Driving with rotory cutter

/ Driving with rotory cutter #21  
Right off the bat i can see that the metal on that 3pt a-frame is thinner -looking- than my 'old' red KK 5' mower.

Also.. any chance the pto shaft was too long for the application and put pressure on the a-frame when it was lifted ??

Soundguy
 

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/ Driving with rotory cutter #22  
Soundguy said:
Also.. any chance the pto shaft was too long for the application and put pressure on the a-frame when it was lifted ??
Soundguy
or was a stump or a solid rock caught by the front of the mower?
 
/ Driving with rotory cutter #23  
Good point!

soundguy
 
/ Driving with rotory cutter #24  
JerryG said:
or was a stump or a solid rock caught by the front of the mower?

No stumps or rocks were caught by the mower, the field I cut was actually very clean. It was on the trip back from the field that this happened.

The PTO shaft wasn't too long either. I remember checking that when I first got the mower.
 
/ Driving with rotory cutter #25  
In an earlier post, I made mention of a KK mower my employer bought that had cracked a couple welds and wadded up the hitch. It did EXACTLY the same thing as your picture, only bent a little more. When that happened, we loaded it up and took it back to where it was bought. They gave us an exchange, without question, contrary to the normal practice of this particular store when dealing with returned merchandise (leading us to believe this sort of thing isn't all that UNcommon with KK) While looking at the "new ones" while my boss was handling the paperwork, I couldn't help but notice how the bar stock that makes up the upper "mast" of the 3-point was different from mower to mower. Almost like they were "free-handed" when bending them to shape. Most of the breaks (angles) in the bar stock was not straight (90 degrees to the run of the bar)

Without a doubt, KK uses the minimal amount of iron in their products. They are LIGHT duty and barely that at times. Use inadaquate material to build something in a less than precise manner, and you have a weak sister.



IF....if you can get it exchanged for another mower OR get replacement parts, and it should do the same thing again, I'd look at the geometry of the 3-point hitch also. Is the upper link reasonably close to parallel to the lower links? Or is it at a steep angle, higher towards the mower end? That would put a great bit of downward load as well as the "normal" load pulling forward towards the tractor, on the now bent bar stock. (Some tractors have multiple attaching points for the top link. It MAY be a case where you need to run the top link in the highest possible position to achieve the correct hitch geometry)
 
/ Driving with rotory cutter #26  
First, and I've seen this before on this board, it looks like your rotating top link is mounted backwards. It should travel front-to-top as opposed to top-to-back. Now, if the mount was structurally sound, it probably shouldn't make a huge difference, but, we've had posters here before who've seen damage on KKs when the rotating link was mounted backwards. Did you assemble it or did the dealer?

If all is as you describe, it does look like you deserve an exchange or refund here. Are you married to the KK? A couple of years ago I looked at KK and Howse and eventually went with Howse in part because of the 3pt frame we are now discussing in addition to the bolt-on chain guard kits they offer which KK doesn't and don't make easy to do. Just yesterday I used it to pulverize a bunch of 1" and plus branches, roots, and brush littering the place. It and the 8N ran through them without a real sweat.

Just a thought and there are some other decent low-end makers out there....BigBee, Mohawk, etc.
 
 

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