Core Aerator

paccorti · Apr 18, 2002

I think my lawn and pasture could benefit from a core aerator (to make the grass grow better). The ground seems very hard. Unfortunately core aerators seem very expensive $1,800 for a 6' Bush Hog model.

While I haven't tried everyplace, I haven't yet found a place that rents 3pt mounted core aerators (I'm in Northen VA). Does anyone know if there is a cheaper alternative? Maybe some web site to buy used equipment or perhaps something that performs a similar function to a core aerator but is not 3pt mounted (and therefore more likely to be stocked at rental yards).

Peter

Darren · Apr 18, 2002

I found a used 6' Millcreek at a "tractor" dealer in NJ that sells to municipalities, landscapers and the like. The company does rent but it's not listed under rentals. Millcreek has a website but I'm not sure if they list their dealers. I'm posting this because in my limited experience, I only know of two dealers that sell Millcreek equipment, they also rented the stuff.

I'd suggest checking the places in your area that supply equipment to landscapers. The other option is to check with the local golf course maintenance super and ask them who aerates the course. The reason I'm mentioning this is that I met a guy at a service station that had a larger Kubota on a trailer with the strangest contraption on the 3 pt I'd ever seen.

At first I though it was a spader because it was night and I couldn't see it well. It was actually an aerator that ran the spoons straight up and down into the ground so it didn't tear the turf. The implement had a lot more spoons than I've ever seen on an aerator. On top of that they were of a much smaller diameter than the ones on my Millcreek which means the extracted plugs wouldn't be as noticable.

The guy went from golf course to golf course aerating on a contract basis. I have no idea what the guy would charge but if he was in the area anyway, you might get a deal. The other thing to keep in mind is that I don't think you will get farther into the ground than 4" and that's with extra weight on the aerator and the right ground conditions.

I use the aerator to improve the action of lime on hillsides so I'm not concerned if it only goes into the ground 2".

Anonymous Poster · Apr 18, 2002

You might want to check out this site. http://www.trac-vac.com........ I bought Trac-Vac Model 364 64inch width, 3 pt hitch, 96 spoons or points can use up to eight concrete blocks for added weight. This unit works great for me. I paid approx $775.00 last year for mine.

Buck · Apr 18, 2002

Peter,

I use a cheap $199 Agrifab that is towed. Bought it from Northern. Weight is achieved by putting bricks on the top. It works just fine. Since I have a MMM, I can tow it while mowing.

I use it in the Fall. Was great for the lawn at my old house which was mainly a loamsoil and had a propensity to form a "sealing" layer in the summer - preventing rain from soaking.

I've found that Core Aerating is also a smart alternative to dethatching.

Where I live now, growing grass is not an issue. I can watch it grow and am not sure of its value.

Buck

MrP · Apr 18, 2002

Peter,

There is a place in Manassas that use to rent all kinds of 3pt equiptment. I can't remember the name at the moment, but it is on Wellington road. I'll check the phone book when I get a chance. Oh yeah, they are ususally about 1/2 the price of Byrd Tractor for a daily rental and most of their stuff is fairly new (they have only been at that location for a few years).

Sunbelt Rentals

Rch · Apr 19, 2002

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.millcreekmfg.com/index.cfm> Millcreek site</A>

kevincook · Apr 19, 2002

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://carverequipment.com>http://carverequipment.com</A> sent me a quote and picture of a First Choice aerator that looks pretty good. You may want to send them an e-mail and get a price.

bubenberg · Apr 19, 2002

spring is the best time to look for a used aerator. the lawncare industry sells that service more toward the fall, so move over to lawnsite.com, just this once and either post what you want or look under used equipment search, whenever i cant find something, or do not care to buy retail that is the place i go for bargains.

paccorti · Apr 21, 2002

As usual TBN comes though. Thanks for all the suggestions. I did find that THEROS in Gainsville rents a 6' aerator for $100 per day.

Thanks everyone,

Peter

MrP · Apr 22, 2002

Peter,

Wanna split the rental? I live about 15 miles from Theros. You could rent it bring it over here, I'll use it quick (I have 5 acres to to) and you could take it for the rest of the day.

Your TC35D is about the same size as my L3410 so anything you rent would be compatable with my tractor.

paccorti · Apr 22, 2002

MrP,

I'll give it some thought. Unfortunately, I think my 10 acres would take me the better part of a day (at least it does mowing). As my weekends are pretty full, let me check back with you in a couple of weeks (soonest I can get to this). Where do you live?

Peter

MrP · Apr 22, 2002

Peter,

I live in Nokesville. It is about 15 miles east of Theros.

Theros is closed on Sunday, usually if you rent for Saturday, they don't reqire it to be returned until Monday morning.

E-mail me and we can discuss.

BeeBop · Apr 23, 2002

Peter, I can't help but think that for all general purposes you'd be much better suited to rent a Woods super turf renovator, remember the super part. You may see this @ http://www.woodsonline.com. I have tried more cores and every type of aerator than I care to speak of but when it comes right down to it nothing grows grass very well if the ground isn't mangled. I rent this unit I am referring to and it does the best job I have seen thus far. You didn't indicate as to what type of soil you have. Varoius types of soil require various types of programs to grow grass, I.e Fertilizer type/application, lime and other variables as well.

paccorti · Apr 23, 2002

BeeBop,

Thanks for the advice. You may well be right. I have basically two situations.

1. The ground around the house has been hydroseeded but the grass did not take well everywhere. Furthermore the ground is very hard in most of these bare areas. The few areas that do have grass also have a lot of weeds.

2. The rest of the yard is old pasture land. While the grass is not silky smooth, it is green and from a distance looks ok.

In the pasture and around the house the earth is a light tan color and tends to be very hard when dry. I'm not looking for a golf course perfect type lawn. Too much work, too much water and too much $ I'm afraid... I do want it to look green with the really obnoxious weeds somewhat under control (weeds that are really tall or substantially different looking than grass). The really nasty weeds don't grow in the pasture much. I guess they are choked by the grass /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.

So I figured the core aerator would help with situation 1 and couldn't hurt with situation 2. In the process of making the pasture grass better, I don't want to destroy the current grass that is there. Will the turf renovator destroy the existing grass that I have? I can see that it would be better for situation 1. When you say "mangled" what do you mean exactly?

Thanks for your help,

Peter

bubenberg · Apr 24, 2002

there is only one thing to say about you doing all this work in spring, the grass seedling will during the sunny month develop lots of leaf growth and the root system in case of summer recess (mini drought) during the month of july and august will more likely not withstand the shock.

my recommendation is to seed first a mixture of annual rye (as protection to the new slower growing grass) and depending on your region the best grass mixture possible. then aerate in several different directions a minimum of two passages.

here on the east cost an average of 33% survives the summer recess unless you have irrigation and intense fert program. if you seed in fall you have a better chance and much higher success rate. as fall comes the plant works on developing a rigorous root system. just because the grass looks dead does not mean it is.

traffic on frocen grass, especially new grass should be kept to a minimum for that reason.

BeeBop · Apr 25, 2002

I would probably wait until fall and put my seed out as the hot months will kill your new grass if it's not watered daily. I wouldn't worry about existing grass already there if you're going to put out new seed. If it were me I'd use a cultivator and tiller and rip the place up killing all weeds then use whatever seed I desired be it Watersaver, Triple A , true colors so on an so on. I like fescue. the super renovator will not kill whats there but when set aggresively it will make for good seeding.

bubenberg · Apr 25, 2002

seeding addendum, i forget to give you some timespans of the rye grass germination and does and don'ts, but it was too early this morning.

seeding in spring will interfere in many regions of the US with the crabgrass control and other weed control applications.

the ryegrass germination is from 10-14 days in spring in the mid atlantic region, check with your ag extension agent of your county or parish (pour le francais a la louisiane).

we, if we have to seed, prepare the area to be seeded very well to establish a better chance for what they call a seed-to soil contact, this will further a more rapid germination ( you do not want the seedling to have to fight. for our region the rate is around 4.5-8.5 lbs/for 1000 sq.ft. in the direct sun.

in case you have a shady area (where crabgrass won't be able to grow, you will get away with 5lbs/1000 sq. feet.

Anonymous Poster · Apr 27, 2002

there is a new First Choice Brand 3 point hitch 5 ft core aeriator running on Ebay today--I think the reserve is $595--I am not sure when the auction ends?? I am hearing a lot of good things about that brand and good pricing similiar to Landpride in quality and looks