Cub 2135 will not start

[seturner]

Hello,

I have decided not to buy a used 2186 and instead repair my 2135. I have had it since '95 and now it won't start. When I turn key, I hear a "thunk", but nothing happens. Before, I could turn the key 5-6 times and eventually the engine would turn over. Does anyone have an idea?

Also, the after mowing a while, the PTO gets harder and harder to engage.
I can hear it pull in, but the belt pulley does not turn, unless I slow engine way down. When I first begin cutting, the PTO engages instantly.

Thanks,
Scott

 

[JTKub]

Is the battery fully charged? If the battery is good, is power being sent to the starter when you cycle the ignition? If no, there could be a safety switch not being met or a bad starter. Scorched, or broken wires/connectors is a common occurance on a well used machine. That could be the case for the electric PTO as well. Check the wiring to the PTO.

Joel

 

[seturner]

Is the battery fully charged? If the battery is good, is power being sent to the starter when you cycle the ignition? If no, there could be a safety switch not being met or a bad starter. Scorched, or broken wires/connectors is a common occurance on a well used machine. That could be the case for the electric PTO as well. Check the wiring to the PTO.

Joel

Thanks for the reply. I am not sure of the battery--The headlights come on and the dash lights illuminate and I hear a fairly loud thunk when I turn key.
Let me ask, when I turn key to run position (the position before start), the "pto engaged" light comes on even though the pto switch is pushed in. Is this normal?

Does anyone know which pto interlock wires to check for continuity, and which terminals on starter should have power?

Thanks

 

[dqdave1]

disconnect pto wires on harness and try strater; if still does it; probably a bad starter gear/motor

 

[Fordlords]

If the PTO isn't keeping it from cranking, I would check the starter. The 2135's starter and solenoid are an assembly, it is a mechanical lever/bendix style arrangement. A few culprits can keep it from operating, mainly dirt and sometimes rust. -Fordlords-

 

[seturner]

well, I checked the battery -- 12 volts.
There are two wires on the starter, a large red and a smaller orange.
From red to ground -- 12v
from red to orange -- 12v
from orange to ground -- 0v

When I have someone in seat turning switch, the voltage from
orange to ground goes to 2.5 V and the voltage on battery terminals
goes to 4.5v.
Could this be a dead cell in battery? I have had that before on this
unit, measured voltage was fine as long as no load was applied.

I unplugged the red and blue wires from PTO and made no difference.

Does anyone have a schematic for this or similar model?

Thanks

 

[Dave01]

If it was a starter problem I would have expected a click,click,click sound rather than a thunk. With the drop in voltage you are seeing it is probably a bad battery. I'd first disconnect the battery leads, then disconnect, clean, and re-attach the starter leads and engine ground, then clean and re-attach the battery leads. If this doesn't solve it I'd try a new battery.

 

[seturner]

If it was a starter problem I would have expected a click,click,click sound rather than a thunk. With the drop in voltage you are seeing it is probably a bad battery. I'd first disconnect the battery leads, then disconnect, clean, and re-attach the starter leads and engine ground, then clean and re-attach the battery leads. If this doesn't solve it I'd try a new battery.

Thanks Dave,

I took the battery down to Azone and the test indicated to charge and retest. I left it down there for an overnight charge and will know about
battery tommorrow. I noticed during test the no-load voltage was 11.3V and during load it was under 1.0V.

 

[Fordlords]

If in doubt, and the battery is more than 4-5 years old and has not been properly stored, I would just replace it with a new one. -Fordlords-

 

[seturner]

Thanks everyone for your help!
I feel silly, but I put a new battery in and that sucker cranked right up!
I only had to turn the key one time. I guess last year when I had to turn key 5-6 times, the battery had enough power to activate solenoid, but not the starter, until I hit it just right.

Scott