes may cause porosity. Detection of this condition requires x-ray inspection or destructive testing. If the base metal or weld metal exceeds 80,000 psi (550 MPa) yield strength, this moisture may contribute to under-bead or weld cracking.
2. A relatively high amount of moisture in low hydrogen electrodes causes visible external porosity in addition to internal porosity. It also may cause excessive slag fluidity, a rough weld surface, difficult slag removal, and cracking.
3. Severe moisture pickup can cause weld cracks in addition to under-bead cracking, severe porosity, poor appearance and slag problems.

storing2.jpg
Re-drying Low Hydrogen Stick Electrodes
Re-drying, when done correctly, restores the electrodes' ability to deposit quality welds. Proper re-drying temperature depends upon the electrode type and its condition.
One hour at the listed final temperature is satisfactory. DO NOT dry electrodes at higher temperatures. Several hours at lower temperatures is not equivalent to using the specified requirements.
Electrodes of the E8018 and higher strength classifications should be given no more than three one-hour re-dries in the 700 to 800ï½°F (370 to 430ï½°C) range. This minimizes the possibility of oxidation of alloys in the coating resulting in lower than normal tensile or impact properties.
Any low hydrogen electrode should be discarded if excessive re-drying causes the coating to become fragile and flake or break off while welding, or if there is a noticeable difference in handling or arc characteristics, such as insufficient arc force.
Electrodes to be re-dried should be removed from the can and spread out in the oven because each electrode must reach the drying temperature.
Re-Drying Conditions - Low Hydrogen Stick Electrodes
Condition Pre-drying Temperature(1) Final Re-drying Temperature E7018, E7028 E8018, E9018,
E10018, E11018
Electrodes exposed to air for less than one week; no direct contact with water. N/A 650 to 750ï½°F
(340 to 400ï½°C) 700 to 800ï½°F
(370 to 430ï½°C) Electrodes which have come in direct contact with water or which have been exposed to high humidity. 180 to 220ï½°F
(80 to 105ï½°C) 650 to 750ï½°F
(340 to 400ï½°C) 700 to 800ï½°F
(370 to 430ï½°C) (1) Pre-dry for 1 to 2 hours. This will minimize the tendency for coating cracks or oxidation of the alloys in the coating.

storing3.jpg
Storing and Re-drying Non-Low Hydrogen Electrodes
Electrodes in unopened Lincoln cans or cartons retain the proper moisture content indefinitely when stored in good condition.
If exposed to humid air for long periods of time, stick electrodes from opened containers may pick up enough moisture to affect operating characteristics or weld quality. If moisture appears to be a problem, store electrodes from the opened containers in heated cabinets at 100 to 120ï½°F (40 to 50ï½°C). DO NOT use higher temperatures, particularly for electrodes from the "Fast Freeze" group.
Some electrodes from wet containers or long exposure to high humidity can be re-dried. Adhere to the procedures in the following table for each type.
Re-Drying Conditions - Non-Low Hydrogen Stick Electrodes
Stick Electrode Electrode Group Final Re-drying Temperature Time E6010: Fleetweld 5P, 5P+
E6011: Fleetweld 35, 35LS, 180
E7010-A1: SA-85(1)
E7010-G: SA-HYP+(1)
E8010-G: SA-70+(1), SA-80(1)
E9010-G: SA-90(1) Fast Freeze - Excessive moisture is indicated by a noisy arc and high spatter, rusty core wire at the holder end or objectionable coating blisters while welding. Re-baking of this group of stick electrodes is not recommended.
Not Recommended N/A E7024: Jetweld 1, 3
E6027: Jetweld 2 Fast Fill - Excessive moisture is indicated by a noisy or "digging" arc, high spatter, tight slag, or undercut. Pre-dry unusually damp electrodes for 30 - 45 minutes at 200ï½°F to 230ï½°F (90 - 110ï½°C) before final drying to minimize cracking of the coating. 400 to 500ï½°F
(200 to 260ï½°C) 30 - 45
minutes E6012: Fleetweld 7
E6013: Fleetweld 37
E7014: Fleetweld 47
E6022: Fleetweld 22 Fill Freeze - Excessive moisture is indicated by a noisy or "digging" arc, high spatter, tight slag or undercut. Pre-dry unusually damp electrodes for 30 - 45 minutes at 200ï½° - 230ï½°F (90ï½° - 110ï½°C) before final drying to minimize cracking of the coating. 300 to 350ï½°F
(150 to 180ï½°C) 20 - 30
minutes (1) Pre-dry for 1 to 2 hours. This will minimize the tendency for coating cracks or oxidation of the alloys in the coating.
Using longer drying times or higher temperatures can easily damage the electrodes. For drying, remove the electrodes from the container and spread them out in the furnace because each stick electrode must reach the drying temperature.
 
/ drying welding rod #9  
With all that from Lincoln said,

If you're not doing X-ray quality work (which I assume that your're not, since you're asking this question ;)) just go ahead and use them. They will weld just fine, they just won't be "low hydrogen". No need for the average hobby weldor/farmer/whatever to throw away serviceable 7018 electrodes... They will just weld the same as any other non-"low hydrogen" electrode like 6010, 6011, 6013, 7014, 7024, etc. You just won't be passing any X-ray tests with them. But they'll hold- assuming you do your part ;)
 
/ drying welding rod #10  
More to it than I realized- I keep mine in some of those screw cap electrode tubes they sell, it gets very humid here in SC.
BTW What's wrong with using the oven in the house? I've used it for all sorts of things, drying paint and curing epoxy etc..the wife long ago gave up trying to reform me:p
 
/ drying welding rod #11  
Skyco said:
More to it than I realized- I keep mine in some of those screw cap electrode tubes they sell, it gets very humid here in SC.
BTW What's wrong with using the oven in the house? I've used it for all sorts of things, drying paint and curing epoxy etc..the wife long ago gave up trying to reform me:p

Nothing at all that I can think of... ;)

I usually wait until I'm at home and the wife is gone before I use any kitchen appliances though... It's always easier to beg for forgiveness than to ask for permission!!! :D :p :cool:
 
/ drying welding rod #12  
As Brain said, just use them. I've found that striking an arc briefly seems to dry them out pretty well. I'm not a pro welder but I live in damp old Houston and do weld some. Most of my rods are stored in the garage and weld good enough for me.
 
/ drying welding rod #13  
I bought a near-complete 50 lb box of 6011 from an elderly farmer that must have been 10-20 years old. I store them in the house to keep the moisture content down. They work fine.

After reading Lincoln's stuff it seems like only the low-hydrogen rods are ruined by moisture, while 6011 and 6013 just need ordinary low-humidity storage for farm-grade work.
 
/ drying welding rod #14  
Skyco said:
More to it than I realized- I keep mine in some of those screw cap electrode tubes they sell, it gets very humid here in SC.
BTW What's wrong with using the oven in the house? I've used it for all sorts of things, drying paint and curing epoxy etc..the wife long ago gave up trying to reform me:p

Ovens used to cook food should be used for nothing but that purpose. If you use a oven to heat other things chemicals can be released and the next time you cook can be deposited in your food. I would rather not poison myself if I can avoid it. If you want a oven to use for "projects" do what I did. Go to the local auction house and buy a old beater electric oven and use it for non food projects.
 
/ drying welding rod
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Great info here. Thanks for all the replies and thanks xlr82v2 for the good info from Lincoln.

My welding is pretty basic stuff around the house and property so I guess I won't worry too much about it. I'll hold off on getting an electrode dryer/oven until I find that I actually need one. Maybe I'll do as DieselPower suggests and buy a small used electric toaster oven.
 
/ drying welding rod #16  
xlr82v2 said:
Shimon,

Here's what Lincoln Electric has to say about drying electrodes. You'll get the gist of it here... [.

While it may not be great fro drying wet ones.. it may help to keep dry ones dry.. etc. especially in conjunction with something like a sealed storage tube.. etc..

Soundguy
 
/ drying welding rod #17  
I live in Tidewater, VA. The name gives some clue as to the amount of humidity. I've really noticed the difference in welding if I dry my 6013 rod for 30 minutes at 220 deg F.
 
/ drying welding rod #18  
Go to Goodwill, etc., and pick up a toaster oven to dry them out in. Should only cost you $5 to $10. Won't work to store them in, but you can turn it down to around 225F and it should dry them out with no problems.

Barring that, go to Target / KMart / Walmart / etc. and get a toaster oven for $30.
 
/ drying welding rod
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Well, I was doing some welding this weekend and I think all my 6011 rod is pretty damp because it wouldn't weld worth a darn. At first I thought I was out of practice or maybe I'm just not very good but then I was welding some stainless with brand new 316 rod and it welded perfectly. So, I'm off to get a small oven to see if I can dry out some of these rods. Thanks again for all the good advice.
 
/ drying welding rod #20  
Shimon said:
Well, I was doing some welding this weekend and I think all my 6011 rod is pretty damp because it wouldn't weld worth a darn. At first I thought I was out of practice or maybe I'm just not very good but then I was welding some stainless with brand new 316 rod and it welded perfectly. So, I'm off to get a small oven to see if I can dry out some of these rods. Thanks again for all the good advice.
Shimon,

Hold on a minute... :p Remember that 6010/6011 DOES NOT lay a pretty, smooth bead like 6013, 7014, 7018, 308L, etc. 6010/11 has a very aggressive, "digging" arc and leaves behind a lot of spatter, with light, rather difficult to remove slag. That's normal for this rod. I've heard of weldors actually soaking 6010/11 in water on purpose before using them (why, I don't know:confused:)... so I would really be suprised if they're too wet.

Also, 5lbs of new rod would be cheaper than buying an oven to try to dry them;)... plus, it's not recommended to re-bake 6011.
 

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