DK35 Dead - Won't Start

[grsthegreat]

Time to buy a Kubota.:laughing:

gee, what do you know

New 2620 won't start---ideas? - TractorByNet.com

a NEW Kubota that wont start :laughing:

 

[Mousefield]

gee, what do you know

New 2620 won't start---ideas? - TractorByNet.com

a NEW Kubota that wont start :laughing:

Thanks for the link and laugh, grsthegreat.
Maybe some people should stay on the site that features the tractor they have.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Thanks for the link and laugh, grsthegreat.
Maybe some people should stay on the site that features the tractor they have.

But I like them all!

PS - I thought that comment was less than acceptable also...

David

 

[pafoodplotter]

Re: DK35 Dead - Won't Start....nor will mine!

My dk35 has all the same symptoms and my slow blow fuse is fine. No ground or pos. issues to the solenoid. No battery issues.. got 12.228 V between posts and wires. No lights. Occasional turn signal and a few dash lights l when switched on, and irregular buzz and groaning noise after I turn off the ignition.

I'm thinking I have to take apart the console and test the switch, check wires, and look for mouse nests!...right? BTW, I do store my tractor outside under a tarp. Perfect mouse habitat.

 

[Coyote machine]

To the OP: Have you checked from the 60amp fuse through to the relays, harness, instrument cluster?
The key switch and its wiring have been problematic for some Kioti series and any series Kioti which is exposed to rain, moisture, etc., especially if the key switch does not have the plastic cover to keep water out. Good news is they are able to be disassembled and cleaned and will often solve a problem if that happens to be the issue.
Do you, and /or pafoodplotter hear a click from the relay on the firewall when you turn the key before it hits crank position?
If not then there is a problem with powering the timer relay which assists in starting the engine.

 

[pafoodplotter]

To the OP: Have you checked from the 60amp fuse through to the relays, harness, instrument cluster?
The key switch and its wiring have been problematic for some Kioti series and any series Kioti which is exposed to rain, moisture, etc., especially if the key switch does not have the plastic cover to keep water out. Good news is they are able to be disassembled and cleaned and will often solve a problem if that happens to be the issue.
Do you, and /or pafoodplotter hear a click from the relay on the firewall when you turn the key before it hits crank position?
If not then there is a problem with powering the timer relay which assists in starting the engine.

The 60 amp fuse is not fried. No click..if anything delayed lights on the dash. What is causing the click?

Usually the brake, oil, and glow plug lights come on, but intermittent. Jiggling the key whilst in the start position does nothing. I believe my starter solonoid is ok but what about the starter? How do I kick the starter to make sure its not the problem.

So I'm thinking its time to take the console apart and look for a loose wire in the switch?

Thanks for your interest

 

[pafoodplotter]

To the OP: Have you checked from the 60amp fuse through to the relays, harness, instrument cluster?
The key switch and its wiring have been problematic for some Kioti series and any series Kioti which is exposed to rain, moisture, etc., especially if the key switch does not have the plastic cover to keep water out. Good news is they are able to be disassembled and cleaned and will often solve a problem if that happens to be the issue.
Do you, and /or pafoodplotter hear a click from the relay on the firewall when you turn the key before it hits crank position?
If not then there is a problem with powering the timer relay which assists in starting the engine.

so no click = timer relay??

 

[Alien]

The buzzing sound was likely a relay (in fact that is all it could be) Sounds like the power relay for the starter or main ignition relay is stuffed.

 

[DK35vince]

Re: DK35 Dead - Won't Start....nor will mine!

My dk35 has all the same symptoms and my slow blow fuse is fine. No ground or pos. issues to the solenoid. No battery issues.. got 12.228 V between posts and wires. No lights. Occasional turn signal and a few dash lights l when switched on, and irregular buzz and groaning noise after I turn off the ignition.

Thats exactly what my DK35 did when the battery went bad. (groan under the dash and all)
You need to do a load test on the battery. My battery showed 12+ volts also, but on a load tester it fell straight off.

 

[k0ua]

Re: DK35 Dead - Won't Start....nor will mine!

Thats exactly what my DK35 did when the battery went bad. (groan under the dash and all)
You need to do a load test on the battery. My battery showed 12+ volts also, but on a load tester it fell straight off.

My thoughts exactly. If you have a helper and a digital voltmeter you can test this yourself. put the digital voltmeter leads directly on the battery posts.. not the connectors, but directly on the battery post. this will eliminate any possible high resistance connections messing up this test.. Now have the helper operate the key and try to start the tractor.. I am betting your voltage will drop to 8 or less volts. If so your battery is bad. If it stays above 10.5 or so with a starter load on it, your OK.. of course in your case the starter never turns over even. Just because a battery measures above 12 volts in a static condition does NOT mean the battery is good. Batteries can have a high internal resistance and under a normal load can drop to very low voltages, and will come right back to above 12 volts with no load.

James K0UA

 

[Coyote machine]

Load testing the battery is crucial to knowing what is going on. Basically verify the battery is good, under load, and then check everything else going forward toward the key switch.
Sometimes even the battery cables can fail due to corrosion under the plastic jacket, but that is less likely, unless you're in a salt environment, like near the ocean.
It is common to jump to the conclusion that 12V at the battery is good to go, and thus head in the wrong direction suspecting things like relays, etc. I'm not saying it can't be a relay, or the ignition switch; but first one needs to verify that the battery is not the culprit.

 

[WhatIsChazaq]

Well...for some reason I wasn't getting emails from this forum. All of a sudden the emails came in. Looks like I have some great troubleshooting steps to try. Thanks all. Will post back in a few days when this thing is finally running.

 

[PoorMansCat]

Its funny y'all mention the Batt- to frame connection... Here recently, within the past 6 months, I have had to clean and repair that connection point on a Ford tractor, a zero turn Cub Cadet, a JD 790, and a Branson 3510.....
I have resorted to adding an additional ground cable to the starter case... problems haven't surfaced again...

 

[WhatIsChazaq]

Local Kioti dealer doesn't seem to be able to figure out which battery I need for this bugger (on the phone now).

What battery spec do I need for this bugger, sorry, forgot to look before I left the house today. I want to pick one up while I am in town today and see if she'll fire up tonight.

 

[pafoodplotter]

Load testing the battery is crucial to knowing what is going on. Basically verify the battery is good, under load, and then check everything else going forward toward the key switch.
Sometimes even the battery cables can fail due to corrosion under the plastic jacket, but that is less likely, unless you're in a salt environment, like near the ocean.
It is common to jump to the conclusion that 12V at the battery is good to go, and thus head in the wrong direction suspecting things like relays, etc. I'm not saying it can't be a relay, or the ignition switch; but first one needs to verify that the battery is not the culprit.

Thanks for the reply. I will load check and post the results. Will the load test be accurate even though the starter doesn't turn over?

During the past few months i had been having some trouble with the ground connection on the battery. When I did, I got the same intermittent dash lights and relay groans. Previously I would just clean the post and connections and the problem would go away. I have cleaned the battery posts, the connection to the frame, and checked the ohms between the neg. post and the ground wires/connection....all good. If it is the battery, could I just jump start from another 12-volt vehicle?

 

[pafoodplotter]

Well...for some reason I wasn't getting emails from this forum. All of a sudden the emails came in. Looks like I have some great troubleshooting steps to try. Thanks all. Will post back in a few days when this thing is finally running.

I saw your posts from so time ago and realized I may be having the same problem with my dK35.

 

[grsthegreat]

Yup.. i agree with some of the other posters. The battery needs to be checked under load. My old JD gave me the same issues. It tested 12.6 volts standing, but dropped to below 6v under the load test. we replaces it, all was well again

 

[pafoodplotter]

Okay.. volts just shy of 12.2 between the posts before and after turning the key.. I don't think the solenoid switched and the starter definitely did not turn. Should I be able to detecte a drawdown on the battery if nothing is turning?

So the ground wire to the frame and battery is good. There is 12.2v across the solenoid, and no drop in volts when i try to start it (but the starter motor doesn't bump either).

Next up, something I've been trying to avoid..taking the console apart. From what I've read, it seems that the ignition switch needs to be checked. Is it worth the effort in trying a new battery??

 

[k0ua]

Okay.. volts just shy of 12.2 between the posts before and after turning the key.. I don't think the solenoid switched and the starter definitely did not turn. Should I be able to detecte a drawdown on the battery if nothing is turning?

So the ground wire to the frame and battery is good. There is 12.2v across the solenoid, and no drop in volts when i try to start it (but the starter motor doesn't bump either).

Next up, something I've been trying to avoid..taking the console apart. From what I've read, it seems that the ignition switch needs to be checked. Is it worth the effort in trying a new battery??

If it doesnt drop. probably not a bad battery, sounds like a switch or connection problem. (mouse in the wires?) I would go to the switch first. after checking all fuses. and ground connections

James K0UA

 

[MossflowerWoods]

If it doesnt drop. probably not a bad battery, sounds like a switch or connection problem. (mouse in the wires?) I would go to the switch first. after checking all fuses. and ground connections

James K0UA

James is right. He said what I was gonna say.

My money is on a mouse chewed wire...

I use dryer sheets... That reminds me I need to change them...
David