Differential lock/4x4

[Anonymous Poster]

First, I'd like to thank everyone for their posts. I've learned so much, and had some new questions raised I didn't think about before. From everything I've read I'm leaning towards the BX2200, although I can't find a dealer close that has one for me to test. My real question though is this:
If I understand it right the rear diff lock would have both back wheels spinning, like posi trac on a car, right? The four wheel would lock the front in. When the front is locked in do both sides on the front grab or only one side like most 4x4 trucks. When mowing on an incline(which I have) what is the noticable difference between diff lock and 4x4? I have 3 acres, 1 1/2 of which I'd like to cut. I've been having the hill brush hogged, but think I can finish cut it with the right equipment. I also cut my mothers which is about 10 minutes ride away (on my little Cub), so I need something to get around her yard which has lots of trees and buildings, etc. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Charliebrn]

The differential lock is used when you have one rear spinning, just as you thought. Don't run it all the time though, as it'll cause binding in turns, etc. The 4WD locks in the front, but only one of the fronts will turn. Again, I wouldn't run this all the time, especially on paved roads. Ive never yet had a situation where all three driving wheels have spun on me instead of moving my tractor, and I have some serious inclines in my ditch that I finish mow with my BX.

You'll find that the BX is amazingly stable in hills that will cause MAJOR pucker factor with other tractors due to its low center of gravity. From your description of your needs, it sounds as if the BX is just the ticket...

Scott

 

[Bird]

There is a major difference in posi trac in an auto and the differential lock on the tractor. On a car, it allows one wheel to slip a bit then "automatically" transfers power to the other rear wheel. On the tractor, you "manually or mechanically?" engage the differential lock (step on a pedal) only when you need it, and it firmly locks the differential so that both rear wheels must turn together at the same speed, so you don't want to use it unless you intend to go straight forward or backward with no turns. You release the pedal before turning. And when you engage the 4WD, the transmission directs power to both front and rear axles, so it is possible to have one rear wheel and one front wheel turning and not go anywhere, step on the differential lock and you'll have both rear wheels and either one or both front wheels turning depending on the traction the front wheels have at the time. There is no way to lock the front differential and guarantee both front wheels will turn on the smaller model tractors.

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I appreciate the quick responses. Let me see if I understand this. If I were looking at the larger Cub and JD riding mowers with diff-lock, I can't leave that on all of the time and cut my slope? It's more designed if you get in a spot and can't get tractiojn, to lock in for temp use? On the 4x4, I can leave that on the whole time I'm cutting the slope, even the turns, as long as I don't also have the diff-lock on too?

 

[Bird]

Now I'm not sure about all the "riding mowers", but you understand it right for the BX series and other compact tractors. As long as you're not on a hard surface (pavement), you can leave it in 4WD if you like; no problem at all unless you have some scuffing on turns and don't like what that does to the lawn.

Bird

 

[Jeff396]

I was told that the 4X4 is great in the dirt or while going in a straight line but doing a lot of turning can be pretty hard on the grass. I used mine on the really large slopes(30 degrees) which were too steep to mow sideways. I just drove up then backed down and turned slightly at the bottom to line up for the next run. Not a bit of slippage. The only time the diff lock was necessary was while using the fel.

Jeff

2001 B7500HSD, La302 fel, 60"mmm, grass catcher

 

[Bird]

Sounds like the same way I do it, Jeff.

Bird

 

[GlueGuy]

I used mine on the really large slopes(30 degrees) which were too steep to mow sideways. I just drove up then backed down and turned slightly at the bottom to line up for the next run

I do it that way except the other way around. I drive down, and back up

The manual recommends this, as otherwise you may do a "wheelie". And I really hate it when that happens /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

The GlueGuy

 

[Jeff396]

I would worry about that except I have the FEL. It didn't feel squirelly to me at all. I also for some odd reason feel better going up.

Jeff

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I don't think you need to equate not being able to lock all four wheels together with not having enough traction. When you are in four wheel drive it is true that you are really only technically in two wheel drive (front one wheel/rear one wheel) but it will be _extremely_ rare that you experience any single wheel slippage at all. The vast majority of the time all the tires will be experiencing the same traction and none of them will slip, or they will more or less all be slipping at once. The exception to this is mud, and the diff lock has saved me big time more than once on my lowly two wheel drive Kubota. I think you may actually find that you are in two wheel drive the vast majority of the time because it is easier on the grass, only switching into four wheel drive when you tackle the slope or after you start slipping the rears. The lack of a front diff lock would not even be a consideration for me unless I was in the mud _all the time_.

 

[TresCrows]

The Differential lock is not an ON-OFF switch/lever---it is a pedal you step on when you wish it to engage it. When you lift your foot from the pedal it disengages--until--you once again decide you want it engaged and step down on the pedal. On the BX the differential Locking pedal is on the left hand floor board.
EXCUSE ME!--the BX is not a "riding mower"--it is in fact a small (very small) utility tractor. If you do not believe me bring your 25 horsepower Craftsman tractor styled "riding mower" over and I will show you the difference! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif. J, BX high priest

 

[Anonymous Poster]

If you remove the front loader you will find that navigating the up and down slopes is considerably easier. My lawn has a bit of a slope on one side and I found that with the loader on the tractor wants to free wheel down the slope, I have HST, but when I remove the loader I can cut down the slope with more speed control.

 

[Jeff396]

I will give that a try. I have to admit I havn't taken my fel off the tractor yet and was actually hoping to avoid it. Is coupling and uncoupleing the hydraulic lines as easy as they say?

Jeff

 

[Bird]

Jeff, when you get ready to uncouple the hydraulic lines, kill the tractor engine, then move the joystick around in all directions and you will have released the pressure in the lines, then just pull the little collar on the female coupler back and unplug them; nothing to it. To put them back on, you have to pull that collar back to start them on, push them on, release the collar and continue pushing until the collar snaps forward. You can do it a lot quicker than you can tell someone about it./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Bird

 

[MikePA]

Assuming you have them, you'll also want to put the little plastic covers on the exposed couplers.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

one minor addition. Make sure the hose/connector are color coded.

It really is amazing how easy the loader goes off and on.

 

[PaulT]

<font color=blue>it will be _extremely_ rare that you experience any single wheel slippage at all</font color=blue>

One big exception to this is on irregular terrain. I was recently filling ditches with crushed rock using my FEL around my current project site (which consisted of some ditches and the piles of dirt from digging them). Going very slowly, so as not to tip over, I crawled over bumps and gullies and maneuvered in order to dump squarely in the ditches. There were several times in 4wd low range that a single wheel began to spin, and I couldn't move until I locked the diff. If you are only on even, flat, sloped terrain (as in mowing), you are probably right about not having ONLY one tire spinning.

PaulT

 

[Jeff396]

Yeah, I've got these really nice looking colored bands around each hose. Thing that I wonder about is that they seem to be at the wrong end of the hose. The hoses then go through that fabric thing and it's hard to trace which is which. The dealer or someone did put some splops of paint at the end where it uncouples. I wonder if the hoses can be put on backwards or swapped end for end.

Jeff

 

[ronjhall]

Jeff
I got 2 hoses swapped ounce while putting FEL back on./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif Nothing on FEL would work./w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif After I straitened out hoses. FEL would not work correctly until I had cycled FEL up down, rollback and dump a couple of times. There was no damage, but sure did act like it for a few minutes./w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif

 

[TresCrows]

Jeff removing the FEL is a no brainer. Heck tie wrap with plastic ties some numbered tags or something. It is a little intimidating the first time but it really is very easy. Give it a try. Try to keep the end caps or covers over the disconnected couplings. Be sure to release pressure like Bird said by moving the joy stick. You will find mowing and many other chores so much easier without that FEL. Hey, saw your bio so this attachment is for you--taken outside my future XXXXXX Antique Aircraft and Lawnmower Repair center--since 1916 (when I retire). No one else look cuz it is not about tractors. J