drilling a hole 12inches deep???

[muddstopper]

If you're interested, I have a spare 1-7/8" drill you can have. The flutes are right at 6" long, so you could get the majority of
your hole drilled, then use your boring bar.

View attachment 425686
View attachment 425687

Not sure of the taper, but you could possibly turn it to fit your tailstock...

Feel free to PM your address, and the USPS will be thrilled to deliver!

Tim

Tim, I tried to PM you, but for some reason every time I click send message, or preview message, I get redirected to a comcast site trying to sell me something. Maybe you can PM me and we'll see if we can communicate that way

Sent email

 

[Mysfyt]

Originally Posted by Brad_Blazer
Here's another vendor. They had the best shipped price I could find for a couple of pieces of DOM I recently ordered.
The Best Place To Buy Metals & Industrial Supplies Online | Buy Metals Online | Buy Industrial Supplies Online | Cut to Size | No Minimum Order | CNC Laser Cutting | CNC Machining
2 ft of 2.5in od x 2in id =$31.40 +shipping, I wasted more time than that trying to cut it. Should of just ordered it to start with

Been there, done that, got the tee shirt!

 

[Creamer]

Originally Posted by Brad_Blazer
Here's another vendor. They had the best shipped price I could find for a couple of pieces of DOM I recently ordered.
The Best Place To Buy Metals & Industrial Supplies Online | Buy Metals Online | Buy Industrial Supplies Online | Cut to Size | No Minimum Order | CNC Laser Cutting | CNC Machining
2 ft of 2.5in od x 2in id =$31.40 +shipping, I wasted more time than that trying to cut it. Should of just ordered it to start with

Been there, done that, got the tee shirt!

Yes - but it is more satisfying to know you could do it. Still next time you order it because you have already proved it to yourself!

 

[pycoed]

If you have already chewed a 1" hole from each end you are nearly there.

Instead of making a long boring bar to bore the work conventionally, think laterally: line bore.

Get a piece of 1" bar suitably long enough & centre drill each end. Cross drill this to take a HSS cutter ground as a normal boring cutter & secure with a set screw (grub screw in American?). Mount the 2 1/2 in stock on the cross slide, packing up to centre level & using milling type clamps to secure.
Mount the bar between centres & drive with a dog for a precision job, or just hold one end in the three jaw & use the tail centre the other end. DON'T Use the cross slide to apply cuts lock it to be safe, but use the self act for the boring. Increase boring diameter by extending the cutter after each pass (measure with mike/calipers)

 

[muddstopper]

If you have already chewed a 1" hole from each end you are nearly there.

Instead of making a long boring bar to bore the work conventionally, think laterally: line bore.

Get a piece of 1" bar suitably long enough & centre drill each end. Cross drill this to take a HSS cutter ground as a normal boring cutter & secure with a set screw (grub screw in American?). Mount the 2 1/2 in stock on the cross slide, packing up to centre level & using milling type clamps to secure.
Mount the bar between centres & drive with a dog for a precision job, or just hold one end in the three jaw & use the tail centre the other end. DON'T Use the cross slide to apply cuts lock it to be safe, but use the self act for the boring. Increase boring diameter by extending the cutter after each pass (measure with mike/calipers)

I would have to see that done to know what your talking about. I suppose I could clamp the stock in the cross slide and mount the boring bar in my 4jaw and off set the bar off center and line bore it that way, I could use the cross slide to feed the stock to the bar. Not exactly sure how I would center the stock up with the lathe centers to make that work. I am sure the set up time would take a while. Also not sure the boring bar wouldnt sling out of the chuck and dent my hard head. With my limited experience with machining, I think it might be safer if i didnt start trying to rig up something I aint sure about and havent seen done before.

 

[Mysfyt]

If you have already chewed a 1" hole from each end you are nearly there.

Instead of making a long boring bar to bore the work conventionally, think laterally: line bore.

Get a piece of 1" bar suitably long enough & centre drill each end. Cross drill this to take a HSS cutter ground as a normal boring cutter & secure with a set screw (grub screw in American?). Mount the 2 1/2 in stock on the cross slide, packing up to centre level & using milling type clamps to secure.
Mount the bar between centres & drive with a dog for a precision job, or just hold one end in the three jaw & use the tail centre the other end. DON'T Use the cross slide to apply cuts lock it to be safe, but
use the self act for the boring. Increase boring diameter by extending the cutter after each pass (measure with mike/calipers)

Pycoed, do you have any pictures of doing this? Would like to see your set up.

 

[GLyford]

You are using the carriage of the lathe as a milling table. You are using the rotating bar in the lathe as a cutter support. Moving the crossfeed positions the workpiece relative to the lathe centerline, so once the piece is set, don't move it. All your "milling" feeds will be done by moving the carriage.

The cutter bar needs to be long enough for the whole workpiece to be on either side of the cutter, so for a 1' long sleeve, you would need a bar at least 2' long, with the cutter centered, plus a little bit more to be able to access the bit to adjust the "stickout" and advance the cutter. The bar needs a hole for a piece of HSS to go through, and one perpendicular for a setscrew (or even one from each side) to hold it in place. The other thing to remember is that for every .001 you extend the cutting bit, your diameter increases by .002.

I have done this exactly once. It was just a "cleanup" cut to get a centered hole in a casting that had been worn out of round, and didn't need to be precise...which is good because it sure wasn't pretty. I have no pictures of the setup or results.

 

[pycoed]

If you have already chewed a 1" hole from each end you are nearly there.

Instead of making a long boring bar to bore the work conventionally, think laterally: line bore.

Get a piece of 1" bar suitably long enough & centre drill each end. Cross drill this to take a HSS cutter ground as a normal boring cutter & secure with a set screw (grub screw in American?). Mount the 2 1/2 in stock on the cross slide, packing up to centre level & using milling type clamps to secure.
Mount the bar between centres & drive with a dog for a precision job, or just hold one end in the three jaw & use the tail centre the other end. DON'T Use the cross slide to apply cuts lock it to be safe, but
use the self act for the boring. Increase boring diameter by extending the cutter after each pass (measure with mike/calipers)

Pycoed, do you have any pictures of doing this? Would like to see your set up.

I don't have a picture of my setup - last time I did it I was boring the base of an old Redding shotgun reloading press I'd been given. This was only about 4" wide, but the principle is the same. I did find this set up, which gives the general idea, though a LOT newer (& smaller) than my lathe !

 

[CNC Dan]

keith fenner on youtube had a good video of line boring on his lathe.

 

[pycoed]

keith fenner on youtube had a good video of line boring on his lathe.

Ah! Of course I should have remembered that - he has loads of good stuff on his Youtube channel - hours of fun!

 

[muddstopper]

OK, after seeing a picture, I understand a little better. Dont have the clamps to make this work, but now I see how it works. Going to go watch a few youtube videos now and see what other tricks I can pick up.

 

[Mysfyt]

Nice looking lathe, Pycoed! The cross feed looks unconventional though. I own three lathes with the standard tee slot for the QC or old lantern post tool holder and they don't offer much in the way of clamping for such a set up. What kind of lathe is it. Sorry, don't mean to hijack this thread.

 

[muddstopper]

Talk about getting interested in machining video's. Fell asleep last night in my chair watching all kind of vid's of running a lathe. Woke up at 5am with a broke neck. Learned a bunch, altho I have not tried out anything yet. Now that I know some of what can be done, I think I will just build a steam engine next wk, hour or two should be all it takes. JK. I did see how some of the things I have been wanting to do are done. Just been afraid to try in the past. I did win the ebay bid on the drills, just dont know if they have the proper taper to fit my machine. Cutting tapers seem fairly easy enough to try, going to practice on some round stock first, but just wondering if trying to recut the tapers on drill bits if I might run into the metal being to hard to do and whether to use HHS or carbide cutters.

 

[Mysfyt]

The shanks are machinable on decent quality drills. I used carbide to cut some of mine down. I should add that they are case hardened and get easier to machine once your in .030" or so.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Keep your eye on Ebay and you can buy used tooling for pennies on the dollar. What you needed initially was a good spade drill and coolant. Do 6" from each end.

PS, I have a lathe and no tooling at home. Not even hooked up yet to 3 phase. Mainly because I manage a shop and have everything I need at work for "government" jobs.

If somebody walked up to me and asked me to quote your job, I would probably estimate about $300 (if I already had the spade toolholder and a lathe with a big enough hollow spindle). People don't understand how expensive tooling is these days.

 

[muddstopper]

No doubt about it, buying a lathe is the cheapest part of this hobby. Tooling is where the money is. What I found really interesting is just what little amount of tooling is needed for some of the simple things I want to do. Its not so much what you have, but how you use it. I knew you could cut tapers with a Lathe, but I always thought you needed a taper attachment do it, After watching a few videos, I now know all You have to do is spin you compound around and cut from the end. Want to cut a gear, Lock the lathe head and just use a cutting bit to broach out the pattern. Stuff like this I didnt know before starting this deep hole project,. Oh, I also found out how to make my own boring bar. They say a good machinist can take a lathe and build every part for a lathe. I probably wont ever get to that level, but I'll practice and should be able to take care of most of my machining needs.

 

[pycoed]

Nice looking lathe, Pycoed! The cross feed looks unconventional though. I own three lathes with the standard tee slot for the QC or old lantern post tool holder and they don't offer much in the way of clamping for such a set up. What kind of lathe is it. Sorry, don't mean to hijack this thread.

It isn't my lathe! That's a Myford (7" swing) from a Google search for a line boring image. I have three - a Drummond (7" swing) dating from 1905 which is in poor condition, a Kerry AG23 (11" swing) which is my usual goto, & a Harrison 11" with metric leadscrew.
(Kerry & Harrison are standard industrial lathes from the 1960's/70's you can see them all on Lathes)

Lots of UK lathes were fitted with cross slide tee slots, probably because milling machines weren't as common in UK as over the pond- at least in little one man band machine shops & hobbyists. The lathe was used for everything!
There's excellent info available on some of the model engineering sites for "unconventional" lathe use, also some of the little engineering booklets dating either side of WWII are mines of information on how to set up & machine awkward bits.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

We need to lobby for a machining zone here

 

[downsizingnow48]

We need to lobby for a machining zone here

Agree would be very interesting and helpful. I think a lot of TBN folk have excellent, practical machining experience and all could learn by sharing more.

 

[bigdeano]

Here's a picture of me boring out a motorcycle engine cover for a different size water pump seal. It's bolted to a makeshift angle plate, and the boring bar is in the chuck. The engine is in my garden tractor, so maybe it's ok to post it on a tractor forum.