Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs?

[MossflowerWoods]

I bring four foot lengths from the bush with the tractor and I have used a sawbuck to block for years (see link). How to Build a Sawbuck for Cutting Firewood - wikiHow

studor,

I like the idea of the sawbuck, but I'm going to be bucking pretty big logs, maybe 12 footers, not sure. I've got SO MANY downed trees right now...

I'm going to look at building a larger version out of some scrap lumber I have... We shall see how it works.

Be well,
David

 

[DAY]

I've got SO MANY downed trees right now..

Get yourself a cant hook, and save your back. (And your chain.)

 

[Lloyd_E]

Some have more experience than I. Been sawing and bucking fire wood for the last 20 years.
My notes:
1/Safety,safety,safety!
A: eye, ear, head protection
B: take your cell with you or a two way radio/walkie talkies if you have them or a whistle if you are within ear shot of your house - explain to spouse or others 3 whistles means HELP/emergency!
C: When you get tired - STOP!
D: Bring and drink lots of water... beer or whatever is after you shower and relax admiring the stacked pile.
E: Be aware of others around you and your environment
2/ More safety! Pants or chaps a must plus steel toe boots or chainsaw boots. I also wear a good tight fitting pair of gloves. I use pants and do find them hot in summer so I usually wear shorts under them. The pants show the signs of doing their job. Wear them - even for that quick little job. If you don't sh*t can happen - I know!
3/ I generally cut the logs when piled. I have also built a number of sawbucks over the years - small to big ones - but find moving logs to them is an extra step. I do use them for smaller branches. I also made small sawbucks which hold the log about a foot off of the ground on one end. If you build one make the vertical parts are the correct width for your stove - ie:18" for stove length.
4/ I usually mark the stove length on the log before cutting it up - I use the saw to do this and like others I use a length on the bar for reference. I also use the cut halfway method and roll with peavey to finish the job. This will save your chain and bar a lot of wear.
5/ Clean your mess as you go - it will save time in the long run and prevent accidents.
6/ Have fun! Once everything is chunked and ready to be split I get the family involved.
It's amazing how fast the work will go when four people are involved!

Play safe

 

[Army grunt]

Elvis was alive when I started cutting fire wood.I cut it on the ground where it hits. I figure the fewer times I touch it the better.Now I am in the south(an no snow to worry about)I split it an Leave it in the woods till I need it.When I cut it I always cut the small end using this as starter an work to the big end as i get to the big end I cut till the blade pinches an cut again, then turn the log an finish cut. I have a really bad back so holding the saw up any longer that's necessary is out of the question. I find kneeling is easier. the saw bucks an holders of any kind requires picking stuff up (that's a no go)
I were ear plugs an safety glasses. Just think about what can happen an think. Go easy, cutting is fun. Sharp saw! Never use a dull blade! Good luck with what ever you do.
Army Grunt

 

[LD1]

I did not know they existed, so I will check them out. BUt are they really god enough to save you from a saw? David

Absolutly they will stop the chain cold:thumbsup:

Theres a video of how they work somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

As to the other things, so far, you have been given good advice. How WE cut, depends on the situation.

Sometimes, we will top the tree out (brush it out/cut all the brush off), and then drag the WHOLE tree (less the brush) to an open area and go to town. When you get to the larger stuff, it just depends on what equipment we have. Sometimes we lift it with the FEL, sometimes we cut 3/4 through and use the FEL to roll it over, other times we use the peavy.

Smaller stuff you can use a sawbuck on. But we usually have two of us, and when we get down to that, one runs the saw, and the other holds the peice over another block of wood and keeps feeding the sawer. But we usually dont have much small stuff. Because ALOT of it is already in the air naturally when the tree falls. So we just cut it up that way.

 

[LD1]

heres a pretty good video of how the chaps work.

Labonville Chainsaw Chaps - YouTube

 

[Putter]

I can't see the need for a stick and markers to gauge my cuts.
Once you have your target length... see where it "sits" on your saw with the saw parallel to the log. Gas cap, a letter on the body just a marker of some kind on the saw. Next cut, put your saw at the same point and eyeball where the tip is. Then cut there. I dip the tip til it marks the log sometimes but usually there is an obvious marker on the log already and you just have to pivot the saw.

 

[DAY]

I can't see the need for a stick and markers to gauge my cuts.

Agreed! Unless you are feeding several different size stoves, it doesn't take long to "know" where to make the cut.
Of course, you may be one of those perfectionists, who want a woodpile that looks like the ones in the ads- too nice to use, to burn

 

[Bigfoot62]

First of all, I'm new to running a chainsaw, i've only run 3 or 4 tanks of gas total, and all but 1 were on my Stihl 20" MS290 FarmBoss I bought in May. . .

I need to process my fire wood more efficiently. . .Does anyone use any kind of a platform to cut from? . . .

Good choice for a saw. I love Stihl products. My 024 is probably 25 years old, and it's still a great saw. :thumbsup:

I usually cut the log in place, never used a sawbuck. What you could do is to use several smaller logs on the ground, then lay the bigger logs across them at a perpendicular angle. That would get your cut off the ground, and make it easier to turn with the cant hook.

Here's a great description of the cant hook. Get one. Rural Heritage - Cant Hook or Peavey?

I'll repeat what's already been said: Buy some chaps and steel toe boots. Stihl Protective Wrap-Around Chaps Red Wing Pecos boots

I can't see the need for a stick and markers to gauge my cuts.
Once you have your target length... see where it "sits" on your saw with the saw parallel to the log. Gas cap, a letter on the body just a marker of some kind on the saw. Next cut, put your saw at the same point and eyeball where the tip is. Then cut there. I dip the tip til it marks the log sometimes but usually there is an obvious marker on the log already and you just have to pivot the saw.

Me too. The saw is already in my hand :thumbsup: If my desired wood length is not longer than the bar, I just have the bar marked with wide tip magic marker.

. . . Keeps the saw out of the dirt and is a lot easier on my old back. I'm getting a little long in the tooth to be bending over to cut my logs.

I don't have to bend over when I'm using the 046 Magnum with the 28" bar.

 

[Scooby074]

Mine is a simpler holder that I bought at the local Home Hardware. Here is the link:

Home Hardware - MARKER, WAND HAND HELD SPOTTER 12"

I think they are about $30 in Canada.

I have a 32" piece of broom stick with a mark in the middle that I use to mark off 16" lengths with a quick squirt of the gun. The gun takes the standard contractor's upside down spray cans.

I also carry a lumber crayon and plastic holder in my toolbox in case I forget the spray can. But the crayon does not work well if the bark is damp.

Thanks.

I just use my bar now to measure. The mingo marker in my post looks good. Anybody use it?

Cutting Firewood-Review of Mingo Marker for Measuring. - YouTube

 

[Gods Country]

I was going to go the sawbuck route, but I didn't want to bother building, and lifting the wood onto it (no grapple). I have a pile of logs about 20' long. I placed two 6' long logs about 5' apart near the center of the pile and placed a number of small diameter logs (around 6" but smaller than the 6' lengths) perpendicular to the 6' logs to fill the 5' gap. I roll a log onto the log platform and cut from either side until just the 6' center section remains.
The small logs in the middle allow me to cut the remaining length with minimal pinching and prevents cutting into the ground. The worse I have to do is maybe roll a 4' section once to cut from both sides. It's pretty quick and requires minimal messing around. I cut 1-2 logs up and then split and load up the wagon to stack.

I've found this to be the most efficient use of my time. Cut, split and stack small quantities at once. Otherwise it seems I move the same piles of wood 2 or 3 times.

 

[Redneck in training]

I always set the bar brake ON when walking with the saw especially in the limb mess. It takes only one slip or tripping to get hurt by falling on running chain or svinging the saw into your leg. I got in the habit after few close calls. It is easy. Push the guard forward to block the chain then pull it back just before cutting.

 

[kco]

I can't see the need for a stick and markers to gauge my cuts.

Agreed! Unless you are feeding several different size stoves, it doesn't take long to "know" where to make the cut.
Of course, you may be one of those perfectionists, who want a woodpile that looks like the ones in the ads- too nice to use, to burn

Guilty! But it is more a practical matter for me. I have two 8' x 8' x 8 to 10' high bins in my shed (photos attached) that I need to completely fill. I heat with a wood furnace that uses about 4 chords (= 1 bin) per year. As long as I fill the empty bin by fall I always burn wood that is at least one year old.

If I don't keep a consistent 16" length and size the wood pile is unstable.

I used to use the "saw bar" method for measuring and still do occasionally. But I gave it up for a few reasons:

1. it isn't as consistent (more correctly, I'm not consistent)
2. it adds some risk--I've had a couple of close calls where I knicked my pants or came close to my dog (who had just deposited a ball for me to throw) as I turned the saw parallel with the log. That's why I made the previous comment about concentrating, especially when finishing a cut.
3. the measuring stick marking gives me an excuse to rest and requires less effort and stress than constantly turning the saw.

These factors get more noticeable when you're 68+.

Another adjustment I made the last few years is I never take extra gas. I fill the saw, and when it's done, so am I. It keeps it enjoyable and helps me move better the next day.

I normally cut alone but sometimes cut with a neighbour who is 15 years younger, but his back is worse than mine. Then we take two full saws and quit when they're done. We rest and talk while we mark the next log and drink lots of water (beer comes later). And often sit on the logs and solve the world's problems. Woodcutting is one of the most enjoyable things one can do.

Another suggestion: the plastic bags in the second photo are full of birch bark which is great fire starter. If you're cutting birch, score the bark by running the saw the whole length. The bark will peel itself.

 

[DAY]

that is a dandy stack of firewood!
I have to ask: what is a government certified geezer doing with a set of CLIMBING IRONS? (I'm 70, and don't even much like my extension ladder any more. . .)

 

[kco]

that is a dandy stack of firewood!
I have to ask: what is a government certified geezer doing with a set of CLIMBING IRONS? (I'm 70, and don't even much like my extension ladder any more. . .)

:laughing: They are all that save me from wrecking fences, buildings and powerlines with my inconsistent (or consistently random) falling skills. They are from my 1960's lineman days, and I use them a lot. Mainly just go up 20 or 30' to attach a rope when there is no margin for error in directing the tree. I also occasionally use them to help my local wireless internet provider install radios. He went to great lengths to get internet up my narrow valley. My service runs through two neighbours' places whose internet is through landlines. But they let us put radios on their sites. Great neighbours!

 

[arrow]

Well Dave you have that beautiful tractor so lets take advantage of it. I'll tell you how I do it which is basically a miniturization of how I used to do it professionally. After the tree is dropped (this is in the woods at this time) I proceed to cut and separate the crown from the stem. Parts of the crown are suspended and these I'll cut with a downward stroke. Other parts may be tensioned so I'll find a space underneath to place the bar and cut upward. I do not mess with the crown much beyond that as there are too many things that can hurt you as the crown is lying against other trees.
Eventually I'll skid as much stem as the tractor will allow to a clearing or landing. I drop the stem and pile it up. Come the next season, I'll pluck the stem from the pile with the tractor and bring it over to the splitter. While it is on the fel, I'll cut it up into rounds. Of course the last piece is on the bucket splines so I'll drop that 6' long piece, make my top cuts halfway or more, turn the log and make my finish cuts. Seldom does my saw hit the ground as it never need to approach the ground. Now I'll go skid over the crowns to the landing as this relieves much of the previousely tensioned "widow makers". I'll cut these pieces from 4 to 6' long most of the time under cutting . I'll stack these up on the bucket splines and dump them in a neat pile. Then , I just cut them up using the rounds as rests for the other pieces cut so I do not have to go near the ground. Many guys use some type of saw horse here or cross buck and cut the smaller 3 and 4" thick pieces with that tool. What is essential in my mind here as tools beyond the chainsaw are wedges, cant hook, chaps and helmet with face screen.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Well Dave you have that beautiful tractor so lets take advantage of it. I'll tell you how I do it which is basically a miniturization of how I used to do it professionally. After the tree is dropped (this is in the woods at this time) I proceed to cut and separate the crown from the stem. Parts of the crown are suspended and these I'll cut with a downward stroke. Other parts may be tensioned so I'll find a space underneath to place the bar and cut upward. I do not mess with the crown much beyond that as there are too many things that can hurt you as the crown is lying against other trees.
Eventually I'll skid as much stem as the tractor will allow to a clearing or landing. I drop the stem and pile it up. Come the next season, I'll pluck the stem from the pile with the tractor and bring it over to the splitter. While it is on the fel, I'll cut it up into rounds. Of course the last piece is on the bucket splines so I'll drop that 6' long piece, make my top cuts halfway or more, turn the log and make my finish cuts. Seldom does my saw hit the ground as it never need to approach the ground. Now I'll go skid over the crowns to the landing as this relieves much of the previousely tensioned "widow makers". I'll cut these pieces from 4 to 6' long most of the time under cutting . I'll stack these up on the bucket splines and dump them in a neat pile. Then , I just cut them up using the rounds as rests for the other pieces cut so I do not have to go near the ground. Many guys use some type of saw horse here or cross buck and cut the smaller 3 and 4" thick pieces with that tool. What is essential in my mind here as tools beyond the chainsaw are wedges, cant hook, chaps and helmet with face screen.

Arrow,

Makes perfect sense sir!

David

 

[tawilson]

A set of skidding tongs hanging off the bucket from a chain works good for picking up and bucking logs. I can pick a log up, move it, and pop the tongs off without getting off the tractor.

 

[DAY]

Here's a pretty slick gizmo to move logs.
Small tractor log skidder.mpg - YouTube

 

[peterc38]

I cut about 25-30 cords of firewood a year solo. I have a sawbuck that I made but I never use it. I also have a logrite peavey with timberjack stand but I don't use the stand anymore either. The fastest way for me by far is cut 'em on the ground. I typically cut about 3/4 through the length of a log then roll with peavey and cut the rest of the way through. I have the space to do it and a nice dry cutting area, so I don't have a problem with dirt on logs caused by mud, etc. I cut whatever I can scrounge and also get grapple loads delivered.