Do I need a torque multiplier to get these nuts off?

[scollins]

From the photo, I saw where a ratchet wrench was used with a "cheater bar". That will FUBAR your ratchet mechanism. Get a BREAKER BAR , 3/4 min. with a 6-point impact socket and impact extension.
The regular sockets can shatter when used with an impact wrench and a 12 point socket will just round off the edges of the nuts. If all else fails, there is the oxyacetylene "blue wrench". The manufacturers recommend replacing the nuts and bots when changing blades, anyway.

 

[pclausen]

Ok, so after working on these 4 nuts on and off for the last 2.5 years, I FINALLY GOT THEM OFF!!! Just kidding, well sort off. I did actually get them off summer before last using a little heat. Problem was, that was only half the battle. The challenge I had then, and now, is trying to drive the bolts out to free the blades so that I can replace them.

I have lowered the stump jumper into a cinder block with a pair of 4x4 blocks on either side of the bolt pancake head, and then rested a 2" diameter piece of steel on top of the bolt thread and have whacked it like 50 times with a 10lbs sledge to no avail. Next I progressed to a tamping bar, standing immediately above the bolt and dropping the tamping bar directly down on the 2" piece of steel. And other than a lot of ringing in the tamping bar, noting. This is after soaking on the bolt in PB Blaster for days.

I guess my next step will be to heat up the bolt, then let it cool and try again...

 

[jeff9366]

This experience with your Bush Hog must be building CHARACTER and be bringing you and the implement closer---------

 

[RalphVa]

Your torque multiplier that you show in the picture isn't long enough. I use a 6 ft length (think it's 1 inch, maybe 1 1/4 inch) of steel pipe over the handle of my 3/4" drive. Even then, you'll need about 80 # pressure on the end of the pipe to get 450 ft lb nuts loose.

I use the same setup to "torque" them up. I basically tighten them until I can't move the pipe. Run the "hog" for 4 hours or so and check tightness.

Ralph

 

[kebo]

Heat the nut. Don't worry about damaging any seals, the seals are to far away from the nut with to much steel in between the two. It is not uncommon to replace (sacrifice) these 4 bolts.

According to the Torque class I went through at work, any nuts or bolts that have been torqued once, and removed, they should not be used again in an application that requires a torque setting. In other words, nuts or bolts should only be torqued once, and then tossed.

 

[RickB]

According to the Torque class I went through at work, any nuts or bolts that have been torqued once, and removed, they should not be used again in an application that requires a torque setting. In other words, nuts or bolts should only be torqued once, and then tossed.

Must be you work for a hardware manufacturer. That advise might be SOP for your workplace, but it runs contrary to most manufacturer's published machine technical information.

 

[LD1]

Class must have been put on by a bolt mfg.

Certain things...yes I believe you should replace the bolts. Things like head bolts or connecting rod caps. But for most things its a waste of money

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

According to the Torque class I went through at work, any nuts or bolts that have been torqued once, and removed, they should not be used again in an application that requires a torque setting. In other words, nuts or bolts should only be torqued once, and then tossed.

They taught you correctly. When the bolts are torqued the threads stretch and will not go back to the original size when loosened. At work we actually confirm bolt torque by measuring the initial and finial length of some critical bolts on assemblies to validate the torque drivers. Now for a lot of things it isn't necessary to scrap the bolt but something like a brush hog I would spend the money. I wouldn't want to be anywhere near one of those blades of the bolt fails.

 

[FTG-05]

I got a Bush Hog 3209 cutter, and I'm trying to get the 1 5/16" bolts off that holds the blades on as I'm replacing them.

The 4 nuts have been soaking in PB blaster for a week, but neither my 3/4" impact wrench (being feed from a 1/2" hose @ 150 psi), nor my 3/4" ratchet with an extension will break any of them free.

I spoke to my dealer about it and they use a torque multiplier in the shop for getting bolts like that loose. Here's a link to one that takes a 3/4" input:

Central Tool 6387 4:1 Torque Multiplier : Amazon.com : Automotive

Does anyone have any experience with these devices? For that price, I wonder if I would be better off getting a monster 1" impact wrench? On the other hand, it would be nice to be able to accurately torque large bolts.

Any other thought on how to break these nuts free? I'm have reservations about using heat given that the bolt are hard to get to and I don't want to cause damage to anything else.

Hopefully, not a hijack.

I have the 286 Bushhog and when it comes time for me to change the blades out, I have a question about the above picture. What keeps the blade assembly from turning as you are torquing on the bolt head? Are you clamping the gear box or the PTO shaft or what?

I always understood it that changing out a bushhog blade was a two man job, one on the bolt, one to hold the blade assembly from turning.

Thanks,

 

[whis]

blade can't turn with extension in the hole, for the op get a piece of round stock and weld it on the end of a piece of pipe or tubing ( it will look like the letter T ). get someone to hold it on the bolt and get a bigger hammer