Cut wandering.

[Gary Fowler]

Worn sprocket is caused by using a chain with the wrong pitch. Also, a worn out old chain can stretch enough that its pitch gets off. This is more of an issue with the frugal types who keep sharpening their chains forever and ever.

I dont think in this instance it was a worn out chain since it was almost new. I found it when I had to reset the chain after it jumped off because I didnt notice it being loose and tighten it but perhaps this could happen on a very old chain.

 

[turnkey4099]

Worn sprocket is caused by using a chain with the wrong pitch. Also, a worn out old chain can stretch enough that its pitch gets off. This is more of an issue with the frugal types who keep sharpening their chains forever and ever.

Wearing on the sprocket is a normal part of chainsaw operation - that is why they are made for easy replacement. Very few (me included) change them often enough. I hae seen recommendations as low as "every two new chains" - that to me is excessive.

Now RAPID wear is another thing.

Harry K

Harry K

 

[Lou66]

I guess I am a little different on small equipment like chainsaws,, I buy a new one ever year,, they have them on sale around feb/mar time frame,, I will buy one,, set it up till the fall, cut up a couple two or three cords of live oak,, sell one or two,, keep one for us,, then sell the old chain saw in a garage sell one of my friends are having,, give them a cut,, I have found over the years that all of them are good chainsaw, Hitachi, Husqvarna, Craftsman, Earthquake, Poulan , Makita and few more,, a 14 to 18 inch is between 100 and 200 dollars,, sharpen the blade a couple times over the season and sell it.. My friend makes a few bucks, someone get a fair chainsaw at a cheap price,, and I get free wood all winter,, I don't count my labor because if I wasn't cutting wood I would be on the computer playing,, I don't get paid to play.. so it equals out.. ..I too have had one or two,, pull to the right or left over the years but never gave it a lot of thought,, I just figured I got it too hot and bent the blade.. Lou

 

[CHDinCT]

Well, looks like I've got the same issue on my brand new Husky 555 AT. Was cutting some good size oak yesterday and right away I see the cut zigging a little to the right - never had this issue before. Also, the chain just didn't seem real sharp for a new one.

A little background. Bought the saw in August to cut some good size red oak that was free for the taking. Made about 6-10 cuts when I sensed the saw was not oiling. Chain looked a little burnt and just didn't feel right so back to the dealer for oil pump replacement under warranty. Finished the work with my older MS270 so I never ended up using the saw again until yesterday. When I got the saw back from the dealer, I recalled they said they sharpened the blade for me sort of gratis. Now I'm wondering if they miss-sharpened it or it got too hot and warped some from not oiling, or even worse, the bar is toasted somehow.

Gonna start simple and put a new, out of the box chain on it and see how it cuts. Hopefully that's all it needs and I can either junk the old chain or get it sharpened where I usually take my chains (and where I'm happy with the chain when I get it back). I'll take a good look at the bar and chain to see if there's any obvious defects while I'm at it, but not really sure what to look for. Have to say, I've not had good luck with my first Husky so far, but I did like how powerful it was the little I've used it so far. Think I will be happy with it once it's all straightened out.

Here's a few (crappy) cell phone pic's of what I was cutting. Really can't see the crooked cuts from these pic's.

 

[Lou66]

that is some good looking wood, Chris, that's what I use in my bbq pit,, good clean red oaks or live oak,, can I have some.. lol..Lou

 

[CHDinCT]

that is some good looking wood, Chris, that's what I use in my bbq pit,, good clean red oaks or live oak,, can I have some.. lol..Lou

Sorry, but it's mine, mine, mine, all mine! Haha. Started heating with wood almost exclusively last year so this is all for two winters out. Trying to get a full 3 years ahead so it's nice and dry come burn time.

 

[Lou66]

That is some good wood and it will last several years if stacked up off the ground or stored inside,, but you know that,, so now can I have some I will get it a nice home.. lol.. Lou

 

[Gary Fowler]

I just cant say enough about the electric chain saw sharpener I got from HF. Although very cheap, it did a good job of sharpening my two spare chains. They had gotten so dull, even with me trying to file them with help from guide bars and other "tools" that supposed to make you an expert that they would nearly cut in a circle and just put out dust rather than chips. It took about 30 minutes to set up the sharpener including the time to locate a big steel and plywood frame to mount it on and then in not more than 15 minutes per chain (they were already off the saw) I was thru. Even though this was my first time using the sharpener, I exchanged the new chain on my Husky with the freshly sharpened one and cut some pretty large limbs from fence line with it. They came of like butter. Later I wanted to get an anvil block from a butt of a large pine that had died and we cut it down. I had tried to cut it with the old dull chain and it just cut a scallop out of it. Went back with the HF sharpened chain and cut a good square cut on the tree, loaded it in the FEL and brought it back to the shop, mounted my anvil on it and it is almost perfectly level. Well worth the $25 price which equals one new chain in price. With 3 chains for the Husky and the sharpener, I doubt I will ever have to buy another chain.

 

[CHDinCT]

I just cant say enough about the electric chain saw sharpener I got from HF. Although very cheap, it did a good job of sharpening my two spare chains. They had gotten so dull, even with me trying to file them with help from guide bars and other "tools" that supposed to make you an expert that they would nearly cut in a circle and just put out dust rather than chips. It took about 30 minutes to set up the sharpener including the time to locate a big steel and plywood frame to mount it on and then in not more than 15 minutes per chain (they were already off the saw) I was thru. Even though this was my first time using the sharpener, I exchanged the new chain on my Husky with the freshly sharpened one and cut some pretty large limbs from fence line with it. They came of like butter. Later I wanted to get an anvil block from a butt of a large pine that had died and we cut it down. I had tried to cut it with the old dull chain and it just cut a scallop out of it. Went back with the HF sharpened chain and cut a good square cut on the tree, loaded it in the FEL and brought it back to the shop, mounted my anvil on it and it is almost perfectly level. Well worth the $25 price which equals one new chain in price. With 3 chains for the Husky and the sharpener, I doubt I will ever have to buy another chain.

You're post got me thinking, maybe I'll pick up one of these HF chain sharpeners and give it a try. I have two chains that need sharpening which cost me $9 a piece at the power equipment shop to sharpen. Right now, the HF sharpener is on sale for $39.99 (not sure how you got it for $25 even with a 20% off coupon), so I'd recoup almost half the cost right away. What makes me nervous is the terrible instructions that come with HF tools. With most tools, usage and setup is straightforward so instructions aren't an issue, but getting this thing set up right will require some instructions. Probably can find better help on-line here or elsewhere anyway.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Two weeks ago it was on sale for $24.99 + 6.99 shipping. No coupon required at that time. I get regular emails on sale items so I read them and occassionally I find a good deal on something I can actually use.

 

[CHDinCT]

Two weeks ago it was on sale for $24.99 + 6.99 shipping. No coupon required at that time. I get regular emails on sale items so I read them and occassionally I find a good deal on something I can actually use.

So do I, but I wasn't shopping for a chain sharpener then so I guess it didn't register. Thanks

 

[Deere Dude]

Depending on someones budget, I would not get a HF brand cheapy sharpener. I used on and still have it and have used it to possibly sharpen 30 chains and it worked sorta okay, but I wasn't real happy with it.

One day some Timber Tuff sharpeners were on sale for $100 and sprung for one of them. There is a huge difference in sharpening between the two. They have a lot more power, the whole thing is metal and the motor and parts have a lot less sloppiness in them. I know it is just a sharpener and if you sharpen 1 chain a year it may be alright but it sure is nicer with a more heavy duty sharpened with some power behind it.

 

[Bluegill2]

Learn to sharpen saw chain with a file! It is a very good skill to have!

There is no blade on a chainsaw. Just sayin...

 

[cqaigy2]

Learn to sharpen saw chain with a file! It is a very good skill to have!

There is no blade on a chainsaw. Just sayin...

And as someone said to me, you don't sharpen the chain.
And i agree, with the file comment as well.

 

[retiredmgn]

I don't get it. I've never owned a 'chain shapener'. Pehaps it's a handy thing to have. I have a pair of gloves and two files. I run 2 or 3 strokes with the file every tank of gas. The angle to maintain on all modern chains is milled into the chain as a refference mark. If you're putting out sawdust you take two or three strokes on the rakers. If this doesn't work for you either your files are dull or you need to educate because you are doing something incorrectly. Ain't rocket science. In the field you should be able to recover dull and keep moving.

 

[Gary Fowler]

A file MIGHT be good way to sharpen in the field, but for me, while you are sharpening with a $8 file, I will just change out the chain and be back cutting wood. Back in the shop, I can sharpen a super dull chain that has hit wire, rocks etc in the same time it takes you to "hit it a lick or two per tooth" to bring back the edge. I have a tool box drawer full of files of different diameters, gauges, etc and none of them are as easy as using the electric chain sharpener and it guarantees the same angle on every tooth. I am not using it everyday in a chainsaw sharpening business so why should I spend 5 times as much to get the "more powerful" one when all it needs is a light touch to work anyway. I dont find that there is "slop" in the plastic frame either on the HF unit, at least now when new and for my needs it works fine. If it gets wear in it, I can buy 5 of them for $100 and for darned sure I am not going to wear out one much less 5 as I dont cut wood for a living either.

 

[jymbee]

A file MIGHT be good way to sharpen in the field, but for me, while you are sharpening with a $8 file, I will just change out the chain and be back cutting wood. Back in the shop, I can sharpen a super dull chain that has hit wire, rocks etc in the same time it takes you to "hit it a lick or two per tooth" to bring back the edge.

My thought exactly. Cut wood while the sun shines-- sharpen chains when it rains. :thumbsup:

 

[CHDinCT]

Learn to sharpen saw chain with a file! It is a very good skill to have!

There is no blade on a chainsaw. Just sayin...

Not sure who your post is in reply to, but I touch up my chains manually with a file every few tank-fulls, but get them professionally sharpened to take care of the larger nicks from dirt, rocks, wire, etc.

Also, just to post back that a new chain fixed the cut wandering so I think the old chain was miss-sharpened or it's FUBARed from running it without oil.

And, the HF sharpener just went on sale for $29.99 so I think I'll at least check it out next time I get to a store.

 

[Redbug]

I also touch up my chains every couple tankfuls.

Whenever a kerf wanders to one side while cutting...usually means that the teeth on one side are cutting more wood, (teeth are longer on one side than the other side causing the saw to cut at an angle). That means you need to take your file to the teeth on the side the kerf, (saw bar), is turning towards and file only the teeth on that side. In other words...the teeth on both sides of the bar need to be equal in length when you are done filing.

An electric grinder is hard on chainsaw teeth. You will heat the teeth up and discolor them, changing the hardness or temper. A grinder also tends to take off too much metal and reduces the life of a chain. Just my observations.

 

[LD1]

I also touch up my chains every couple tankfuls.

Whenever a kerf wanders to one side while cutting...usually means that the teeth on one side are cutting more wood, (teeth are longer on one side than the other side causing the saw to cut at an angle). That means you need to take your file to the teeth on the side the kerf, (saw bar), is turning towards and file only the teeth on that side. In other words...the teeth on both sides of the bar need to be equal in length when you are done filing.

An electric grinder is hard on chainsaw teeth. You will heat the teeth up and discolor them, changing the hardness or temper. A grinder also tends to take off too much metal and reduces the life of a chain. Just my observations.

In theory, yes the teeth are supposed to be the same lenght. But it certainly isnt a requirement to cut straight. You can simply adjust the rakers (depth gauges) accordingly.

If I hit a nail, or rock, or something that dulls just one side of the chain, and requires a good bit of meat to be removed to sharpen, I do NOT take that much off the other side as well. I just adjust the rakers accordingly to make both sides take the same amount of wood.

That is partly why I like shapening my own chain. Cause the way it is "supposed" to be done, is to find the worst (smallest) tooth, and make them ALL that small. And IMO, that is a waste of chain life