Traction Deere 4710 MFWD not engaging

[hartmacw]

I have a 2003 4710 e-Hydro with a 460 loader and 330 hours on it. I bought it at an auction this summer and so far have just used it for light bush hogging and haying on level pasture. I have not tried to (or needed to) engage the MFWD for a while. Soon after I bought it I hit the MFWD button and the light came on but I was on dry level ground and wasn't really under a load so I really never thought about it and since I didn't need it, I turned it back off.

Until yesterday. I was pushing some heavy snow with a blade on the front loader. I hit the MFWD switch before I started. I pushed off one pass, and went to back up in the snow and my rears started slipping, but the fronts were doing nothing. The light on the MFWD switch was on and there was no error codes blinking. Then just for grins today, I chained myself to a small tree I've been wanting to pull. I tighted up the chain, until the rears started digging, and the fronts again were doing nothing.

Looks like a problem, huh. I have been doing some reading and searching and most advice seems to suggest checking the electrical connectors and fuses. I have not checked these yet and I can't do that until tomorrow. Has anyone else had this issue, and if it's not the connectors or fuses, is it likely a dealer service call?

OH also, the red petcock for water/sediment drain on the right side behind the Forward/Reverse pedals I found has a slow drip and I can't seem to get it to stop. There is a hose clamp that is very difficult to get to and I suspected that it might be a little loose, so I finally found a little 8MM wrench and gave it a couple of tightening turns. I stopped because I was afraid of over tightening. I still seem to have a very slow drip. Any hints on that too? Thanks.

 

[JD5210]

Sorry can not answer your question, but if you did not get an operators manual with it. Here is a link to one:

OMLVU13194_H2

Also check out selectmanauls.com for a tech manual.

 

[mfreund]

The MFWD is set up that if it looses power to the soleniod, it will leave the MFWD engaged. Is it possible to jack up the tractor and get some help to see if the front drive shaft is turning? That would help narrow down where to look next. I do not think it is a power to the circuit(ie, fuses or wires).

As for the slow drip, I think you would have to replace the petcock.

 

[hartmacw]

The MFWD is set up that if it looses power to the soleniod, it will leave the MFWD engaged. Is it possible to jack up the tractor and get some help to see if the front drive shaft is turning? That would help narrow down where to look next. I do not think it is a power to the circuit(ie, fuses or wires).

Thanks for your response. I'm assuming you mean I'd have to get the front just off the ground with the loader, and then jack both sides of the rear so that someone else could see if FEW/REV causes the front shaft to turn while I'm in the seat, correct?

 

[mfreund]

Yes, to diagnose if the problem is in the tractor end or front end. I am thinking there is a reason that it was on the auction.

 

[hartmacw]

Yes, to diagnose if the problem is in the tractor end or front end. I am thinking there is a reason that it was on the auction.

OK, well I couldn't round up any help today - but, I got under the tractor and loosened the sleeves covering the drive shaft to the front end. I took a sharpie and drew a vertical line on the shaft as straight as I could on the bottom right where it went into the front end. Then I ran the tractor forward and reverse and parked it. Sure enough, the mark wasn't in the same place - actually it was on top and I couldn't even see it. So I know for sure the drive shaft is turning. Problem must be something in the front then?

As far as the auction, I don't think the problem was known. It came from a private estate sale and was owned by a person who passed away suddenly and I know a member of the family. I also know a local dealer was trying to buy it from them before the auction. I guess all I really know for sure is that it wasn't up for sale because someone knew it had a problem, the entire estate was sold in a huge 2-day auction.

One other thing, I checked the oil level in the front end. The oil is practically clear and I simply can't see it on that darn yellow dipstick. I'm thinking of making my own dipstick. Could it be something as simple as low on oil? I'm assuming if that were the case I'd probably hear some grinding or other noise in the front.

 

[wmonroe]

Since there aren't manual hubs on the front end (like on a pickup) then the front driveshaft will turn when the front tires turn. How is the 4x4 engaged? Electric motor driving the shift fork?

 

[MikePA]

One other thing, I checked the oil level in the front end. The oil is practically clear and I simply can't see it on that darn yellow dipstick. I'm thinking of making my own dipstick. Could it be something as simple as low on oil? I'm assuming if that were the case I'd probably hear some grinding or other noise in the front.

A 'trick' that works for me is to place the end of the dipstick on the end of your index finger, slide the dipstick towards the end of your finger, but do not remove it from your finger. The oil will leave a film on your finger which you compare to the scale on the dipstick.

Easier to do than describe.

I am with wmonroe - I bet this is an engagement issue, not a problem with the front end or 4x4 gearing

 

[mfreund]

I am thinking you have a bad ground at the MFWD soleniod or the switch is not working. I do not have a 4710 wiring diagram. On my 4310 manual it is a 555 white wire from the switch to soleniod. Check to make sure you have 12v on red 562j and ground on 010ak black at the switch. There will be 12v on the 555 white with the switch in the engaged position. The check for 12v on 555 white and ground on 010ag black at the soleniod. Again these are the wire numbers and colors for a 4310. Yours may be different colors or numbers but operate the same.

 

[hartmacw]

Since there aren't manual hubs on the front end (like on a pickup) then the front driveshaft will turn when the front tires turn. How is the 4x4 engaged? Electric motor driving the shift fork?

Well I have the technical manual and it's 800 pages long (and not printed) so I am still looking. But basically what happens is that a switch on the right fender console is supposed to activate a solenoid. From the TM, the "theory or operation" is:

The MFWD function is spring loaded to the engaged position. When the MFWD switch is in the unlock position current is supplied to the MFWD solenoid which in turn unlocks the MFWD pin in the transmission. With the key in start or run position, battery voltage is provided to the MFWD switch through the S1 key switch, 072B and 072C Red wires, F5 fuse and 562A, 562D, 562F, 562G, and 562H Red wires to the MFWD switch (terminal 2).

When the MFWD switch is in the unlock position, current flows across the MFWD switch (terminals 2 and 1) to the 555 Wht wire and the Y3 MFWD solenoid. The MFWD solenoid is then energized and pulls the MFWD lock pin into the unlocked position and the machine will operate in rear wheel drive.

One of my theories is that I might just have a stuck solenoid in the off/unlock position. The TM has test procedures for that and the switch - but man it's cold out today.....

 

[mfreund]

If you had a bad soleniod, the MFWD would be engaged. When the circuit looses power to it the MFWD soleniod defaults to engaged MFWD.

If you have a tech manual, you have the test.procedure. follow it with a volt meter.

 

[mfreund]

Have you got this problem solved?

 

[hartmacw]

I thought I'd go ahead and provide an update to this issue just in case someone has the same problem down the road. I just got it fixed today. The problem was, in fact, a stuck solenoid. I checked all the electrical connections following the procedure in the manual and everything checked out there. So I decided to bite the bullet and call my closest dealer.

Sure enough, while he said that my case is unusual, a solenoid can be stuck in either direction, power flowing to it or not. Therefore, it's not necessarily true that a bad solenoid will default the tractor to 4WD. In most cases, that would be true, not here. Mine was stuck almost fully extended whether the switch was on or off, which did not let the hydraulics engage the pin to lock into 4WD. Had it been stuck in the other direction, I would not have been able to disengage it which is the most common issue I found when searching for my problem.

So, problem solved. Hope the price of my service call helps out someone one day. Now bring on the snow... or not.

...BillH

 

[wmonroe]

Glad to hear you got it fixed up. Like you said, hopefully this will help someone else out in the future.

 

[mfreund]

Glad you got it fixed. I have nevery heard of that, something to look for.

 

[toyboyttoo]

I have a 4710 and had the same issue. Called the dealer for a service call and my problem was the small piston underneath the tractor was not moving when the MFWD switch was pressed. I guess that mud and crap encased it as I wasn't using MFWD very often. I now make sure to lubricate this piston at least twice a year. No problems since.