Cub LT1045 Cranks but Won't Start

[buzz999999]

i ordered a key from the manufacturer and will replace when i get it. my research said that the key was only there for alignment and that the torque on the flywheel bolt was really what holds it in place. That why i figured a lighter metal wouldnt hurt. i bought a torque wrench and was careful to install it a 68 n-m.....is that right or do i need to change again when i get factory key. Also there was a question of air getting in system. I removed the fuel solenoid but after a bench test I re-installed it..could the air be coming in there.

 

[buzz999999]

Just FYI i read elsewhere there was a recall because the flywheel bolt had not been torqued...indeed I spun it off with my fingers.

 

[rcbe]

i ordered a key from the manufacturer and will replace when i get it. my research said that the key was only there for alignment and that the torque on the flywheel bolt was really what holds it in place. That why i figured a lighter metal wouldnt hurt. i bought a torque wrench and was careful to install it a 68 n-m.....is that right or do i need to change again when i get factory key. Also there was a question of air getting in system. I removed the fuel solenoid but after a bench test I re-installed it..could the air be coming in there.

good. the correct key has the proper properties to only shear when appropriate to protect vital engine parts. Also getting the correct kohler engine service manual will give you the right torque value for the flywheel bolt which is critical. Fuel solenoid - if you are talking about the afterfire solenoid that is located at the bottom of the carb, as long as raw fuel does not leak out around threads,you should be ok. Use the rattlecan spray carb cleaner to check for air leaks where the carb assy joins up with the engine, etc. - while the engine is running. if the engine rpm changes momentarily just after the spray is applied externally, then there is a air leak and need to be repaired - usually by installing a new gasket at that particular connection.
take your time, work clean, take plenty of before/after pix when working around carb - easy to get lost on re-hooking up stuff.

 

[me4gh4n]

im having the same issue it ran for a good while then i refueled and it ran for about 5 mins and sputtered and stopped running it cranks but wont start everything is working properly but still wont start it has enough oil fuel etc not getting why i have gas in the carb but wont start

 

[The kid]

im having the same issue it ran for a good while then i refueled and it ran for about 5 mins and sputtered and stopped running it cranks but wont start everything is working properly but still wont start it has enough oil fuel etc not getting why i have gas in the carb but wont start

This is quite an old thread but good info. Do as the above mentioned and download the service manual and replace the flywheel crankshaft key. I found an exact replacement for mine at TSC for a few dollars. Take pictures of your engine as you start removing screws and such to help when reassembling. You can either purchase a Kohler flywheel puller. Do a google search on removing the flywheel. There are other methods where one can use only a hammer to get it loose, but carefully. The danger of using the hammer method is damaging the fins or jarring a magnet loose that are glue mounted under the flywheel which effects the charging circuit. I also bought a flywheel puller at TSC. Good luck. -kid