Correct way to set fence posts?

[7sam15]

I am almost ashamed to ask... I need to fence approximately 1/2 acre of my property for a dog run. The area is mostly flat with a slight slope to the side fence lines. I will use treated round wood posts and a twisted wire fence (Tightlock).

What is the proper way to set the fence posts? I was planning to dig a hole with an auger slightly larger than the posts, place the post in the hole then back fill about 1/2 the hole with concrete. After it dries I will fill the remainder with dirt.

Is this a good plan? Are there alternatives?

How do you make sure that the post is vertical? Is it important?

Two of the posts are right next to my shop. Is it a problem digging a post hole close to a concrete foundation?

Does it matter that the ground is pretty wet much of the year?

I would like to rent a "postshooter" but I don’t think I can afford it at this point..

This is kind of a dry run for fencing and cross fencing the remainder of my property.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

7sam15

 

[cowboydoc]

If it's wet most of the year you're going to have a problem. I don't think the concrete will help you alot in that situation. What does it look like if you dig down 2 or 3'? Is it wet?

Assuming a person has good ground you really don't need the concrete. Basically dig your hole, I like 3', but it depends on the size of your posts. Then put a little dirt back in and use the end of a shovel or a bar and tamp the ground hard. Then put in a little more dirt and tamp hard again. Keep continuing to the top of the hole. Most people put in too much dirt at a time. You only want to do about 4" at a time.

When digging around a building I would get the electric, phone, and water comp. out to mark where everything is. You won't have a problem digging next to the foundation as long as you don't hit utilities!!! /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

You get the posts perfectly vertical with a level. Each time you put more dirt in and tamp check it with a level ON ALL SIDES. Push the post where it needs to be and continue.

Let me know what the ground is like and I can help you some more.

 

[MikePA]

I use docs method 'cept I use 2A modified limestone to fill the hole instead of the dirt I auger out. I use the tamping end of my digging iron. Get ready to exercize your abs and arms! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I also get my wife to hold the post and keep it plumb while I shovel the stone in. Make sure the hole is wide enough to get your tamping device on all sides of the post.

 

[7sam15]

Thanks for all the help to this point! With all the rain we've been having the ground is spongy and wet down to at least 3 feet. The sides of the hole maintain shape as you dig but just barely. A bit of water will collect in the bottom of the hole if you let it sit for a bit.

As the rain slows down the ground will dry out and be a bit firmer.

If it helps you visualize the area -- the house sits about mid way up a small hill. Water runs down the property towards a creek and pond about 4 acres below the house. The fenced area I am building is below the house and barn in open field. I have a rather extensive french drain system to transport water from around the buildings and down the hill.
Thanks again.
7sam15

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Not sure what level you are using, but any of the home improvement stores have levels that fasten to a post with a rubber band and provide level info for 2 sides.

If you are going to use cement (or need to have the post supported for any reason), you can drive some stakes in the ground and attach 1"X2"'s to the post and the stakes. This will hold the posts in place if you are going to use cement or if you are working alone.

Good Luck

Bob

 

[Anonymous Poster]

You can't do it wrong,unless they are not in a straight line,run a string....,unless they are not very solid,2 to 3 ft.,concreted or tamped very well,some small rock works well for this....,are not straight and level,get one of those post levels.For gate posts,use a 6 by 6,or something equal and put a bunch of concrete in the hole. RICHARD GAUTHIER

 

[rockyridgefarm]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I also get my wife to hold the post and keep it plumb while I shovel the stone in )</font>

This is the MOST important part. A wife saying the posts are plumb and in line is better than using a laser. If she's happy - who cares what the laser says...

 

[MikePA]

Amen! The fence I am putting in is for our, i.e., her /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif, horses, so if she's part of the installation process, then there will be no room for complaining...I hope. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Plus sometimes she says I am too picky.

But seriously, while using temp supports for the posts works, it's a slower process when compared to having someone else hold the post.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Mike,

You are correct about the temp supports. I used them because I cemented all my posts. It's a great way to secure while the cement is setting. I just threw it out there in case he was in a situation where he was working alone.

Bob

 

[MikePA]

Bob, good point about working alone. I hadn't considered that.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

Around here, we tamp dry ready mix around the bottem of the post (1/2 sack each) Then tamp dirt and rock over it. Sets the posts like crazy, the concrete wicks moisture from the ground and sets up real nice. If the dirt needs a little more strength, I'll mix ready mix into the dirt, too.

The posts stay straight from the start.

I usually am using Schedule 40 pipe, and just drive them in...

 

[Cacinok]

Here's a question for the board. At what length of fence would it be advisable to put in corner supports and/or stretchers (I think that's what I've heard horizontal posts placed between two vertical posts called)? I imagine it is depends on the type of fencing you are using and the terrain, but is there a rule of thumb or do you let the type of fencing and terrain dictate (along w/ length dictate)?

Clint

 

[cowboydoc]

Any fence you put in you are going to need corner braces if you want it to last at all.

 

[turnkey4099]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Here's a question for the board. At what length of fence would it be advisable to put in corner supports and/or stretchers (I think that's what I've heard horizontal posts placed between two vertical posts called)? I imagine it is depends on the type of fencing you are using and the terrain, but is there a rule of thumb or do you let the type of fencing and terrain dictate (along w/ length dictate)?

Clint )</font>

The rule is a brace (your stretcher) at any change in direction or significant change in elevation. Don't know how often on a straight flat run.

Harry K

 

[JTD]

As stated you'll need corner braces and elevation change braces. When I get fairly long level runs, say several hundred feet or more, I build double braces at the corners and line braces every 100 to 120 feet or so. Depends on the total length of the line and soil conditions throughout the year. When ever possible, I try to have equally spaced line braces. This may be overdone for woven wire fencing, but I'd rather build it solid and face fewer maintainance problems. Read some of Wroughtn Harv's (sp?) comments since he builds quality fencing for a living. Interestingly, I've seen some commercial fencers locally building woven wire fencing without the diagonal brace wire (or any other diagonal support for any of the braces). Guess they're relying on the wire to provide that support. Have to see how long they last.

 

[FamilyFarm]

I just fenced in an area 60 x 150. I set 4 corner posts, 2 gates posts all in concrete -used Fast Setting Quikrete with great results. Pour it in around post, add a little water, mix, add dirt, tamp down while keeping post level. It sets up in 15 minutes and a load can be put on it in 4 hours! A little more expensive than regular Quikrete, but I only used six bags (about $5 each).
I drove in T posts between the main posts - 25 ft spacing on the long run; 20 ft spacing on the short .

Terry