DK35 Dead - Won't Start

Patches · Jun 19, 2012

Before you tear the console apart, check the start terminal on the solenoid for voltage when the key is turned to start. If you have 12 volts at the start terminal, it's the solenoid thats bad. You can check this by "jumping" from the start terminal to the battery terminal of the solenoid with a stout screw driver(JUST BE SURE EVERYTHINGS IN NEUTRAL) If you have no voltage at the start terminal, you have a switch/wire issue

pafoodplotter · Jun 19, 2012

Patches said:
Before you tear the console apart, check the start terminal on the solenoid for voltage when the key is turned to start. If you have 12 volts at the start terminal, it's the solenoid thats bad. You can check this by "jumping" from the start terminal to the battery terminal of the solenoid with a stout screw driver(JUST BE SURE EVERYTHINGS IN NEUTRAL) If you have no voltage at the start terminal, you have a switch/wire issue

There are 3 connections on the solenoid: positive (bolt), ground (bolt), and switch wire (clip of some sort). On Sunday I had 12+volts between the Positive and ground (i was checking for continuity issues between the ground and positive...no issues). I jumped them with a screwdriver, bolt to bolt (while in neutral), but nothing happened. But I did not check the start wire to the ground when switching the ignition. So since I jumped the pos and ground and the solenoid didn't switch, its the solenoid? Okay...makes sense to me. So I should be able to check the switch wire by measuring volts across the wire clip to ground when turning the key?

Thank you. I will check and recheck, and re-post tonight.

pafoodplotter · Jun 19, 2012

12v across neg and pos on the solenoid...jumped with a screwdriver and no movement in the starter. bad starter right?

Coyote machine · Jun 19, 2012

The battery cable connections to the frame and at the battery MUST be solid, and show no signs of corrosion. Pafoodplotter, if you were having problems at the battery terminal it could be bad, and is easily changed out by cutting it off and stripping back the jacket and replacing it with another terminal end. I tend to coat all my battery connections either with an anti-seize compound or battery terminal spray, either helps prevent oxidation/corrosion. One other thing to verify is that the actual cables have no shorts/opens by moving the cable with gloves on while trying to turn over the motor. If you have 12Volts and no voltage drop when turning the key its likely either the ignition switch or solenoid, but I'd tend to lean toward the switch.

Coyote machine · Jun 19, 2012

pafoodplotter said:
12v across neg and pos on the solenoid...jumped with a screwdriver and no movement in the starter. bad starter right?

Now disconnect your negative battery terminal and then disconnect the hot wire to your starter. Then go with jumper cables directly to the starter, from a known good battery, while tractor is in NEUTRAL, with the brake locked. One negative jumper wire to the chassis of tractor and positive to starter terminal that the positive wire from the battery was connected to previously. No sound/ spinning of starter/engine, then likely starter is dead. You could further diagnose after removing the starter, having done the above test first. If the starter DOES turn then its NOT the starter, and back to square one- battery, ignit switch, solenoid, etc.

pafoodplotter · Jun 19, 2012

Coyote machine said:
Now disconnect your negative battery terminal and then disconnect the hot wire to your starter. Then go with jumper cables directly to the starter, from a known good battery, while tractor is in NEUTRAL, with the brake locked. One negative jumper wire to the chassis of tractor and positive to starter terminal that the positive wire from the battery was connected to previously. No sound/ spinning of starter/engine, then likely starter is dead. You could further diagnose after removing the starter, having done the above test first. If the starter DOES turn then its NOT the starter, and back to square one- battery, ignit switch, solenoid, etc.

ok, i'm on it. thank you.

Coyote machine · Jun 19, 2012

You're welcome. Take your time, and have someone work with you if possible to keep the wires where you need them to be, safety first.

pafoodplotter · Jun 19, 2012

damned gremlins..the positive wire on the battery was loose (i replaced the neg and not the pos. last week when this first started)...it had probably been wiggling all this time. thank you for the lessons.

pafoodplotter · Jun 19, 2012

Coyote machine said:
You're welcome. Take your time, and have someone work with you if possible to keep the wires where you need them to be, safety first.

Agreed!

Coyote machine · Jun 20, 2012

So, problem solved?

pafoodplotter · Jun 20, 2012

Coyote machine said:
So, problem solved?

Problem solved! Thanks for the help.

loose positive wire on the battery.

MossflowerWoods · Jun 20, 2012

Coyote machine said:
So, problem solved?

CM,

I just want to say the last couple pages you were AWESOME, clear, concise, and very helpful. I hope I can remember all of this when I have issues. This is exactly what I really love about TBN. The friendship is wonderful, but the level o knowledge and experience, freely shared is just outstanding.

Well Done!
David

Coyote machine · Jun 21, 2012

MossflowerWoods said:
CM,

I just want to say the last couple pages you were AWESOME, clear, concise, and very helpful. I hope I can remember all of this when I have issues. This is exactly what I really love about TBN. The friendship is wonderful, but the level o knowledge and experience, freely shared is just outstanding.

Well Done!
David

Moss, Thanks very much for the kind words, I really appreciate it. I try my best to help when I can. I've learned just about everything I know about tractors on this site over the last 4 years or so. Without it I'd be lost regarding all kinds of tractor issues and basics.
Glad for pafoodplotter that it is solved, I would have been surprised if the starter had failed.
Now whats up with the original OP's start issue? Chaz...

WhatIsChazaq · Jun 21, 2012

Original Poster...back at it again.

I dropped a new battery in. NOTHING. Well, the same thing. I turn the key, no lights on the dash. I turn further to start it, nothing. As I turned it back to the run then back accessory (?), I hear the original "buzz" sound again. I try to start...nothing, no lights. Cycle the switch back through the different positions and hear the buzzing. I tried it a few times, each time there was less buzzing until it just didn't buzz any more.

Ideas? I'm about to call a pro in on this.

Coyote machine · Jun 21, 2012

Well you've ruled out the battery. Now it seems like you may be experiencing a relay issue or possibly a solenoid, etc. I don't recall if your under warranty or not? If you're not then diagnosis is crucial to save $ and not replace things that aren't going to solve the problem. Basically you need to go from teh battery out through the entire starting system until you find where the voltage is dropping out and then replace the item in question. Do you have a wiring diagram for your tractor? Do you have a multimeter to test out the circuit?

k0ua · Jun 21, 2012

WhatIsChazaq said:
Original Poster...back at it again.

I dropped a new battery in. NOTHING. Well, the same thing. I turn the key, no lights on the dash. I turn further to start it, nothing. As I turned it back to the run then back accessory (?), I hear the original "buzz" sound again. I try to start...nothing, no lights. Cycle the switch back through the different positions and hear the buzzing. I tried it a few times, each time there was less buzzing until it just didn't buzz any more.

Ideas? I'm about to call a pro in on this.

If you wish to continue, you might PM me with an email.. I might be able to assist

James K0UA

k0ua · Jun 21, 2012

WhatIsChazaq said:
Original Poster...back at it again.

I dropped a new battery in. NOTHING. Well, the same thing. I turn the key, no lights on the dash. I turn further to start it, nothing. As I turned it back to the run then back accessory (?), I hear the original "buzz" sound again. I try to start...nothing, no lights. Cycle the switch back through the different positions and hear the buzzing. I tried it a few times, each time there was less buzzing until it just didn't buzz any more.Ideas? I'm about to call a pro in on this.

Whoops.. I am sorry.. I mixed you up with the Kioti DK35 owner with the no start problem.. I see you have a Kubota
again sorry.. no need to PM me.

James K0UA

WhatIsChazaq · Jun 22, 2012

Not sure on the confusion of who I am and what I have.

I am the original poster with the no start problem and it is a DK35. WAY out of warranty. I think it is a 1998 model. I see you are in Branson. I'm not too far away to the east...
Google Map - Slow Belly Farm.

Hello neighbor!

MotorSeven · Jun 22, 2012

What, my vote is the ignition switch. Either replace it. or take it apart and clean it.

MossflowerWoods · Jun 22, 2012

WhatIsChazaq said:
Not sure on the confusion of who I am and what I have.

As of 5am EDT your profile still had a Kubota listed. I'm sure thet is what threw James off. He is an AWESOME guy BTW...

Your link does not work, but the name, idea, and google maps looks awesome! Say NO! to Fast Food! AMEN!

Be well,
David