Drag Harrow Project

[Case485Guy]

My concern is that the hitch arms will too low unless those existing flatbars are angled up some. Then install the top link mast plumb in this position.

I was looking at that too, wished i had the tractor here to test fit. I know my hitch arms will go almost to ground level when lowered all the way. I think I may have to modify the top link connection, my top link may extend that far, not sure. May have to build the 3 point connection completely, I had this old one laying around, came with some other 3 point equipment I had bought about a year ago.

 

[Soundguy]

keep the pics coming!

 

[sixdogs]

I was looking at that too, wished i had the tractor here to test fit. I know my hitch arms will go almost to ground level when lowered all the way. I think I may have to modify the top link connection, my top link may extend that far, not sure. May have to build the 3 point connection completely, I had this old one laying around, came with some other 3 point equipment I had bought about a year ago.

I bet you're going to have to weld it rigid. Don't let me sound "down" because that really is a nice build.

 

[Case485Guy]

I bet you're going to have to weld it rigid. Don't let me sound "down" because that really is a nice build.

I may have to, I am curious to see how it does when I get it hooked up. I wish the tractor was not 100 miles away right now, anxious to see what it does. I dont think you sound "down", I like tinkering with projects like this. Sometimes ideas work, sometimes they don't

 

[sixdogs]

I built one a couple years ago--since sold--but I might still have a photo.

 

[sixdogs]

Here's the one I built. Originally, my intent was to mimic stuff I had seen on the net. It hinged high up so I could fold it for transport. Problem is, it pitched down in front during use and caused the back to kick up. I solved it by making a riged, yet adjustable stiff rod out of "ratchet adjuster" used to replace hyd cylinders for transport. I also had a hyd cylinder so it would fold up for transport. The safety chains held it during transport.

 

[Case485Guy]

Here's the one I built. Originally, my intent was to mimic stuff I had seen on the net. It hinged high up so I could fold it for transport. Problem is, it pitched down in front during use and caused the back to kick up. I solved it by making a riged, yet adjustable stiff rod out of "ratchet adjuster" used to replace hyd cylinders for transport. I also had a hyd cylinder so it would fold up for transport. The safety chains held it during transport.

Very nice build! Looks very heavy duty. Do you have pics of how you mounted the ratchet adjuster?

 

[sixdogs]

Very nice build! Looks very heavy duty. Do you have pics of how you mounted the ratchet adjuster?

Well, I don't. I bought one at TSC--maybe mail order --cut it in half and welded pipe in middle. It was maybe 50 inches long. My harrow was strong enough in the middle to not flex in use but yours looks lighter. A better way for you would be to make the pivot thing rigid and weld two pieces of pipe --one to each rear corner from the "A" frame of the toplink. These would need to be adjustable so you could make one or the other longer or shorter. If you use a LH and RH thread with locknuts you would not have to remove to adjust. This is a tricky thing to engineer.

I'm now rebuilding a drag harrow "harragator" and I have a thread on it in attachments.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...building-harragator-spike-harrow-project.html

Both concepts are fun and both work. The fun is in the building and welding and doing it by yourself or with kids. They'll never forget it. In fact, I mostly do this stuff because elders helped me 55 years ago. Guess it stuck.

 

[Case485Guy]

Well, I don't. I bought one at TSC--maybe mail order --cut it in half and welded pipe in middle. It was maybe 50 inches long. My harrow was strong enough in the middle to not flex in use but yours looks lighter. A better way for you would be to make the pivot thing rigid and weld two pieces of pipe --one to each rear corner from the "A" frame of the toplink. These would need to be adjustable so you could make one or the other longer or shorter. If you use a LH and RH thread with locknuts you would not have to remove to adjust. This is a tricky thing to engineer.

I'm now rebuilding a drag harrow "harragator" and I have a thread on it in attachments.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...building-harragator-spike-harrow-project.html

Both concepts are fun and both work. The fun is in the building and welding and doing it by yourself or with kids. They'll never forget it. In fact, I mostly do this stuff because elders helped me 55 years ago. Guess it stuck.

Mine is lighter than yours by far. We're mainly in a sandy loam soil, especially across a creek where I will be using it alot...its like beach sandy on that side. So I was trying to stay light so as to not dig in too deep, yet strong enough, not sure I achieved that...still not out much $$ so far, but we are having fun. Gotcha on the ratchet design, I have access to some big turnbuckles I can modify, think they 1-1/4" or 1-1/2", were used for guy wires on a work over rig at one time.They about 3' long closed position and have the jam nuts on them already. I found out today my shoulder surgery got bumped up to next Monday:thumbsup:, so definently going to property to see what it does this weekend, plus got to get the back yard cleanup and make my wife happy since she will be baby sitting me for a few days next week:laughing:
Thanks for the advice and ideas.

 

[jenkinsph]

When I first built my harrow with the pivot points across from the hitchpins I found that I was pulling the harrow with a rolling motion due to the high hitch point. I think if the hitch has longer vertical pieces that extend down close to the ground it should pull much better. Too much hitch weight might cause it to flip up in the rear also.

Sixdogs, lookiing at your harrow, looks heavy duty and a nice build. Curious what is all that metal for up top by the hitch. Looks like it weighs enough to make the front dig in deeper.


I have thought about building a combination tool for seeding (poor mans version) with a drop seeder up front mounted ahead of the harrow and adding rollers at the rear. I could use the roller with hydraulic raise and lower which would transfer some weight to the harrow for the opening and smoothing process roller raised up. Then the second pass dropping seed, harrowing over the seed and roller down to press the dirt down.
What do you guys think?