Current pricing L2501 and transmission choice

[Forky]

The holes are in the fender with tape across them. Simply buy the handle with the hardware from Kubota and add it on. Not having it on the tractor saves folks that don't need it or want it (like me) $50.00.

 

[2manyrocks]

I may have bought the pre-fabricated fuel and oil filter guard in a moment of weakness, but I will fabricate a handle.

 

[2manyrocks]

We had a gully washing rainfall this week that washed out the driveway pretty badly with much of the gravel ending up at the bottom of the hill. This was my first use of the Kubota on this driveway. In low range 4wd, I was able to move a full 5' landscape box full of gravel back up the hill without any slipping. I've never been able to do that with my other 2wd tractors. I'd also rate the L2501 as being more nimble.

Back to the modifications....

One of the first things I did was to substitute a HF ammo can for the plastic Kubota toolbox, but I wasn't happy with the stability of the cross member holding the can, especially when loaded with a logging chain. I've also been concerned that the Kubota tail lights stick out enough at the rear that it wouldn't take much for them to get damaged. And I wanted a handle to grab when getting onto the tractor.

I had some 1" square tubing that happened to fit between the ROPS and the fender. Ended up making a new cross member assembly to hold the ammo can and added a grab handle. I also extended the tubing to make a protective cover for the tail lights and to hold the slow moving object sign.

 

[jyoutz]

We had a gully washing rainfall this week that washed out the driveway pretty badly with much of the gravel ending up at the bottom of the hill. This was my first use of the Kubota on this driveway. In low range 4wd, I was able to move a full 5' landscape box full of gravel back up the hill without any slipping. I've never been able to do that with my other 2wd tractors. I'd also rate the L2501 as being more nimble.

Back to the modifications....

One of the first things I did was to substitute a HF ammo can for the plastic Kubota toolbox, but I wasn't happy with the stability of the cross member holding the can, especially when loaded with a logging chain. I've also been concerned that the Kubota tail lights stick out enough at the rear that it wouldn't take much for them to get damaged. And I wanted a handle to grab when getting onto the tractor.

I had some 1" square tubing that happened to fit between the ROPS and the fender. Ended up making a new cross member assembly to hold the ammo can and added a grab handle. I also extended the tubing to make a protective cover for the tail lights and to hold the slow moving object sign.

Nice work

 

[2manyrocks]

Thank you.

 

[hornett22]

If you don't mind the treadle pedal and lack of live pto, I'd go with the 2501 hst. If you want gear, I'd go with a manufacturer that offers a shuttle shift, such as Mahindra or Kioti. You also get a better lift capacity and live pto.

JD 3025 has an aluminum rear end housing and plastic hood and fenders. That would be a no go for me.

 

[Coboco]

The location of the brake pedals relative to the HST treadle seems awkward to me, but I haven't had to use the brakes much at all except to engage the parking brake when already stopped. International Cub Cadet hydros had the F-R hydro control mounted to the dash. I tend to think that is a better placement for that control.

Another thing I don't like is they didn't put a hand rail on the loader control side fender making it awkward to get on the tractor. For the amount of money they are charging for these tractors, both fenders should have hand rails.

The brake pedals are relatively awkward with HST pedal...but I do like having the clutch so it's complex to fit it all, even though I think designers could have done better.

But, I have been wondering about the cruise control option for standard L (maybe this was already mentioned in the last 8 pages? I didnt read thru it all.) If you essentially had a throttle at that lever w/ your left hand, then you'd be free to operate the steer brakes. Personally I don't really have the need, the short wheelbase 4x4 tractor is very nimble and capable as is. 4x4 low and locker engaged if really slippery or rough terrain that causes it to diff out from articulation.

I hear a lot of people talking about front wheel width, and how narrow vs wide makes no difference. It usually boils down to the "stops" and that it's too late anyways if you've maxed out the tractor front axle flex and it's going over. I dunno, I have been on rough inclines and 3 wheel action that stuffs front axle to the stops and need to heel the rear locker to move otherwise one front wheel and one rear wheel just spin. No flipping, and if the front was wider it would definitely be assisting me stability wise somehow in those conditions, I'd think?

 

[crashz]

hornet - the HST L2501 has a live PTO. Only the gear drive has the continuous with over-running clutch PTO.

 

[rScotty]

hornet - the HST L2501 has a live PTO. Only the gear drive has the continuous with over-running clutch PTO.

I'm ton sure what kind of PTO that is? Maybe it is just terminology.

I always get confused on PTO terminology. To me, a transmisson-driven PTO is the most basic type. It has a control to engage it or not, but the PTO doesn't turn unless the tractor is moving. You hardly ever see that today, but it used to be common. You push in the clutch and the tractor stops moving and the PTO stops turning. Most of these will power the PTO when the tractor is stopped and the shifter is in neutral.... but early ones would not.

Next comes the continuous running PTO. It has a control to engage it or not and once engaged it continues to run as long as it is engaged and the engine is running - even when the tractor is stopped. It doesn't have a clutch. It just has a control to either engage or disengage the PTO. If stopped and in neutral the PTO will continue to turn.
Engaging the PTO can be pretty abrupt.

Then a live PTO has control over PTO engagment as well as some manner of manually clutching the PTO. Not so abrupt about taking up the load because ithas some sort of manually controlled clutch that works when stopped or when you are moving. With gear drive tractors that is often a two stage clutch. How does that work with a HST?

Then finally there is what I call an independent PTO. It has both on/off control over PTO engagement and also has a separate manual PTOclutch. That's the best.

Regardless of type of PTO, they should all have an over-running clutch. An over-running clutch is completely different than a manual clutch and it's job is to protect the PTO drive gears in the tractor in case something stops the PTO suddenly. An over-running clutch is basically an automatic slip clutch in the PTO drive line. Generally you can adjust the torque you want it to slip at. An over-running clutch can be in the tractor transmission or in the external PTO shaft. Ideally, a tractor could have one in the tractor PTO transmission AND one on the PTO shaft.

The final level of protection is a shear pin or shear bolt in the external PTO shaft. All PTO shafts shoud have that.

rScotty

 

[crashz]

rScotty - that's cause I screwed it up!

It is described on the Kubota spec sheet as "Transmission drive with over-running clutch". I misread that with the next column for the HST that said "Live-continuous running". My crazy brain mixed the two.