Diy timber beams, it's slow.
- Thread starter Fixastuff
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plowhog
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If you finish it, I hope you get it installed or fastened to something quickly before it turns into a pretzel. 
Doughknob
Veteran Member
LOL! That is the way of such things. It is why people just buy factory made stuff. Homeowner or old-fashioned ways are soooooooo slow.
Cool project try though. It is something I might try myself. I'd keep at it if I got that far.
Cool project try though. It is something I might try myself. I'd keep at it if I got that far.
I just cut it to 16ft to get it out of the way and I'm going to try to make a 16fter out of it. Just cut another closer to the diameter I need, draw knifing the bark out of it and going to use it in the round. Would be easier it it wasn't 94 with 104 heat index...
MossRoad
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What saw? What chain? What guide? Details man!!! 
Seriously, I'd like to know if you don't mind. I have need for some beams, but cannot justify the cost of my own band saw mill.
Seriously, I'd like to know if you don't mind. I have need for some beams, but cannot justify the cost of my own band saw mill.
16" bar chainsaw, regular chain not a rip chain. I found the straightest 2x4x16ft I had. Then I debarked the area of the cut and screwed the 2x4 top of it(leveled the 2x4). I used the metal tooth claw thingie on the inside of the bar and bumped that up to the edge of the 2x4. Then I started a very shallow cut while eye balling the blade parallel to the 2x4. Once I had a good 3 inch deep groove cut I removed the 2x4 then just kept working the bar in deeper from a shallow angle to steeper as I went. I was really surprised how easy it was to keep the cut "plump". I tried doing like this from seeing some people's u tube videos where they just popped lines on top and relied on feel/experience to stay even. Their boards looked as good as many people with Alaskan mills so I gave it a go. I was surprised how good and square it was going but my back/hands were hurting from the slowness.What saw? What chain? What guide? Details man!!!
Seriously, I'd like to know if you don't mind. I have need for some beams, but cannot justify the cost of my own band saw mill.
In 1966 we built our home from the Forrest. Our neighbor sawed 2x4s, 2x6s and boards but would not cut the floor and ceiling beams because they needed to be 16'. Father used an adz and 2-sided 36 16' trees. It was all free hand from what I can remember.
Gordon Gould
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What saw? What chain? What guide? Details man!!!
Seriously, I'd like to know if you don't mind. I have need for some beams, but cannot justify the cost of my own band saw mill.
Have you seen A 'Timber Tuff Saw Guide' ? $25 +/- There are other names too. I thought this was a very good video of of a guy using one.
gg
Skeans1
Platinum Member
What saw? What chain? What guide? Details man!!!
Seriously, I'd like to know if you don't mind. I have need for some beams, but cannot justify the cost of my own band saw mill.
The saw was a 3120, bar is a 42” 3/8 .063 cannon super belly, chain was an archer ripping chain, length of the cut was just shy of 25’ for making low boy decking boards. For milling the smallest saw I’ll use is my 395, the 3120 works ok, the big echo should do a lot better with the long bars like the 60’s and 72’s.
